3110d rear wheel spacing

[jimb111]

I have some fairly steep inclines (Approximately 25 degrees), which I need to navigate horizontally. The rear wheels are reversed but can the spacing be further increased by other methods. Thanks for your advice.

 

[Onthesauk]

Do a search. There have been some good posts on custom spacers to get a few more inches. Some very nice solutions!

 

[DavidT2]

Jim,
I have a 3110D as well. and there are two different wheel sizes listed for that tractor in the parts book. One is a 26" rim and the other is a 28". On my tractor, I have the 28" rim with welded brackets on the rim, which allows for 4 different wheel spacings for the bolt-on wheel hub. The hub is dished several inches, so by reversing the hub you have a total of 8 different track combinations. The outermost spacing is about 16-18" wider than the most narrow. You will need a big breaker bar to loosen the rim bolts. I apologize if you already know this information.
I have some big hills on my land and setting the rear wheel track to the widest position was the first thing that I did after receiving my tractor. Be very careful traversing hills horizontally. Consider getting a ROPS for your tractor, if you do not have one. They are now available for the 3110D.

 

[jimb111]

Thanks David. I have just finished installing a ROPS and guages on my 3110d and I will try to evaluate my wheels tomorrow. I did not know about the different wheel spacing which you described and I very much appreciate the info. I hope they are the same as yours and I will also max out the spacing.
Thanks again.
Jim B.

 

[kenmac]

I have a 3110D . I also moved my rears all the way out & turned my fronts out. I redrilled my fenders so that they would cover the tires moved out this far. ROPS are great I would suggest that every one purchase them for their tractor.

 

[DavidT2]

You are welcome, Jim. I am glad that I could help.
I have been thinking of installing a set of gauges on my tractor, too, especially since the radiator screen will occasionally clog up while bushhogging fields with tall, dry grass. The only space available on my tractor is the panel below the steering wheel, which is nearly vertical and the gauges would not be readily visible. Where did you mount your gauges? And which ones did you install - water temperature, oil pressure, and battery voltage?
David T.

 

[DavidT2]

Ken,
I have heard cautions about moving the front wheels out as this could cause excessive loads on the front wheel bearings. So, I only moved the rears out on mine. Have you had any problems with moving the fronts out on your tractor? Do you have any information on this practice for Yanmar tractors?
Thanks.
David T.

 

[Eddie]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Ken,
I have heard cautions about moving the front wheels out as this could cause excessive loads on the front wheel bearings. So, I only moved the rears out on mine. Have you had any problems with moving the fronts out on your tractor? Do you have any information on this practice for Yanmar tractors?
Thanks.
David T. )</font>

I've had my fronts moved out for 3 years now with no problems at all. I have not heard of anyone that has had a problem with it. You could have the same argument against moving rear wheels out since they have bearings and it could create more strain on them. I think it's just an "OLD WIVES TALE." /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[pruntyc]

Eddie, I understand from all I have read that the rule of not changing the fronts was right from the Yanmar company, not just something someone made up. And Len says one of the insurance companies a few years ago, proved the front wheels had nothing to do with at what point they would roll over, it was all in the rear wheels. Even the tricycle wheels didn't do any worse than the wide front end, in the test they showed. I'm not an expert in that area, so I really don't know, just repeating what I have read.

 

[Mickey_Fx]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(

I've had my fronts moved out for 3 years now with no problems at all. I have not heard of anyone that has had a problem with it. You could have the same argument against moving rear wheels out since they have bearings and it could create more strain on them. I think it's just an "OLD WIVES TALE." /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif )</font>

Not a wives tale but it does depend upon the bearing used. Design on typ US model auto has one large and one small bearing. The stk offset on the wheel keeps the load mostly on the bigger bearing. If one were to offset the wheels towards the outside, more of the load would be placed over the smaller bearing thus reducing life of that bearing.

Now the design of a tractor is different. Changing spacing on the rear wheels is intended and the design acommodates the change in bearing loads. The front is a different situation. If we're talking 4 wheel drive the bearings are not the same as with 2 wheel drive. Can they handle the change in offset load, sure but for how long?? Also these gray market tractors rarely have a FEL on them in their home country but we think nothing of putting one on them as soon as they get here. We don't hear people that are having their front ends fail quickly due to the increased loading so we must not be exceeding the design loads or not by much on a reg basis. Reverse the wheels, add a FEl, carry a lot of weight, who knows how soon we may start having problems??

IMO it boils down to we don't know much about the design limits of our machines and we may or may not see any problems if and when we use them in ways not intended by the mfgr. These little Yanmars are tuff.

 

[Eddie]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Eddie, I understand from all I have read that the rule of not changing the fronts was right from the Yanmar company, not just something someone made up. And Len says one of the insurance companies a few years ago, proved the front wheels had nothing to do with at what point they would roll over, it was all in the rear wheels. Even the tricycle wheels didn't do any worse than the wide front end, in the test they showed. I'm not an expert in that area, so I really don't know, just repeating what I have read. )</font>

A few years ago professional tractor pullers had to go from tricycle front ends to wide front ends because they were more stable. US Government stopped the manufacture of all 3 wheel ATV's and made them go to 4 wheel because 3 wheels were easier to roll over. I've owned and operated tractors with both and I can tell you from experience that to me narrow front ends are not as stable.

I didn't change mine because of the stability factor, I have a trailer I haul mine on that has an open center. The tractor would just barely hit the edges with the wheels narrowed, it sits on it good with them widened. I guess I'll find out more since I put the FEL on mine. Extra weight out wide should be a good test the wheel bearings.

I'm not trying to argue just going from past experiences.

 

[jimb111]

Hi David,
I moved the rear wheels out to max this weekend and now feel much more comfortable on the slopes. I am seriously considering loading the rears for a little more stability and not sure whether to use Calcium Chloride or washer fluid.
I installed the Sunpro electrical white face water Temperature and Oil pressure gauges on the vertical panel under the steering wheel (Just above the Power shift lever) and the viewing angle from the seat is perfect. This required drilling four holes in the panel to mount the gauges and I ran the wiring through the uppermost center panel retaining screw hole and left the screw out. That left four screws holding the panel in place, which is plenty.
The oil pressure kit came with the proper adapter to fit the engine case but had to make a return trip to AutoZone to get the adapter kit for the temperature-sending unit.
The temperature runs a steady 180 degrees after warm up. The oil pressure runs 65# cold and approximately 55# at working RPMs and warm. Pressure at warm idle (800 RPM) is 25#. I installed a ROPs, did a complete paint job (Massey Ferguson red) on all the sheet metal a couple of weeks back, installed a Massey Ferguson red canopy from mower@mowercanopies.com this weekend and I am happy with the results.
The tractor has a new Koyker 160 loader and now looks almost new.

 

[DavidT2]

Hi Jim, thanks for the comeback.
When I was referring to the lack of visibility of viewing the gauges mounted on the vertical panel under the steering wheel, I meant that the gauges would be mounted in holes in the panel. It sounds like you mounted a right angle gauge bracket to the vertical panel, is that correct? If so, did you enclose the backside of the gauge bracket to keep trash out and to give some protection to the gauges?
Thanks for the information on water temperatures and oil pressures while running. This will be good to know when I get my gauges installed.

 

[jimb111]

David, I totally understand your lack of visibility if you were to cut holes in the panel for mounting the gauges. There would be no visibility unless you stood on your head. The gauges I mounted have 90 degree lips with holes for mounting purposes which worked perfectly for the panel. There is no need to fabricate a bracket but it does require drilling two very small starter screw holes for each gauge in the panel. The wires can be bundled into a neat little harness with ties and routed through the panel center mounting hole. I don’t know how well the gauges are sealed from dust or moisture but if that were a concern, a coating of electrical sealant could be sprayed onto the rear and I don’t believe you would ever have a problem. I keep my tractor in the barn so rain/moisture is not a concern.
You will not hit your knees on them and they do not impede the gear shift. This is not a perfect setup but it is very functional.
I did not see enough space on the instrument panel to mount the gauges therefore this was the default position.
It is easy if you decide to do the gauges.
The gauges I used are Sunpro CP8201 and CP8202 and this is a good website where you can look them over. http://www.tradervar.com/gauges.htm
Later-

 

[DavidT2]

Thanks, Jim.

I sent you a PM.

David

 

[kenmac]

David , I checked this out with some other people b -4 I did this . All said I shouldn't have any problems moving the fronts out.