30 Amp fuse keeps blowing

[bluechip]

Yes, just needs fuel and air once it starts. Be very careful starting that way! first check to be sure its out of gear, then before you do anything be sure its out of gear. Best to have someone sit on the tractor with a foot on the clutch, did I mention to be sure it is out of gear?
Even experienced guys run themselves over, so please be careful.

 

[Harrygoodwrench]

Seven corners, I have the same 224 as yours with the integrated gauges. When I said the ammeter was an "unlikely" culprit thats exactly what I meant. I never said it could not be. As far as the ammeter,,,,,,,,well I don't use mine period. I installed a higher output GM 10 SI (60 amp) alt to replace the 29 or so Jinma alt due to my electro-hydraulic snow plow set-up which the Jinma alt could't handle. Well, a 30 amp gauge can't handle 60 amps so I did as dave did(bypassed it and just put a voltmeter gauge from a parts store under the dash. Hey it works and is a inexpensive item.
Yes, you are correct. No electricity is needed once you get your diesel running(no lights,etc on). Although, once the battery gets too low without charging it may not start.

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Now can some one tell me what light bulbs to use to keep the cheap taillight lens from melting. )</font>
LED bulbs Dave. But since they don't generate heat, they don't burn out like incandescents.

Don't remember for sure, but aren't your rear bulbs this

wedge type?

//greg//

 

[Lenarguy]

Seven,
Please, if you jump the solenoid use extreme caution! Best if you have someone on the clutch and brake as Chip said. My neighbor, 74 years old, lifelong farmer was killed this summer when his tractor ran over him. He had been jump starting the solenoid for 4 years, it was in gear and he didn't have a chance. PLEASE be careful if you are going to do that, I recommend that you at least rig it so you can operate the jumper from the seat. A remote starter button from a local discount parts supply would be a good inventment.

 

[SevenCorners]

Well I got my new starter switch the other day and put it in today. Greg I got to hand it to you, you nailed it. It was the starter switch, must have been shorting internally. New one was very easy to install and no more blown fuses!!!

Thanks for all who replied.

 

[SevenCorners]

Alright this is totally frustrating me! Its back.... a little different symptoms but still some type of electrical short. Now all of the switches and gauges do not work. The starter does engage and turns over the engine. I blew the main 30amp fuse once, put in a new one and so far after 2 starts and 15 minutes of work no blow, but all the switches, lights, horn and gauges do not work. Is anyone thinking the instument cluster?

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Is anyone thinking the instument cluster? )</font>
Not me. The problem sounds to be at a higher level than at the cluster. I'd be inclined to recheck the wiring on your new ignition switch. First guess is that the wire (6) connected to the RUN post [2] has come loose. It probably blew a fuse coming off, and is now just dangling there - waiting to short out again.

//greg//

 

[SevenCorners]

Greg,
I rechecked all the wiring to the switch, none was lose or exposed, I put crimps on with shrink tubing connections are tight, I too thought about #6 wire seems like a logical spot, I have 12V when switch is turned on on the post but still no lights horn ect...

 

[SevenCorners]

I have a second wire attached to number 6 with a wire connector, any one else have the same? I don't know what it's for I just left it alone thinking maybe its the cig lighter....

 

[greg_g]

There is no reason for there to be more than one wire between the ignition switch and the fuse box. The one and only purpose of wire (6) is to provide switched 12v between the 30A system fuse and the individual fused circuits. Additional circuits can be wired into the spare circuit positions, or fused off the ignition switch accessory post (#4). Power to the glow plugs comes from the 30A system fuse.

Since you don't specify, I'd assume that pigtail doesn't go anywhere. It may be shorting against something, and should be safe to remove.

The reason I say it has to be a higher level problem, is that the horn/headlights/instruments/brake lights/signal lights/side markers are divided among four individually fused circuits. For them to ALL not work would mean
1. all individual circuit fuses are blown, or
2. the 30A system fuse is blown, or
3. there's no 12V supplying the 30A system fuse, or
4. there's no switched 12v being supplied to the fuse box

Since you said there are no more blown fuses, that pretty much narrows it down to #3 or #4. If your glow plugs work, that rules out #3.

//greg//