4wd tractor vs 2wd

[wade simpson]

I broke one of my front shafts thus unable to use four wheel drive. It rendered my tractor very limited to what I could do. Mind you, I only have a 20 Hp tractor so not much weight. I use mine for road work, fire wood and general hauling stuff around.

I don't think I would have bought a 2wd.

 

[tractorboy5500]

Tractorboy5500,
Hehehe.:laughing: I was told before if you can get it out yourself, you are just delayed. If you need help, your stuck. I haven't been stuck yet, as I carry my own "jacks".
hugs, Brandi

Guess I missed this one, I can say I have been delayed many times and stuck 3 times, so far. I dont have jacks on mind yet.

 

[SixHoeBob]

Ok, Iam sorry. :confused2:, But what is there to ballast on a 4wd, if anything the two wheel is un-ballast, because 4 wheels pulling is better than 2 wheels pulling, think about it.

What is there to ballast on a 4wd? I am glad you asked.

Proper ballasting of a 2wd tractor for tillage work would include filled tires and cast iron rim weights. Basically, more weight yields more traction.

The rear wheels of a 4wd tractor should do just as much work as the 2wd version, therefore filled tires and iron weights. The front axle is meant to be front axle assist. It is meant to provide additional traction, not to be a substitute for the rear axle doing the work.

The fully weighted tractor can be too heavy for yard work, and more than a person wants to haul behind their truck. And then there is the money thing.

Both 2wd and 4wd need rear ballast, as well as suitcase weights or loader for front end weight. Shannon can add $1500+ to the quotes for proper ballasting.

The farm is getting smaller.

 

[ShannonCole888]

I know about that. My intention is to buy one thing at a time. For example, make about a $3,000.00 down payment on a new tractor, with a few implements I will need. Pay about $1,000.00-$1,500.00 a month on it, till it is either paid off, or almost paid off, then save up for a 10% or 20% down payment on the land. I may purchase the land first, then the tractor. My strategy is basically the same though. I still have to consider building a shed on the property, for the equipment, and my tools, etc.. Prep the land, then build a cellar (This maybe about $3,000.00) I don't know. Rent small excavator, dig cellar, pour foundation and forms, lay block, find I Beams, and ceiling, buy freezer, and refrigerator, as well as build shelves, plus buy metal cellar door, build steps, and buy solar power kit for lighting, freezer, and refrigerator. Price of Freezer, and refrigerator, plus solar power not included..lol.. Oh, yeah dig two wells, if the property doesn't have any. Self drilling kit $800.00, to have it drilled $2,500.00-$3,000.00 not sure on exact price. Plus the pump, is about $700.00 for a cast iron old fashion one. There is a brand called Bison pumps, but they are more expensive, but are probably better. Hopefully, I can find a good parcel with a well,or two. After all this, I plan on building a small house/cabin/cottage. Building material for that will be about at $15,000.00 ( I will be doing all the work). I plan on only build about a 600sqft-900sqft place, with the option of adding on later. I hope to go all solar, and wind turbine, with grid available..takes patience..

 

[tractorboy5500]

What is there to ballast on a 4wd? I am glad you asked.

Proper ballasting of a 2wd tractor for tillage work would include filled tires and cast iron rim weights. Basically, more weight yields more traction.

The rear wheels of a 4wd tractor should do just as much work as the 2wd version, therefore filled tires and iron weights. The front axle is meant to be front axle assist. It is meant to provide additional traction, not to be a substitute for the rear axle doing the work.

The fully weighted tractor can be too heavy for yard work, and more than a person wants to haul behind their truck. And then there is the money thing.

Both 2wd and 4wd need rear ballast, as well as suitcase weights or loader for front end weight. Shannon can add $1500+ to the quotes for proper ballasting.

The farm is getting smaller.

Yes, about 95% of the time anyone buy a tractor with front end loader either 2 or 4 wd, the dealer will fill the rear tires anyway, thats a given for just about any tractor not just if its 2 or 4 wd. When I bought my tractor I didnt get the fel, I got it 3 years latter, and had the same dealer install the fel, they told me its a must to fill the rear tires, either its a 2 or a 4 wd. And yes there is alot of differnts in traction just using the 2 wd with the tires filled.
Also seen 2 wd with fel and front weights?????

 

[ShannonCole888]

The house I can get under roof for about $4,000.00, but that isn't including all insulation, drywall, or wood paneling, not sure on interior walls. I plan on putting T1-11 5/8 in 4x8 siding on exterior, Galvanized metal roofing. Not sure if I will use 2x4, or 2x6 wall studs. 2x6 construction cost about $40% more for the dry lumber. Plus the added cost of the insulation used in 2x6 24in wall cavities. May have better insulating properties, but not sure that will be a problem..8 ft porch, likely 2 exit doors, 6 windows, brick fire place, normal weight block foundation, likely will use quickrete concrete, depending on the price of concrete in the area for footers. Like to find cast iron tub, for reasonable price, but they are so expensive. That fiberglass stuff from lowes, isn't all that appealing to me. The cheap stuff tends to crack. Probably will put down hardwood floors of some kind, probably the basic type. Likely oak. Laminate doesn't dent, but water isn't a friend to laminate flooring. Considered a woodstove, but a fireplace will cost about the same amount to build, plus I like a fire place better anyways.

 

[ShannonCole888]

I went to a Massey Ferguson dealer, I didn't ask him about tire ballast, but he told me he would deliver the tractor for free, wherever I needed him to. I am still yet to go check on another dealer on what kind of offers he might have. I need a trailer too, but I can wait for that. I don't have anywhere to really put it right now. I will need a trailer, but I can wait for it. I will likely go with a 2wd, but I could change my mind by the time a actually buy one. I know from experience to stay witin your means. Never go in debt. Pay things off as much as possible, and as soon as possible. I also heard the liquid tire ballast isn't good for the rims, or the tires ??? Corrosion problems ?

 

[tractorboy5500]

I went to a Massey Ferguson dealer, I didn't ask him about tire ballast, but he told me he would deliver the tractor for free, wherever I needed him to. I am still yet to go check on another dealer on what kind of offers he might have. I need a trailer too, but I can wait for that. I don't have anywhere to really put it right now. I will need a trailer, but I can wait for it. I will likely go with a 2wd, but I could change my mind by the time a actually buy one. I know from experience to stay witin your means. Never go in debt. Pay things off as much as possible, and as soon as possible. I also heard the liquid tire ballast isn't good for the rims, or the tires ??? Corrosion problems ?

Yes I know what you mean about buying one thing at a time, I did buy the tractor brush hog and box blade I wanted, but waited 3 years to get the front end loader because of the money at the time, and as time went on I bought other items, and I bought a bigger GN trailer about a year ago, "finally". I just bought a used round hay bailer a month ago, now I need the cutter and rake next, I hate waiting sometimes. Guess I will need to build a bigger shop next.
Yes I did hear some of the stuff they use to put in tires are somewhat corrosive, I have about 70% water and 30% antifreze. One set back is its not as heavy as liquid tire ballast. But this gave me 1061lbs of weight, I think that should be enough.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

If one only uses the steering wheel to turn then 4WD is fine and may have the best resale. If one uses brakes to turn on a dime then I prefer 2WD in that case.

FEL use is more funtional with 4WD. With a 2WD when you need the traction the most then the weight on the rear tires is often the least.

In old stuff 4WD can increase repair bills.

 

[bindian]

I don't know. I plan on doing mainly tillage work, with a secondary use for pulling heavy, red oaks, some 20-30 in diameter,some as thick as 48 in anywhere from 8 ft-40ft long. They are heavy. Of course I can cut them to managable sizes with a chainsaw. Do you think a 38hp Massey Ferguson 2605 2wd will handle them properly ? I have also considered the Case IH Farmal 70 2wd, and the NH T4020 2wd, which is almost the same tractor, except the body work, and rearends. I know they are heavier, but the cheapest new one I see myself getting is probably around $19,000.00, while the 2605 is around $12,000.00 That does include, rotary cutter, plow, tiller, cultivater, grain harvester, manure spreader, etc.. I will be also purchasing

I cleared my 5 acres after the loggers left a mess. I started with this 54hp Ford 3055 with 2WD. I bought it used for $3500 with a wore out JD rotary cutter. It's rear wheels were about 5 feet or so high. The tractor was almost too lite to tackle the big trees remains. You catch a large log wrong with just a box blade and that log will spin you around. You need weight to handle large logs and small tractors just don't have it. I was glad I bought the 3055, as I was looking for 20-30 hp tractors to clear and clean up the mess with. I can honestly state using anything smaller than the tractor pictured can get you and your tractor hurt in a hurry working large logs.
hugs, Brandi