3ph T-post thingamajig....

[bobodu]

The homegrown version....

Very handy when PULLING A PLOW!!!!!

 

[MarcusCarr]

I would probably not want to weld something to the bottom of my FEL. I wonder if you could weld an metal cylinder with a cap on top to the back of the bucket. Beside that you could weld on a bracket with two cams, that could be used to pull the posts out.

 

[Freds]

Not to anyone particular....

I was pulling T-posts out today giving this some thought. I don't have anything specifically designed to pull them, I just make a couple loops out of the middle of the chain, drop them over the post, walk back to the joystick and raise the bucket. I was operating the joystick with my left hand and got a little choppy one time lowering the post back to the ground so I could shake the chain off. The post swung under the bucket and I ended up shoving it right back into the ground (different hole) slicker than you know what. Because it took no effort at all, in my ground anyway, I wondered why the post driver had to be in the middle of the bucket, so this is what I came up with.
Bear with me, I don't have all the software loaded for my copier, so can't scan a drawing.

How about a bracket or two welded to the top of the bucket towards one side. My bota has about a 4" lip on the bucket that would work for this. To these brackets you would weld a pipe running parallel with the top edge of the bucket, side to side, maybe a foot long. This pipe would accept a slightly smaller diameter pipe or a solid steel rod. We'll call this pipe rod B. Rod B would be doing the work, so I was thinking maybe 2" diameter.

Let's say rod B is 18" long, so it slides into the pipe welded on top of the bucket and overhangs the side of the bucket. To the underside of rod B is welded a pipe to accept the T-post. You could even use the hand T-post driver. Because rod B swivels inside the other pipe, this "receiver" would always hang plumb, perpendicular to the ground.

You stick the T-post into this receiver, maybe use a bungee on one of those **** to hold it up in there, and the T-post should hang nice and plumb and be ready for you to lower the bucket and push it into the ground.

If anyone follows that build one and let me know if it works /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I don't have access to all the goodies, but when the weather warms up I may build one for next year's snow fence.

 

[texredneck]

This set up sounds pretty good to me. I dont see why you need it center loaded. The purpose would be for max strength, balance of strength. However, I dont see this being an issue. I would suggest for those who want to do work with the FEL and the 3PH you should build a carry-all for 3PH and carry all your stuff on there. Use the loader just for pulling and pushing. Seems like a plan to me

 

[Defective]

Here's a rough picture to see if I got your description.

The blue box is your FEL.
Green is your unnamed pipe.
Red is rod B.
White is the receiver.

Should work...

 

[Freds]

Hey, that's pretty cool /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Obviously the blue box could be any kind of bracket. I'm sure you knew that. I was thinking of a couple short pieces of 1/4" plate. There is a small lip on the side of my bucket I need to get over.
The white receiver for the T-posts... I was going to weld it on the bottom (so to speak) of the red pipe or steel rod to keep the whole unit swinging below this pivot point. I see no reason why welding the the red rod (rod B) to the wall of the post receiver, as you have drawn, wouldn't work either.

I also thought, if you had the ability to drill or burn some nice holes... you could make the brackets taller, heftier, and use them in place of the pipe (green was it?), that houses the pivoting rod. When the post driver is removed you would have a couple attachment points for a chain.
Put one on either side of your bucket and you add a couple other options. If you drive your tractor perfectly perpendicular to your fence line, you could space two posts a bucket's width apart without moving, or toss a couple shovel, rake... handles into these brackets /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Freds]

Just saw where you had all the components labeled. Need more coffee /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[Defective]

Hi Freds,

My thinking:

Weld the green pipe directly to the top of the bucket (or spaced to cover the lip you mentioned) for maximum strength.

The white receiver is positioned so that it will hang open-end-down when there's no pressure on it. Once it's pushing the T-post, the pressure is on the top cap which is above the pivot point. This keeps it from trying to rock off the post which would happen if it was welded to the bottom of the red pipe.

I would stick to using pipe to house the pivot rod as it's simple and would allow for a grease nipple.

Definitely put one on each side of the FEL.

I've attached another image with the green pipe missing and the end caps re-colored. You can see the orange cap on the red pivot rod. This cap could be attached a bolt in the center to allow for easy removal.

I've also added a ring (yellow) to positively locate the pivot rod in the pipe bracket.

 

[Defective]

I may have had too much coffee...

Just had another thought. If you weld a bracket (green pipe) at each end of the FEL and line them up carefully, then you have the base for even more attachments. Think about options if you slide a solid (hardened) steel bar all the way through both brackets. Hhhmmm... Fork mounts... Grapple mounts... Better add a third bracket in the middle before we bend something.

 

[Defective]

Absolutely TOO MUCH COFFEE...

See the picture...

 

[Freds]

There ya go!

I was going to have a cap on the white receiver to prevent post slippage. I had even mentioned using a hand T-post driver, if you have one already like I do. After all, once you get one of these bad boys made up, who would use the hand operated model? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I just like everything hanging below the pivot rod. Don't ask me why... less stress on the receiver wall, all the weight is below the pivot rod, the rod adds strength to do the pushing with....
I'm sure both designs would work, but it's how I will make mine.

Definitely one on each side. W/O caps though. I think having the pipe always at the ready to slide a shovel handle or something into would be handy without having to remove a cap, but it's a nice touch.

Also, maybe a small eye bolt or two welded to the white receiver. One could be used to fasten or hold the T-post into place (I'm hoping a bungee hook can get enough bite on those **** that are on T-posts, but the hook could be modified). This would also keep the posts all facing the same direction, saying your tractor could always face the same direction.... And one to have a length of dog chain or similar hanging from to let you know when your posts are at the correct depth when it touches the ground.

Dang I wish this weather would get better so I could go and make one. I need a workshop! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[andyfletcher]

Actually the old dock side pile driver system might work, and you can use various weights too. The 3PH would be secondary to the main lift and fall components.

Basically you would use a geared down system run off your PTO. It would turn a large cam type arrangement that would turn a spool wound with thin stainless cable. The cable would be looped over a high pole arrangement, I'll call the Jack pole, which has a pulley at the top that has a shroud over the top to prevent the cable from slipping off. This pulley is the Jack pulley. The Jack post could be channel or "T" rail, in order to have a well greased slide hammer attached to it, or, a well greased 6-9in well casing with a round hammer inside. The top of the hammer could have removable different weights applied. This pole has well has being the overhead attach point for your lift/fall arragement could also act to hold your post vertical.

<font color="blue">Operation: </font>

The way it would work is that you'd use the 3PH to lift the whole unit to carry it to the job site, and that's all it would do.

You'd place the weight on your hammer and the hammer on your post. You engage the PTO that is geared down by belt reduction. An idler pulley acts as your clutch for fast release and you would man the operation from there.

Once the clutch is engaged, the cam turns the spool until it reaches the notch in the cam. At this point it lets go of the spool which unwinds the cable and the weight falls. The cam still turning, starts to raise the cable again dropping the weight.

Now once we drive the post down we need to slacken off the cable the distance the post has be driven, plus some, otherwise the only depth you'll reach is the first blow, and the cable would see a deadfall on the second drop and the hammer won't hit the post. This can be handled by having the Jack post top pulley on a slider that would decend has the fence post decends. A side rod that would "U" bolt to the fence post in some fashion, and connected to the Jack pulley at the top.

The PTO would have to be rigged for safety of course, and that could be done by having a "normally disengaged" idler pulley. In other words it can only work with someone holding the lever with considerable force.

I suppose a diagram would be better.

That was fun, might even try it. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Andy

 

[bota7800]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I thought and have heard about the bucket method but I was just thinkin about carrying all the fencing "supplies" in the bucket and then using the 3ph pressure of putting them the ground. )</font>


You could switch the tasks around. Use the bucket to place T-posts and use a carryall on the 3 point hitch to carry the supplies. I have seen several examples on this site.

 

[tenacrewoods]

Hello! Guys
Hope no one minds me bumping up this old thread but I really like this
T-Post driver idea but I wouldn't like the idea of getting off the tractor
to settup every single t-post so what if you ran lots of heavy wires in to the reciever, like the kind on a large Brushwheel and used it to hold onto the t-post (grapple like).Then you could pick them up from a upright postion and move them without ever leaving the tractor except when you first unloaded them from the rear bucket. Do ya'll thing it might work ???
Really bad pic below.

 

[Mike120]

Steve, Save your time and effort and just get one of these....Rohrer Manufacturing Inc. :: Fence Post Drivers and Supplies

 

[CurlyDave]

Has anyone came up with any ideas for a 3ph T-post implement?

I always thought this is exactly what a "puff drill" or a "puff bit" for a post hole digger was for.

Options:

belltec

northerntool

 

[Birdhunter1]

If the dirt is soft enough I've often used a front end loader to drive them down. Not pounding it in just a slow push into the ground.

I don't know if any of these smaller or larger compacts will be able to, last time I did it it was with a 986 International.

 

[StevenPaul]

Wow, cool, the ol' thread is still kickin'. For those interested, I'm in the idea stage of hopefully coming up with a multi-functioning attachment. I kinda have an idea about developing it and I'd like to make a prototype but I think I'm going to need the help of some engineering type thinkers, hydraulic guru's, a metal fabricator and if all goes well, an investor. So we'll see, winter's comin up and hopefully I'll have more time to put into it right now it's just drawings and wishful thinkin.

thanks for keepin the thread goin!
Steve

 

[mikim]

Steve, Save your time and effort and just get one of these....Rohrer Manufacturing Inc. :: Fence Post Drivers and Supplies

I've got bad shoulders so my wife bought me one of these -- works really well -- but you darn well better hang on to it -- I setup my carryall with a genset & compressor, carried the posts in the fel - and went down the line - rather quickly. wouldv'e been even faster if someone had been there to move the tractor along. I didn't like spending that kind of $$ - but we are going to have a lot of posts to drive and she figures it'll come out to less than 50 cents per post. Cheap enough to stay away from the Dr.