425 Road Work

   / 425 Road Work #11  
I got the utility grapple and the 4-in-1 bucket. Went through the same back-n-forth over grapple bucket and 4-in-1. I just had them add teeth to the 4-in-1 and was good to go. I've only had them about a month but so far happy with both. I also got the light material bucket at Moss's recommendation, very happy with that too!
 
   / 425 Road Work #12  
You have chosen your attachments well. Those are very useful and effective attachments.
 
   / 425 Road Work #14  
Yeah, if they'd put a little Kubota diesel in something the 400 series size, I'd seriously consider it.
 
   / 425 Road Work #15  
I've got a few years of experience with my pt425 now....it's got 300h as a diesel (Kubota d662)...Awesome.

I build trail, which is best thought of as half a road... So that crown (cross slope for me) is a tough function.

First, I definitely recommend the 4n1 with teeth, it's a well made tool with a lot of uses. (I'll get back to that...) And the utility grapple, which is possibly pt's best kept secret.

Also, I can say that the traction description, given on the prior page of posts, is dead on... Sideways, grass, mud, uneven ground better traction than any other wheeled utility machine....but by design loses traction (pushing) before you bend something (mostly).

I've tried some tricks and antics to achieve crown and cross-slope, the weight and oscillation of the machine almost make it impossible to achieve....put another way the machine flexibility makes dozing hard.

Some examples I've tried (no lectures please):
letting some air out on one side. Effect, floating tilt-ish in the box blade, 4n1. The oscillating motion really is just compounded by the slack in the tires

Pulling a rut slightly below final grade w trencher or mini hoe, placing one side's wheels lower then planing backward with the open 4n1. Effect, this actually works pretty well for me in cooperative soil.

With a tractor and front end loader or pt with a tooth bucket you could replicate this by making small steps (if you viewed a cross section) from shoulder to crown. You're then pulling the plane you want (the difference in the rise of your steps) crown to shoulder by having one side lower and shaving with the 4n1. It eliminates the steps and there's no grooves. It's a lot of work and requires a lot of string(level) or really good consistent slope perception.

Finally, using a soil conditioner (aka power rake and the 4n1 to adapt the method above works really well saves a ton of time. You just adjust the bite depth of the tool between strips. I've used this prepping ground to be asphalt covered as a greenway (paved path)

So those are things that got my task done... Adapt, overcome style, which may work for 400'. But when it came time to repeat the effects, because the customer was pleased... I found a used struck magnatrac mh5000 with a six way blade.

I considered a tilt-tach for a mini skidsteer, 1500 on ebay (7diamond) and the maker is happy to attach a pt qa plate... But when it comes down to it, moving earth in a sheared plane, especially with efficiency, consistency and tilt requires a different method of applying power to ground, both in terms of work and traction. Mh5000 right tool for the task.

That little dozer is in the final stages of being fitted with pt425 loader arms... Pto and all. I'll post pics in a new thread....I'm often near Tazewell.
 
   / 425 Road Work #16  
Agjones, am I reading that right? you have a PT425 with a Kubota diesel. I would love to see pictures of it when you have the time.

Thanks
Frank
 
   / 425 Road Work #17  
I just looked up that engine on youtube. Looks like it could fit to me (Having never seen a 425 in real life so take that for what it is). Not sure how you work out the cooling, I guess the radiator is in the back but man, the prices on those engines are relatively cheap...
 
   / 425 Road Work #18  
Yes I put some pics up last year...it's tight. Real tight... But I can reach the oil fill, filter, drain and radiator same. The radiator is in the back. Cools fine...keep the debris out of the the fins with a screen if you mow.

The engine is cheap on its own... But total, I find it cheaper to buy retired fairway mowers... Just got one w/ a 33hp Kubota in it....babied for 2000h....tons of bonus hydraulics, seat upgrade etc.
 
   / 425 Road Work #19  
OK, you got me SUPER intrigued on the Fairway mower. I am looking to improve the cut on my property. was thinking a flail but for the price of a new flail I can buy a well maintained but used fairway mower. How are they on moderate slopes? Uneven ground? love any insight you would be willing to share on this type of machine. It is for the wife.... She loves to mow but we are mowing around 5 acres of grass these days (I am mowing the rest of the 15 or so with my brush hog)
 

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