4500P

   / 4500P #21  
I think if were me and i saw anything in the oil, i would have taken a sample and had it tested. If any metal showed up in the sample it would have been on record, they would have a hard time getting out from under a replacement engine if it went south. ? jim

I would order a test kit from Blackstone labs at Blackstone Labs and have the oil tested for a piece of mind.
 
   / 4500P
  • Thread Starter
#22  
That is one of many, if your lucky to have one in driving distance is more convenient …… Either way i would recommend it getting it done. jim
 
   / 4500P #23  
I just finished 3 hour mow on my 4500P with the rear discharge rough cut mower deck, which brings me up to a total of 10 hours so read my impressions based on I'm new to this tractor. I also wanted the Kawasaki engine because I have very steep slopes on my property. The dealer heavily suggested the Kubota engine because of a slight HP advantage but I went with the Kawasaki anyway. When the dealer delivered, he said he didn't sell many of these engines but remarked that the engine was very smooth and it was nice not having to deal with a choke. While mowing today I finally had the courage to mow my steepest hill which is 30 degrees and in one area goes slightly steeper. I felt so secure that I was going across and not up and down when it started a light rain. Right at the very end I could feel a slight slippage in the rear but I don't think I slid more than a few inches. That is when I started mowing up and down and not across. I had the weight transfer lever engaged all of the time at the fullest extent. Final impression. Way more power than I needed. The Kawasaki engine is very powerful, does not "hunt" or "surge". When mowing at these slopes, the engine does need to be almost at full throttle or the hydraulics whine a bit. One observation is that the engine manual says to change oil at 8 hours but not filter, so that is what I did. Oil drain is repositioned to a nice location which I liked. However, when the oil came out it had a slight "sheen" through it like there was a suspension in it. At first I thought this was just metal left over from machining, but now my best guess is that it is part of the break-in oil that had possibly a polishing media in it. Dunno. Tried searching for that on web but came up empty. Contemplated changing oil again this time with filter but then again, don't want to second guess the design engineers. Whatever the case, I would certainly recommend following the manual and changing at the 8 hour mark.


I've gotten to be good friends with my dealer over the years, he has always been spot on with his assessment of the Ventracs. He pushes the Kawasaki engine over the kubota. First off irregardless of its power rating the Kawasaki engine has more torque,it's very noticeable,the engine recovers faster from bogging whether it be a snowblower,or finish mower it just maintains rpm better..It also uses a lot less fuel,and starts much easier. The biggest advantage of the Kawasaki is it doesn't have that catalytic convertor which causes problems with vapor locking and shortening the life of everything under the hood. The only downside of the Kawasaki is its alternator output isn't nearly as much as the kubota,this could be an issue with snowblowers and cab options with the add on lights ,and fan/windshield wiper.With the LED light and strobe technology where it is I don't beleive this is a big deal as 5 - 18 watt LED lights would light up any area as well as a low draw strobe or led flasher , the kubota engine is an excellent engine,it's just straddled with the catalytic convertor and carburator,if it was to be offered with DFI it probably would be untouchable...
 
   / 4500P
  • Thread Starter
#24  
After i get done cutting grass for the year i will try to figure how or if i can turn the fan for winter. maybe a set of side curtains also. Be like going back in time to the old dozers with no heat… jim
 
   / 4500P #25  
After i get done cutting grass for the year i will try to figure how or if i can turn the fan for winter. maybe a set of side curtains also. Be like going back in time to the old dozers with no heat… jim

Just hit the trans reverse fan switch on your right side rear
 
   / 4500P
  • Thread Starter
#26  
I was told about that by the dealer, but you will get more heat and faster from the radiator. Using a fan to reverse the air flow for winter would the best and the most efficient. jim
 
   / 4500P #27  
I was told about that by the dealer, but you will get more heat and faster from the radiator. Using a fan to reverse the air flow for winter would the best and the most efficient. jim

I agree but it's better than nothing.
 
   / 4500P #28  
I was told about that by the dealer, but you will get more heat and faster from the radiator. Using a fan to reverse the air flow for winter would the best and the most efficient. jim

Are you talking about the engine fan? My fan is part of the engine with no way to reverse it.
 
   / 4500P
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Are you talking about the engine fan? My fan is part of the engine with no way to reverse it.



I plan to check it out, Maybe able to turn it around or buy one for counter rotation. I would remove the screen for more air flow…. An other idea was to use the exhaust shroud maybe an alternative also…… jim
 
   / 4500P #30  
Turning a fan blade set around will not reverse the air flow. Make it less efficient, yes. Reverse flow, no.

prs
 

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