336D injectors

[Vern]

I was wondering the same myself.

 

[kenmac]

Now the problem is solved ( hopefully) & you can be up & running with almost all new stuff

 

[grainger12002]

spot on with the bent rod tip from Bruce ! Its great to have this resource board to share and discuss in this case..Yanmars. Great work Vern ! starting fluid is tough, could certainly bend a rod

 

[bruce1966us]

From the look of the combustion chamber for #2 it has had water in there. That will surely bend a rod.

 

[yanmars]

If there was water in there it cannot be compressed and something would have to give, a rod is a possiblity.

 

[Car Doc]

Front - 3.292 under the rings
3.294 up from the skirt

Middle - 3.296 top
3.294 bottom

Rear - 3.294 top
3.296 bottom

Looks to me like I need a connecting rod, bearings and rings.

Yup that would cause a miss for sure ouch a bit much ether probably or h20.

According to my 336 book there is something strange about the measurements you gave though is it possible you skipped over the .5 on the mic? The pistons would be worn out if that was the case. The way I read it you would have over .020" skirt clearance if the bore was std with no wear and thats not realistic so add some there too.

The new part spec is 3.5379-3.5391 and wear limit is 3.535. They are consistent so thats a good sign but <.245" is a lot of difference between your measurements and the book so I dont know what to tell ya there thats almost like the wrong engine if my book is right (wouldn't be the first book that was wrong) thats a huge difference?

Check the bore size with inside mic or use a feeler gage and see how much clearance there is probably what I would do. Calls for .007-.009" new and .020" wear limit that seems like an error too thats a lot of slop on a 3.5" piston but thats what it says.

And then when the rings get there stick one in the bore and push it down with a piston and measure the end gap ( .010-.020") that will tell you if the parts are right at least. Check the side groove clearance anyway (.001-.002") (.010" wear limit) and look for cracks otherwise the pistons should be ok unless the pin or pin bore in #2 is damaged. :thumbsup:

Now the bad news cranks always bend in automotive applications when there is water in the cyls. I can only imagine ether would be similar but it may not since what bent the rod was an explosion at the wrong time in the stroke rather than an un-compressable material in there. You may be in luck though in another thread a guy rolled his CCY and tried to start it right away and it was locked up from oil on top of the pistons. I told him he had a bent rod and he did it was as bad as yours. I mentioned how to check run out in the flywheel or balancer which would indicate the shaft wasn't straight and his turned out good and it ran fine so there is hope!

 

[Vern]

Car Doc

How would I check the run out on the crank? I will recheck the piston measurement this evening.

One more questions - How do I find out which front end I have, new style or Old style?

Thanks

 

[Car Doc]

Vern,

The flywheel is the best place since its farthest from CL but its also hardest to get at unless you pull the starter even then will be tough. Check it with a dial indicator same with the balancer.

The guy with the CCY had minimal runout less than a .001" if I remember on the balancer me and him both felt good his was ok and it was. He said it ran just like new no vibration in the clutch at all which bent cranks will do is vibrate there in your foot.

I have seen quite a few bent cranks and every one had a hitch in its rotation I could feel in a breaker bar/socket on the crank bolt. Id start with that see how smooth it turns over and if shes real smooth you also may be in luck and I think you will be anyway but time will tell. :thumbsup:

I dont know on that sorry but I think rScotty is the guy to ask on the 336 parts he knows about the 336 probably better than most guys on here. I see he has posted in another thread so he is around. hth :thumbsup:

edit:btw dont forget to check the back of the bearings or mic it to make sure someone didn't turn the crank at some point in time and put undersize bearings in I know you know that but just saying to be thinking out loud I guess.

 

[Vern]

Checked my measurements of the pistons and they are right, called Hoye - manual has 2 different size engines 336D is a 83.73MM and the one listed is for a 90mm.
Anything ordered from the web is suppose to be for the 83.73mm

There is not a hitch while turning the crank and I did not feel anything on the clutch pedal when I first got it home.

I am going to order the parts and put it together.

 

[Car Doc]

Well that's interesting 2 engines first I heard of that. I seem to remember the 1050 JD being a 90mm bore now I think about it fwtw. My engine is a 3t84t so its a 84mm bore most likely unless someone stuck 90mm liners and pistons in it I should be so lucky.

I would have thought you measured right it was the only thing I could think of. Based on my 336 manual like I said it wouldn't be the first manual that was wrong.

I will look at my manual and my other documents and see if I can figure which engine I have since I didn't do any bore measurements on mine when I had the head off. good luck