4707

[daugen]

The only issue I've had is the 3pt hitch control. It's still not fixed. Other than that, everything is good.

I tried with the draft control knob all the way one way, then the other, then about a quarter turn from each end. What I really wanted was draft control turned off but wondered if somehow I was
choking off flow to the rear. I'm clearly not a mechanic and simply tried all the options.
There are so many position sensors with and without nanny circuits that I always think what's in the wrong position?
But to have the dealer service guy come out and duplicate the dysfunction is great. Assuming they can then analyze the symptoms correctly.

I'm sure this tractor has an OBD type plug in for diagnostics. But then I just read that not only does JD not want you to muck with their software, but Agco and Case IH have taken a similar stance about right to repair. How about right to analyze?

I think I remember a sensor built into part of the three point, maybe the top link.

Goridedoo, hope that trans filter not clogged with bits of your trans...that sure might make a clunk. Good luck. Hopefully low pressure or something adjustable.
trans filters should not be clogged on new hardware unless something got in the build that shouldn't have. Like sealant that got where it shouldn't have. I went through three
clutch packs in an older Olds SUV until they found the lube oil pickup tube three quarters clogged with build caulk.

 

[goridedoo]

Another observation… tough to see the oil level on the trans. Honestly can’t tell if theres even oil in it right now. Sure should be.

Sight glasses are nice, but a dipstick never lies.

 

[Wobblin-Goblin]

OK, might be another issue popping up. Over the course of the last few weeks, I've noticed a dark spot under the tractor (by the rear end, under the cab). Didn't think much of it because it was very minor and I thought it was water dripping off the machine. Nope. In my preparation for this storm, I noticed most of the back of the tractor was covered in a reddish fluid, like something was leaking and spraying the back of the tractor. The trans-hydraulic fluid isn't red (more of a clear yellow?), so what could it be?

 

[LouNY]

fuel?

 

[Wobblin-Goblin]

Hmmm. I am using off-road...but where could it be coming from?

 

[Str8 6]

I tried with the draft control knob all the way one way, then the other, then about a quarter turn from each end. What I really wanted was draft control turned off but wondered if somehow I was
choking off flow to the rear. I'm clearly not a mechanic and simply tried all the options.
There are so many position sensors with and without nanny circuits that I always think what's in the wrong position?
But to have the dealer service guy come out and duplicate the dysfunction is great. Assuming they can then analyze the symptoms correctly.

I'm sure this tractor has an OBD type plug in for diagnostics. But then I just read that not only does JD not want you to muck with their software, but Agco and Case IH have taken a similar stance about right to repair. How about right to analyze?

I think I remember a sensor built into part of the three point, maybe the top link.

Goridedoo, hope that trans filter not clogged with bits of your trans...that sure might make a clunk. Good luck. Hopefully low pressure or something adjustable.
trans filters should not be clogged on new hardware unless something got in the build that shouldn't have. Like sealant that got where it shouldn't have. I went through three
clutch packs in an older Olds SUV until they found the lube oil pickup tube three quarters clogged with build caulk.

Take the pin for the top link on the tractor out and replace it with a standard pin and see how the 3 point acts. That pin is the sensor the draft control uses so swapping it for a standard pin should help eliminate the draft control causing issues.

 

[Wobblin-Goblin]

Went out to the garage and looked more closely at everything. It's not fuel, it appears to be coolant. Why would the back of the tractor be sprayed with coolant? Also, the coolant reservoir is quite low, further suggesting it's a coolant leak.

 

[Str8 6]

Cab heater line leaking?

 

[Boss 302]

Sounds like you have just about nailed it down, good luck

 

[LouNY]

That should be easier then finding a fuel leak.
A caution with that color anti freeze be carefull what you mix with it.
If you don't find your leak at a hose connection loosen your fan belt and check the fan for water pump bearing issues.
Good Luck

 

[Wobblin-Goblin]

That should be easier then finding a fuel leak.
A caution with that color anti freeze be carefull what you mix with it.
If you don't find your leak at a hose connection loosen your fan belt and check the fan for water pump bearing issues.
Good Luck

I got up this morning and was going to ask here if I could use "universal" anti-freeze to top the coolant tank off. The anti-freeze bottle (from Wal-Mart) says it can be added to any make or model.

 

[LouNY]

All I can say is I don't believe those claims;

One of my daughters added old green stuff to her Chrysler mini van once,
I spent a weekend flushing and washing her cooling system out.

I changed the coolant in my UTV to a "long life" and thought I had flushed it good.
I have no idea what it had before or if someone had added something to the coolant system.
But I ended up with a hard waxy substance that seemed concentrated in the water pump
with just a bit in the lower section of the radiator.

And here is the new water pump impeller compared to the one removed

So I have no clue what to tell you other then be careful, and if you change it I'd recommend a really
complete flush which will be difficult to do in cold weather as most engine do not have a low point block drain any more
and draining the radiator will leave a gallon or more in the block.
Good Luck

 

[EddieWalker]

Went out to the garage and looked more closely at everything. It's not fuel, it appears to be coolant. Why would the back of the tractor be sprayed with coolant? Also, the coolant reservoir is quite low, further suggesting it's a coolant leak.

My guess is it's related to your heater. I would fill up the reservoir, get the engine warmed up and turn on the heat full blast. Then gut under there with a good flashlight and start looking. Since it's a new tractor, I wouldn't be surprised if it's just a loose hose clamp.

 

[EddieWalker]

Yesterday I bought hay from somebody new, and he loaded me with a 2018 Massey 4711. I asked him where he bought it from and if he liked his dealer. He said Dogwood sales in ********* TX, and he said that the dealer was great. But he also said that almost from day one, he had issues with the smog system. It got so bad that Massey flew people out to his place to work on it, and they never did get it right. Last year he had a guy from Dallas come out and delete it ,and tuned it up to 125 HP. He said that while running the bailer, it would bog down before, but now it has plenty of power. This is the same engine that is in the 4707!!!

I'm not planning on deleting anything, or increasing the HP. In my experience when doing this with Jeeps and Trucks in my younger years, it was just a lot of money, without any significant improvements. But it is interesting that the engine was capable of that much more power.

 

[goridedoo]

Yesterday I bought hay from somebody new, and he loaded me with a 2018 Massey 4711. I asked him where he bought it from and if he liked his dealer. He said Dogwood sales in ********* TX, and he said that the dealer was great. But he also said that almost from day one, he had issues with the smog system. It got so bad that Massey flew people out to his place to work on it, and they never did get it right. Last year he had a guy from Dallas come out and delete it ,and tuned it up to 125 HP. He said that while running the bailer, it would bog down before, but now it has plenty of power. This is the same engine that is in the 4707!!!

I'm not planning on deleting anything, or increasing the HP. In my experience when doing this with Jeeps and Trucks in my younger years, it was just a lot of money, without any significant improvements. But it is interesting that the engine was capable of that much more power.

You’d probably be mind blown at the difference between a stock diesel pickup and a tuned one, its well worth the coin!

If I get along well with my 4707 I am going to look into tuning it as soon as my warranty is up. Shouldn’t be any issues at all going to atleast 100hp, and I bet a well tuned 100hp would be a nice upgrade over the factory 4710 tuning.

 

[EddieWalker]

the 4707 does seem to be the perfect platform for this. No DEF or DPF to deal with. Just reprogram the computer for more power. Is it really that simple? For what I'm planning, I can't think of any reason to need more HP, but it is interesting to know that it's possible.

 

[goridedoo]

the 4707 does seem to be the perfect platform for this. No DEF or DPF to deal with. Just reprogram the computer for more power. Is it really that simple? For what I'm planning, I can't think of any reason to need more HP, but it is interesting to know that it's possible.

Should be that simple. Sure would beat paying an extra 8-10k for the 4710 and have to deal with def.

I’m not sure if ekotuning is still available in the states… I know its getting harder and harder to get diesel pickups tuned, many tuners got have been fined and shut down over the last few years.

I’d like the extra power for the snowblower, and the ability to run a larger rotary cutter down the road. I’ve also noticed the 4707 doesn’t really have enough “go” to run 25 mph down the road, only have the power for 21-22.

 

[str8six]

I have the 4710 and pull my 12' and 15' cutter with it. With both cutters you will start getting poor cut quality long before you will ever start boggin the engine down. I cut every kind of grass you can imagine and even in the thickest bermuda you just hear the turbo spin up and it pulls through it without breaking a sweat. The Dyna 2 is a dream for bush hog work!

 

[Wobblin-Goblin]

The dealer is sending a truck out to pick up the tractor.

 

[goridedoo]

Just ran the tractor again for the first time since this post. New issues- clatter and trouble code with the pto engaged, d 11 516433, along with with the transmission filter blockage indicator light. Also started to get a somewhat harsh clunk either when the clutch is 90% released or a few seconds after being fully released and on the move.

I’ll get a tech out and see whats up I guess.

Update- they came out today, guy thinks the clutch pedal works as normal, I don’t really agree. I run large Deeres 100s of hours per year, and the clutch on this tractor just doesn’t feel right. Sometimes it feels just fine to me and other times if I had to creep ahead 6” or so there is now way I could do it, I very slowly let of the clutch and the tractor jumps a few feet.

He acknowledged the transmission clunk, but the pto seemed ok aside from a little noise upon start up. He said he was gonna recalibrate the pto, 3 pt, and change the high pressure trans filter. I had to leave before he finished up. Just got back and took the tractor for a drive, all issues still remain. PTO seemed better initially but after driving the tractor around for a half hour or so and trying again it started making loud noises and throwing the code again.

EDIT: I just got off the phone with the service manager, there was bunch of chunks of brass and metal in the filter. They are gonna come get it next week and tear into it. Wish they would have told me that before I just drove it around for an hour LOL oh well, I’ll be happy as long as they get it taken care of.