30 Amp fuse keeps blowing

[SevenCorners]

Good info, thanks I am leaning towards getting a new ignition switch. I don't like the cheap feel of the current one. David has some very good advice. I have printed out this post and will use it if there is a next time.

 

[GRUMPA]

SevenCorners,

I dont know if you have this info yet but here it is anyway.
Ford Keyswitch E7NN11N501AB
(Wire Terminal change is required)
Alternate #C7NN11501AB
I would consider changing it BEFORE there is a problem since it seems they arent all that great to begin with.

 

[SevenCorners]

Well same problem this morning. Ran it around the property no problem till I shut it down. Same thing main fuse 30 amp blown, power at terminal on fuse block even after key is off. Greg does this sound like key switch problem? Can I get key switch locally?

 

[SevenCorners]

I want to add a little more info. I spent a couple of more hours troubleshooting, I took the blown fuse out of the 30amp holder, I measure accross the holder with ignition off, 12.3v. I then measured off the load side [right faceing engine] and got 12.3v. with ignition off.

This seems correct since it is a direct feed from the battery via the starter. It is wire #(2) in the wiring diagram found here Wiring Diagram

Wire # (3) goes out of the fuse block and into the ampmeter, I have the one instrument cluster. I have a plug where 3 plugs into wire # (5) and (4). Wire (5) goes into the ignition switch. Wire (4) goes into the alternator.
David took wire (5) off ignition and ran a wire direct from source with a inline 30amp fuse. He connected this to the ignition switch. I am thinking about trying this tomorrow. David you also said you connected the two wires together </font><font color="blue" class="small">( I disconnected the ampmeter, and connected the two wires together with a small bolt, and taped it up good. )</font> Were they the two wires on the back of the instument cluster? Please see picture
I am still leaning toward the ignition switch as the culprit. I ordered one today it won't be here till next week, any thoughts here on what sounds like the problem? Greg does this sound like "classic" ignition switch failure?

Thanks

 

[JohnS]

Don't dispare. Most issues are found within the first 25hrs of use. After that, it seems like they get in a groove, and only need normal maintenance.

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Greg does this sound like key switch problem? Can I get key switch locally?)</font>
Whether or not it actually resolves your specific problem, a Ford switch is $13 well spent. Once installed, it should be good for the life of the tractor. If the fuse problem persists, at least you KNOW that it's not the cheap Jinma switch. My guess is that a new ignition switch should fixya rightup

And yes. Those switches have been used on Fords at least since the 50s. Any decent farm store should have them on a peg, saving you big bucks over getting one from NewHolland.

//greg//

 

[bluechip]

Gavin,
I think Dave is talking about individual gages, not the cluster. You may have a defective cluster panel or ignition switch. Since it happens when you shut down I bet on the switch, you can ohm it out to see if there is a short. Since it is mounted in fiberglass, I'm not sure how it gets to ground, as far as I recall none of the terminals on the switch should be grounded.

 

[Harrygoodwrench]

I would just like to add my input. Here it is........the ammeter would not likely be the culprit as this type device would either be a dead short or an open but not likely intermittant. the key switch IS a likely intermittant culprit due to is movable contacts.
With that said there is one more remote possibility........you are aware the engine will/should continue running once started with no battery voltage. The glow plugs are energized on this type china switch only "just before" the cranking position. Now if the ignition switch was keeping the glow plugs energized after you let key go this could also blow fuse. Hopefully if this is the case it has not burned out the glow plugs, but then agian if glow plugs burned out the fuse would stop blowing and a hard start would be the concern. . What I leading to is if the switch is keeping current going to the glow plugs the fuse will open or glow plugs??? Catch my drift? Again the switch is defective. The new design Ford switch keeps the glow plugs energized in crank also so this will help in starting in cold weather. I still have the china switch but wired in a realy so the key switch only controls the glow plugs via a small current thru the realy, added a push button switch for manual operation(gets real cold in Northeast in winter). Different strokes, different folks.
With all this said the key switch sounds like the part you need unless there is a wire shorting as when hitting a bump.

 

[DavidBradley]

7, I do have the individual gauges as someone posted. But to answer your question and maybe help with your problem, disconnecting those two wires in the picture from the terminals and connecting them together with a small bolt and nut would be the same thing I did. Someone posted about ampmeters not having intermittent shorts, well mine did. I disconnected wires and replaced fuses for a while. Since disconnecting the ampmeter, I have put about 30 hrs on it with no more blown fuses. If you are concerned about the switch, get, or make some jumper wires, disconnect all the wires to the switch, hot wire it, and see if you still have the problem, if so then you can replace the switch, or you can replace it anyway. My tractor doesnt seem to need the glow plugs in the warm weather. So that is not a factor with me now. I have about 20 or so 30Amp fuses slightly used, that I will mail you for free if you need them. Now can some one tell me what light bulbs to use to keep the cheap taillight lens from melting. The Homier service rep said they have fix for it that routes the cooling system back to the lights to keep them cool. You got to have a sense of humor to be a customer rep for a company that sells these tractors to people like me. Don't worry 7, it will all work out. Excepting for the gauges, these tractors really dont need much wiring. If you have a riding mower, they dont have fuel, Amp, Oil, tach, temp, meters. And are basically the same. You sit on the seat, put the key in, start the engine and go. Now I really wouldnt want to run my tractror without the temp and oil, meters and the tach. Keep on trying, you'll eventually find the intermittent short. Sorry for the long post, but nothing much to do while a hurricane is going by. If I can help you just ask, many on this board have help me with some of my problems.

Dave

 

[SevenCorners]

Thanks for the replys. This is really a great board. I ordered the key switch shipped ground so it will be early next week. Probably good money spent, hopefully will correct problem if not at least I can eliminate it. For now I needed to start the tractor so I jumped the starter selonid. I am right in assuming that a deisel only needs electricity for the starter, unlike a gas which requires constant juice for spark?