4035 stalled while idling

[RedFirstGen]

Around here we have a saying, "fix what you know is wrong first", then look for the less likely culprits if all is not fixed. You might have an electrical issue with the start solenoid, but I'd get the fuel lines changed out anyway first.

Thanks Dave!!

 

[RedFirstGen]

Ok. One more dumb question. Are any of the fuel lines specific to Mahaindra? In other words, are they just universal type fuel lines that are used in many tractors? (ABC tractor/service down the road would have them?) I have a tractor dealer/service place just down the road from me. They have been around forever and have multiple locations around the area. This specific location doesn't sell Mahindras (although their location about an hour away does)....but I'm guessing changing the fuel lines would be a pretty simple job for them and since they are only 3 miles away would be real convenient for me. Does that sound logical?

 

[DavesTractor]

If you peel of the little metal crimp and remove the hose, then you just have normal fuel grade 5/16" and 3/8" hose barbs underneath. Once they see that, it's a piece of cake. Or I'd be pretty certain the Mahindra would cover the parts under warranty for the new style hoses with the ends factory crimped, they are pretty good about that if asked. If you are beyond your warranty period, the dealer would have to call the service manager and ask.

 

[RedFirstGen]

Thanks again. Your info is as useful as it is timely. I know where I would be going for any and all work If I lived near Red Bluff CA!!

 

[Sysop]

Thanks again. Your info is as useful as it is timely. I know where I would be going for any and all work If I lived near Red Bluff CA!!

Just between you and me; Dave is awesome. He's honestly so awesome I don't think even HE realizes how awesome he is. I don't think he realizes because of all the effort he puts into being awesome, he must also have a HUGE dose of modesty in there as well. Most folk that reach his level of awesome, get a swelled head, then quit trying and kinda fade away. He is just awesome to the core and can't help himself.

Don't tell him I said that...

 

[RedFirstGen]

Just between you and me; Dave is awesome. He's honestly so awesome I don't think even HE realizes how awesome he is. I don't think he realizes because of all the effort he puts into being awesome, he must also have a HUGE dose of modesty in there as well. Most folk that reach his level of awesome, get a swelled head, then quit trying and kinda fade away. He is just awesome to the core and can't help himself.

Don't tell him I said that...

Lol. That's funny. I can tell he has heaping doses of awesomeness. As do you apparently because your help has been equally awesome.

 

[Sysop]

I'm just an opinionated parrot. Happy to help though!

 

[RedFirstGen]

Well. Nothing like admitting youre a complete idiot on the Internet for all to hear. But- I'm an idiot. So, in conjunction with all this I changed the fuel filter on the tractor this week. That got me thinking. Did I possibly bring this issue on myself by messing something up when I changed the filter?? After doing some Google searching I found a video tonight of someone changing the fuel filter on a 4035. there was of course the outer large O ring on the filter like you see on any filter. Then I also noticed there was a smaller O ring in the middle of the filtee where the hole is that the filter housing threads into. It was at this point I said- Hey, I don't remember the new filter I put on having that inner little O ring. So out to the barn I went. I opened the box the filter came in and there it laid. Hmmmm. So, next with flashlight in hand out to the driveway and dead tractor I went. I took out the bleeder screw in the filter housing and began pumping the primer. I pumped until my arm was about to fall off and no fuel at all. Just air. My question now is if I brought all this on by my dumb mistake how did it start at all and run for 45 mins today before not restarting. (And of course still won't start).

 

[Billrog]

If you turn the key on will the lift pump pump the air out for you while the bleeder screw is open ?

 

[Sysop]

Just grasping at straws, perhaps everything was wet enough when it went together it was able to hold prime. The constant draw of the pump and time dried out the connection where more air could be sucked and it lost prime. Another theory is both are required to maintain the seal under full pressure, and since both aren't present the other became unseated at full pressure allowing it to lose prime.

My manual says to oil the orings before installation, and it also states to "bleed" the filter with the bleed screw on the back of the filter housing.

Again I'm just grasping at straws, I've not changed my fuel filter yet (recommended at 500 hours).

Here is what the manual has to say:

 

[RedFirstGen]

Billrog- I don't know. I didn't get any farther tonight than pumping the primer and finding no fuel. Sysop- I did download the manual. And did put a little oil on the outer ring before I put the filter on. Somehow I missed any reference to the other little O ring. To try and fix the issue in the morning...my plan was to simply remove the fuel filter, add the little O ring, remove the bleed screw again and prime like crazy hoping to get fuel flow. Is that likely going to work? Should I turn the engine over with the bleeder open? Something else I should or need to do?

 

[Billrog]

I could be wrong but I wouldn't turn the engine over with the bleeder open with my tractor the lift pump works as soon as you turn the key on. You should be able to hear it. If the line has no fuel it could take a while to pump with the primer.

 

[DavesTractor]

Just between you and me; Dave is awesome. He's honestly so awesome I don't think even HE realizes how awesome he is. I don't think he realizes because of all the effort he puts into being awesome, he must also have a HUGE dose of modesty in there as well. Most folk that reach his level of awesome, get a swelled head, then quit trying and kinda fade away. He is just awesome to the core and can't help himself.

Don't tell him I said that...

Stop it. You are going to ruin my modesty, and it will all be your fault! These 4035/5035 tractors are so, so good...but for a few stupid glitches that probably amount to $50 or less if fixed in production. Hose quality, routing of the power-steering hose (get it away from the starter!), and maybe a few grommets here and there to better secure wiring. Then 95% of the problems are gone forever. It looks like the new Tier IV replacements addressed all of these items, and frankly, it's about time.

 

[Billrog]

Here's another thing I've had to do in the past if you have a compressor pressurize the fuel tank a bit just a rag to fill in the space around the air line and give it some air to force the fuel out of the tank.

 

[Sysop]

Stop it. You are going to ruin my modesty, and it will all be your fault! These 4035/5035 tractors are so, so good...but for a few stupid glitches that probably amount to $50 or less if fixed in production. Hose quality, routing of the power-steering hose (get it away from the starter!), and maybe a few grommets here and there to better secure wiring. Then 95% of the problems are gone forever. It looks like the new Tier IV replacements addressed all of these items, and frankly, it's about time.

Just giving credit where credit is due.

My dealer had new 4035s show up on the lot shortly after I purchased mine that had the updated fuel lines from the factory. That being the case I had thought the fixes were showing up prior to the tier4 final engines. Seeing the new hoses on the new unit when my return line started leaking fuel on the ground made me want the new lines rather than repairing them with autoparts hose.

 

[RedFirstGen]

I'm thinking I brought this issue on with my fuel filter change. I'm definitely going to replace the fuel lines but I don't see any leaks anywhere. I pumped the primer like 30 times and can't get ANY fuel to come out of the bleeder.

 

[Sysop]

Can't really speak to what you might have done wrong on the filter, but I can tell ya the only place you'll ever see a leak and the only time you will lose any fuel at all is on the return line. The other line is under vacuum from the pump and when leaking it will introduce air into the fuel stream, no fuel ever leaks out of the line. If the leak is bad enough all the fuel goes back to the tank and it won't build enough pressure to ever draw fuel from the tank (prime the system).

A small leak can result in slow or hard starts, running lean, stuff like that. As the leak gets worse and allows more air in it gets to the point it will not run or hold prime. It is quite likely in changing the filter the leak became bad enough the latter is your cause.

I wouldn't crank the engine to bleed the system, damage to the pump may occur. Many internal parts of the Bosch pumps require the lubrication provided by the fuel being in the system which is why a manual primer is provided.

 

[RedFirstGen]

Thanks!! I'm not going to do any more with it until I get the lines replaced.

 

[RedFirstGen]

Another one . What the heck is the best technique for removing the darn crimps on the ends of the hoses?

 

[Sysop]

Small grinder cutting wheel seems to be what is most mentioned. Put it in a vise to hold it and grind/cut a slit up the side of it and peel it off. Once it is off cut the hose off and under the hose is a standard barb on the end of the metal part of the line.