OP
3-Point Hitch 3pt draft arm broken-3720
- Thread starter KennedyDiesel
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Deerescaper
Member
Here's a picture of my broken arm. This one had already broken and been welded at the pin hole. As you can see it it not a completely fresh break with the rust evident on the rest. I went by the local dealer but they didn't have any 3000 series on hand so couldn't compare to the newer style.
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JB4310
Super Member
Man both of those look like some pretty crappy China smelting pot metal castings.
They use to use that junk for the old window weights.
Definitely not something to build a critical strength application part on a high end tractor with.
I'd probably still just weld em back together, if replacements weren't any better or very expensive.
JB.
They use to use that junk for the old window weights.
Definitely not something to build a critical strength application part on a high end tractor with.
I'd probably still just weld em back together, if replacements weren't any better or very expensive.
JB.
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Spudland_Dave
Veteran Member
I'm guessing this is a "known issue"
I didnt "break" mine clean in half, but within 15 hours of getting my 3520 I had one arm bent like a taco....thought for sure I would have had to buy one, but for grins I talked to the svc manager about what happened, and without batting an eye he said they would warranty. I got the feeling it wasnt the first one, and with this post I'd say my suspicions were true.
I didnt "break" mine clean in half, but within 15 hours of getting my 3520 I had one arm bent like a taco....thought for sure I would have had to buy one, but for grins I talked to the svc manager about what happened, and without batting an eye he said they would warranty. I got the feeling it wasnt the first one, and with this post I'd say my suspicions were true.
OP
KennedyDiesel
Veteran Member
I did a quick weight count on the early arm vs the late model replacement. The early is a more rounded bar and the late is more squared. The early was like 14.5-15# and the late is 16-16.5#
Teh telescoping arms are about 18@ but are basically the early arms with the telescoping end.
I also had to choose different sway pin positions in order to get my Imatch centered. It seemed as if the early arms may have been slightly bent where the lift link holes are located.
Teh telescoping arms are about 18@ but are basically the early arms with the telescoping end.
I also had to choose different sway pin positions in order to get my Imatch centered. It seemed as if the early arms may have been slightly bent where the lift link holes are located.
AKfish
Super Member
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From the dark, shaded area it appears to be a defective casting. The rust appears to have spread outward from that -- and then you just plain broke the rest of it!!!
I don't recall or not if your dealer offered to cover everything under warranty (or just good customer relations) or if you had to cover the expense.
Glad to hear the new design is heavier duty.
AKfish
I don't recall or not if your dealer offered to cover everything under warranty (or just good customer relations) or if you had to cover the expense.
Glad to hear the new design is heavier duty.
AKfish
Deerescaper
Member
You know when comparing the pictures I'm not so sure mine isn't the newer style as it looks to be more square than the other fellows. Still a pain when it happens and the dealer only warranteed one arm for me and I've bought two others at my expense. I am going to talk to a regional block man about this problem as local dealer made it sound as an isolated case. Glad to hear I'm not the only one breaking the pot metal.
OP
KennedyDiesel
Veteran Member
Just a follow up here. This weekend I got a little rough with my skidding winch and made a mess of my 3pt. This was with the telescoping links which are the only reasonably priced units out there. I ended up bending the RH draft link up like a pretzel, BUT it did not break or even give the appearance of beginning to crack. The fork for the lift link broke, but that is because it received a heck of a spreading force.
I recently had the LH lift link split on me so I replaced it with the much heavier later unit and am now replacing the RH unit with the later one.
I should add that this recent issue is purely me being too rough on things. The failure of the original draft arm I chalk up to cheap crappy steel. The failure of the lift link I chalk up to undersized spindly design. Looks like this has all been corrected in the later models...
I recently had the LH lift link split on me so I replaced it with the much heavier later unit and am now replacing the RH unit with the later one.
I should add that this recent issue is purely me being too rough on things. The failure of the original draft arm I chalk up to cheap crappy steel. The failure of the lift link I chalk up to undersized spindly design. Looks like this has all been corrected in the later models...
JB4310
Super Member
By their design and intended use they should be able to take a beating with out this much drama.
I did bend mine, but that was from ramming snow banks in reverse with a modded truck plow mounted to imatch.
Most would say not an intended use for 3 pt
JB
I did bend mine, but that was from ramming snow banks in reverse with a modded truck plow mounted to imatch.
Most would say not an intended use for 3 pt
JB
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Deere Dude
Elite Member
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- John Deere 3720
I bent one on a 3720 because I had a loaded bucket and backing into a fairly loose pile of dirt with a dirt scoop. I was backing in 4WD and raising the scoop as I was backing it in to get a bigger pile on it. It was a 30 hour tractor so I took it to the dealer and the replaced it free and not a whole lot was said about abuse. But just enough to where if it bends again, forget it.
I thought they make them out of cheap steel. Anyway, I was very careful after that and then last summer I was clearing brush with the FEL and accidentally backed into a 5" diameter tree and bent the same one again. I hardly felt much of a jolt. This time I just put it in the log-splitter and straightened it and got it fairly straight. I still don't trust them very much anymore. It must be to much horsepower because I remember a Ford 8n ripping it to er' in reverse moving all kinds of dirt.
Way at the beginning of this post someone welded a bar on the top of theirs so maybe I'll have to do that. Of course I would hate to have a piece of cast break off the trans-axle either.
I thought they make them out of cheap steel. Anyway, I was very careful after that and then last summer I was clearing brush with the FEL and accidentally backed into a 5" diameter tree and bent the same one again. I hardly felt much of a jolt. This time I just put it in the log-splitter and straightened it and got it fairly straight. I still don't trust them very much anymore. It must be to much horsepower because I remember a Ford 8n ripping it to er' in reverse moving all kinds of dirt.
Way at the beginning of this post someone welded a bar on the top of theirs so maybe I'll have to do that. Of course I would hate to have a piece of cast break off the trans-axle either.