30x40x10 pole barn price quote

[KennyG]

The added loft area makes a 12' wall an automatic for me. Otherwise, you'll have a headroom problem. If you think you may heat it and will not want to put in a ceiling below the trusses (because of the loft), you definitely want the roof insulated when they build it.

I don't quite understand your dimensional spacing. You said 8' on center for the posts, but you are putting 3 9' wide doors in the side wall. You are going to end up with a kind of odd pole spacing at this rate.

A thought on purlins. Look at the two tone buildings with a lower "wainscote" section. Makes the building look much higher end for very little increase in cost. If you might want this, add an extra set of purlins at the appropriate height.

 

[KennyG]

Sorry, just re-read it and realize you are putting an actual attic in with 7/12 pitch roof. Wow! I think the price is pretty reasonable considering the features in this structure.

That said, I think I might stay with the 10 foot walls. However, consider having the contractor add a metal interior liner ceiling (will add about $1000 to $1500 to the cost), and blow in cellulose before adding the attic floor. I wouldn't worry about insulating the roof as long as you don't intend to heat the attic. Just make sure you have good eave ventilation and a full length ridge vent on the roof.

 

[mattingly2300]

I just changed my doors to 9x8, 9x8, and 10x9 with a 10x9 on the opposite side so i can pull the truck straight through this is changing originally from (4) 9x9s.

I also just changed my two 3x3 windows to 3x4s and he kept the price the same

He stated the bubble double would go in between the metal roof and the roof purlins during installation. I'm starting to strongly lean towards doing this for the extra $1500. I am currently picturing my JD tractor which is parked in a metal shed that has wide open eaves and coming out in the morning only to find water dripped all over it from condensation build up on the inside of the metal roof. Granted its just a slanted metal roof with no ridge vent and that is probably why. But i would also think in the summer that wrap will stop some (probably not alot) of heat from going through that roof and making my loft an instant inferno.

He is looking into the price of raising it two feet and will get back to me he estimates $1500 - $2000 more. While that doesnt sound like alot, im inching quickly up to $30k which i really do not want to do.

I did clear up the soffit issue. There will be a continous vented soffit all the way around the eaves on all four sides. This is part of the original estimate but was not on the paperwork. Is is now I do not need any bird friends landing on my cars.

Will keep you guys posted.

 

[toolbox5]

Did you look at DIY pole buildings ? You can pick your size and everything , cheapest prices i've seen , they are out of Ohio . My boss had them put his up very nice building !:thumbsup:

 

[grsthegreat]

I hope you are getting multiple bids..at least 3 of them.

I built my 30x40x12 for $10,000 + an additional 2,500 for the slab about 10 years ago. I know the prices have risen...but 25K seems alot.

4 years ago (during construction BOOM) I built a 30x60x12 with a 12x20 lean-to, 12 windows, 2 roll up 16' doors and one set of slider doors. this ran about $32,000 complete with slab.

right now construction cost are at a 10 year low.

 

[TBarD]

I hope you are getting multiple bids..at least 3 of them.

I built my 30x40x12 for $10,000 + an additional 2,500 for the slab about 10 years ago. I know the prices have risen...but 25K seems alot.

4 years ago (during construction BOOM) I built a 30x60x12 with a 12x20 lean-to, 12 windows, 2 roll up 16' doors and one set of slider doors. this ran about $32,000 complete with slab.

right now construction cost are at a 10 year low.

Pricing a pole building myself now; I don't think this right. Real estate is at a 10 year low, but building materials are much more expensive. This is why we see all the posts about people stealing copper pipes etc. for sale as scrap. Ditto for lumber and roof/siding steel. Has something to do with deficits and printing dollars...

 

[Diamondpilot]

While you may not have heavy equipment it may be worth going to 12 feet as it could help when you sell the place. May not be a consideration at this time but could make or break a sales deal in the future.

Skip the 12' and go 14'. Biggest mistake I made was building my 52x44 building only 12' high.

Can not get my neighbors Case Backhoe in it to work on, can not get one of my boats in it, can not get my travel trailer I had in it. Go 14', you will be glad you did. You can build a loft along the side or rear wall for tons of storage and its by far the cheapest sq ft you can get. Not all campers and such will even fit through a 12' door.

Also, make sure your slab is thick enough for a future lift. Lifts are cheap now day, $1500 or so, and many are adding them. 10' ceiling will make this not possible with most SUV's and Trucks on the lift but no matter what you need a slab that can support it.

Chris

 

[yanmars]

I think you would prefer the bubble wrap to cut down on condensation. I did not install it and have regretted it for two years. I got a deal on rigid 3 inch foam 4x8 insulation at less than $3 a sheet, over 100 sheets.
I cut it and installed it between the nailers. It took me all winter to do that however. I would have been better time wise etc. to have had the wrap done originally but at least this way I have more R value I guess except the sidewalls are not insulated so it does not mean much except it does not rain inside anymore.

 

[mattingly2300]

I have gotten more than one bid. I already discussed morton. I would be WAY over what i have now if i let them do it. Not even close. I also talked to some local builders, one of whom did not even want to give me a paper estimate. That equaled "good day sir" from me. I could get this building built for 14k with no loft, no concrete, two less doors, no insulated doors, no extra concrete work under my back deck, and no site work or prep work. Labor is expensive. I realize fully you could get a kit and do this yourself for much less. Im not in a position to do this myself, timewise, helpwise, or i admit knowledge wise. So if i want it done buying a kit and doing it myself is not an option. So the prices for DIY kits do not really apply here. I don't think this is the deal of the century however i really don't think it is completely outrageous either. I see alot of people from the midwest seem to get these things built for much cheaper. In NY i'm not seeing alot of super cheap barns finished in this manner and this size. Maybe i am wrong.

Still debating 10ft high vs 12 ft high. He estimates 1,500 more for the extra height. I did decide to go with the double bubble wrap to avoid the condensation issues in the future. I really do not want to deal with that dripping on my equipment and cars. 14ft for me is really overdoing it. There will never be a lift in this garage as long as i live here. Now i admit the next person may want one. But the next person may want a yard lined with gold and four in-ground pools too. They can pay for that. You never get 100% of your $ back when you make improvements to a house. If i run this barn up over 30K there is no way i can add 30K to the house and sell it. So i have to choose wisely. I agree the 12ft would be preferred but im still not sold. Basically i would have to upgrade the doors from nine foot to ten foot high to make the 12ft use full and they are insulated so there is more $ as well. So i have to think this through.

I appreciate all the input and i look forward to more suggestions.

Thankyou

 

[mattingly2300]

grsgreat,

Did you build that yourself? That takes a huge cost out of any building. Also the 2,500K in concrete you paid is not a ton less than the 3000K i will pay now in todays dollar for additional concrete pad and apron and at today's over $4 a gallon gas price to truck the stuff here.

However i do like your price over mine