3 pt Sickle bar mower

[kspring61]

Looking at a good way to cut the edges of my fields (under tree branches). Would a 7 ft 3pt sickle bar be the thing to use? Will it cut small bushes/trees that are up to an inch diameter? Tired of having to duck around branches and having branches tear up my signal indicators on the fenders but would like to keep the underbrush and grass cut back on the edges.

 

[seville009]

It will, but it will be slow going.

An alternative that i have done is to use a brush hog and back it into the field edges (under the trees). Also takes awhile, but it will do a better job thsn the sickle bar.

With the sickle bar, I would leave the cuttings on the ground and then go around with the brush hog to grind them up.

 

[LouNY]

A sickle bar will reach under nicely. If you get one with a wobble drive and not a pitman arm then can mow while in the vertical position.
When somewhat gentle use I have scissored through 1 1/2" limbs, green ones not dead and dry.

 

[Ghost River Retrievers]

A sickle bar mower would work great for that. I bought a 9' New Holland 451 to trim around my lake and found that trimming under the branches is a nice side-benefit. You may think about a 9 footer ... the extra 2 feet may be useful.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Looking at a good way to cut the edges of my fields (under tree branches). Would a 7 ft 3pt sickle bar be the thing to use? Will it cut small bushes/trees that are up to an inch diameter? Tired of having to duck around branches and having branches tear up my signal indicators on the fenders but would like to keep the underbrush and grass cut back on the edges.

If you can run it, go for the nine footer.

 

[Smokeydog]

Used the MF high speed wobble box 7’ to mow hay and maintain boarders. Hitting a dead stem from a previous cut could damage a blade. Still had to chainsaw bigger and higher stuff. Could see and extra 2’ helpful sometimes but easier to hang up on.

Reach up grab with Danuser Intimdator and tear branches off works. Now going around with hydraulic polesaw. Instantly cuts
Always be careful. Hazardous work.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

NH 451 here, and it's probably the best of the sickle mowers made, mine just keeps on keeping on!

Sickle mowers don't take much power to run, but you need a tractor heavy enough tractor to offset that bar sticking out there.

SR

 

[Farmer495]

It will work, slow going but it will slice bigger stuff even though it's not made for it. 1" would be pushing it, but it should handle one or two at time, no way would you be able to mow a field of bushes that size without breakage.

 

[HayFarmer]

I have an International 1300, wobble drive. I don't intentionally but saplings with it but it does happen. Snap of a section now and then. Good to have bolt on sections.

 

[Boeing]

Came close to buying a sickle bar last year to cut tall weeds/briars along road. I re-evaluated when I realized that every 4-10 ' was a tree, big or little and would have to be constantly raising and lowering the bar. And the breakage history. My advice to you, having my own fields being encroached on by fast growing locusts, maples, poplars etc is to get a pole saw or even carry "lopers" on your tractor and cut those limbs sticking out catching your turn sigs.
Also, as a poster suggested, back your bush hog under the trees......slow but very effective. Think long and hard before you spend money on a sickle bar requiring lots of maintenance. Their made for fields of hay....not saplings or limbs.

 

[bgr]

You should also look at flail mowers which can offset to the side and cut vertically. Chinese ones are cheapest. Italians better and a little more $$$.

 

[bearthebruce]

We have a NH 451 (if memory serves). Would entertain an offer. We are not using it. It needs a little love but we know it was working 4 years ago. We moved it indoors. Interested? PM me and we'll go from there.

 

[beenthere]

The sickle bar will be great to keep it maintained, once you have cleared out the 1" and larger brush, bushes, and trees. i.e. get it cleared first and then maintain the annual growth.

 

[BlueBerry Farmer]

I find They will handle the odd sapling of that size ok but not not in any intensity. Also the sickle bar mower will not mulch if that's important.

 

[RolandW]

My recollection of sickle mowers is from about 50 years ago. It worked great for cutting alfalfa, which was what we used exclusively for hay back then on the dairy farm. Also good for clipping pastures, my least favorite job during the dog days of summer. But it had a hard time cutting through thick grass, and sharpening/replacing sections was a never-ending chore. The inherent offset is definitely a plus.
Edit: I definitely would not have attempted cutting 1" diameter brush with the one we had, but perhaps there are modern ones that can do it.

 

[Vigo327]

I've never used one but as someone who fixes their own stuff i cringe at the thought of how often i'd have to 'unf$#@' a sickle mower using it like that..

I would trust a 'ditch mower' such as an offset flail mower more, as far as durability.

I think if you want to use the sickle mower I would do what others have recommended and clean up the bigger stuff first, whether you do it manually with saws/loppers, backing up a bush hog, or just paying someone else. A skid steer with a front-mounted brush cutter would probably do the fastest job of it.

 

[Smokeydog]

We had two knife blades and could swap out in case a section broke to keep mowing hay. Cutting the perimeter last as that is where most damage could occur. Got pretty proficient at changing sections using rivets with the right tools and technique. The end double toothed section blade always seemed to get the most damage. Parts aren’t as common as they once were. Some brands very expensive.
Remember when the sickle bar mowers did the road ditch banks? Not anymore. In Europe they have special heavy cutters for the hedge rows.