4WD and loader work

[rScotty]

This subject of 4wd and front-to-rear driveshaft windup comes up so often that old mechanics wish someone could explain it well enough that new tractor owners could understand & benefit.

Sure it's difficult to visualize what makes drivetrain windup happen, but even without understanding why, it is simple to use the tractor in a way that avoids the whole problem.

The problem is real. It exists because most of our 4wd tractors DO NOT have a center differential.
Anyone saying that the problem doesn't exist simply because they have used 4wd continuously without a problem isn't helping new tractor owners at all - the newbie may not be so lucky.

I know people who never change oil or antifreeze, just add more as needed. Lots of those old trucks and tractors are still chugging along. Does that mean that changing fluids and filters is a waste? Same thing.

Some people can abuse something and not have a problem.
All that proves is how handy it is to be lucky.

rScotty

 

[bgr]

For any 4WD tractor which does not have a center differential(almost every one I know of), sometimes the front and rear wheels turn at different rates, especially in corners.. This is done without damage to the differentials because the wheels can slip a little on most ground tractors are used on. This is the normal situation.

However on very hard ground or pavement where tires do not slip easily, use 2WD whenever you can. This will save a huge amount of wear on tires and the driveline. You will need 4WD for braking, soft ground, pushing into a pile, and other situations you can easily figure out, but always shift to 2WD when you don't need it and you are on a surface which gives good tire grip.

If you have a manual 4WD engage lever and it is hard to shift out of 4WD, that means there is tension on the driveline that has not been relieved by wheel spin. Just reverse direction for a foot or two to release tension. But use that as an indication that the surface is not letting the tires slip as they should and you should try not to use 4WD on it any more than necessary. If you are seeing a lot of tread wear, especially on the front tires, that is a sign that 4WD is being used too much on hard surfaces.

Unlike tractors, all wheel drive cars have a center differential which compensates for different wheel speeds when the tires have good traction on dry pavement.

 

[HellBender]

Did not read all the replies so this may all ready been said.
Being in 4wd to me is for safety. The first time you start down a hill with a full loader and the weight is transferred off the rear tires you can go for a ride. I have plenty of ballist and a few times I had to jam the tractor into 4wd to get the front tires locked in because I forgot I didn't have it in 4wd to begin with. That is harder on the drivetrain than leaving it in 4wd. When working with the loader, I usually only take it out when I am going on the dirt road or on pavement to save tire wear and can hear the drive line growl when it winds up. After 1500 hours on my first tractor, I would not have any concerns for the drivetrain if I were to leave in 4wd unless on pavement. The rear tires should have enough slip unless it is heavily ballist. I will mention that the front turfs were bald when I traded it. Small price to pay for safety.
If its a steeper hill, I'll back down.

 

[5030]

The manual states to not use 4wd anytime 2wd will do. If you need 4wd to get into the pile then that is fine. The wheels should not be slipping when filling the bucket. It they are you are not loading the bucket correctly or your pile is too solid and needs some breaking up before trying to scoop a bucket up.
Be sure to use proper loading techniques. Enter the pile flat, lift and curl while moving into the pile to fill the bucket.

Exactly what I do. front wheel assist is only there to use when traction becomes iffy, not all the time.

 

[5030]

Unlike tractors, all wheel drive cars have a center differential which compensates for different wheel speeds when the tires have good traction on dry pavement.

If I lock the locking hubs on my F350 with it's limited slip front differential and get in a traction spot and cut the wheels, you can quickly feel the inside tire slipping.

 

[Chewwy]

I have had 3 tractors and one backhoe. Two of the tractors and the backhoe are large machines and are 2wd, the smaller tractor is 4wd. None are ever driven on a hard surface except when being parked under cover or changing an attachment.

I seldom have had to engage the lockers on any of the 2wds. The 4wd often needs the diff locked, so I tend to leave it in 4wd. All of them except the backhoe have loaded rear tires. I chalk it up to the weight of the larger machines and their larger rear tires.

 

[Egon]

Did not read all the replies so this may all ready been said.
Being in 4wd to me is for safety. The first time you start down a hill with a full loader and the weight is transferred off the rear tires you can go for a ride. I have plenty of ballist and a few times I had to jam the tractor into 4wd to get the front tires locked in because I forgot I didn't have it in 4wd to begin with. That is harder on the drivetrain than leaving it in 4wd. When working with the loader, I usually only take it out when I am going on the dirt road or on pavement to save tire wear and can hear the drive line growl when it winds up. After 1500 hours on my first tractor, I would not have any concerns for the drivetrain if I were to leave in 4wd unless on pavement. The rear tires should have enough slip unless it is heavily ballist. I will mention that the front turfs were bald when I traded it. Small price to pay for safety.
If it’s rop the bucketa steeper hill, I'll back down.

Drop the bucket

 

[HellBender]

Drop the bucket

That can cause other problems!
Google: "tractor dropped bucket hit road" images no longer active but you'll understand the aftermath. It pretty much folded the tractor inhalf when a young boy riding shotgun dropped the bucket by accident. Looks like a circus elephant standing on a pedistal.

 

[Egon]

Keep the bucket curled back.

when going down very steep grades it is not unusual to have the bucket/blade lowered and pushing dirt to control descent rate.

 

[Gord Baker]

Did not read all the replies so this may all ready been said.
Being in 4wd to me is for safety. The first time you start down a hill with a full loader and the weight is transferred off the rear tires you can go for a ride. I have plenty of ballist and a few times I had to jam the tractor into 4wd to get the front tires locked in because I forgot I didn't have it in 4wd to begin with. That is harder on the drivetrain than leaving it in 4wd. When working with the loader, I usually only take it out when I am going on the dirt road or on pavement to save tire wear and can hear the drive line growl when it winds up. After 1500 hours on my first tractor, I would not have any concerns for the drivetrain if I were to leave in 4wd unless on pavement. The rear tires should have enough slip unless it is heavily ballist. I will mention that the front turfs were bald when I traded it. Small price to pay for safety.
If its a steeper hill, I'll back down.