fried1765
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2015
- Messages
- 10,089
- Tractor
- Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, 8N Ford, Gravely 12 HP "Professional", 48" SCAG Liberty
Tiller 5’ PTO Tiller for 25HP Tractor. 19HP to PTO
- Thread starter nasonjo
- Start date
- Views: 20054
No worries!
MESSMAKER
Veteran Member
I used a 5 foot KK tiller behind a 19pto hp machine for years. It worked fine.
Do you know if they are forward or reverse tillers? I can’t find much online that says specifically...
airbiscuit
Super Member
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- Aug 28, 2004
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- 6,520
- Location
- NW Wisconsin
- Tractor
- New Holland T2310 (40hp), Kubota L3010 GST, New Holland TC21DA *** Previously - Farmall H, 1941 John Deere B, Shibaura SD1500, John Deere 850, Bobcat 642, New Holland 1925
Give them $1,000 and buy it already.
I don’t make too many big purchases... or purchases at all so I like to get all the details and compare all my options before spending the money!
I don’t like settling on one thing because I was impatient. I was still hoping to grab a 48” brand new tiller online but I was hoping to be persuaded into the 42” offset. If he will go down in price I’ll probably grab it.
CoyPatton
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2015
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- 1,578
- Location
- Poplar Bluff, MO
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM2002D with Koyker 110 FEL
maybe a 4.5’ but no larger!
Diggin It
Super Star Member
Mine is a 48" Taylor Pittsburgh. My PTO is either 18 or 19HP.
I have one area that's mostly red rock gravel and hasn't been worked in over 30 years, if at all. I had trouble getting into it last summer after the ground had dried out to near concrete. Over this past Winter, I went at it with a Middle Buster to break it loose as deep as I could, then hit it with the tiller. I let it set for a few weeks then went at it again, first with the Middle buster, then a landscape rake. It's now broken up fairly well and I'll hit it with the tiller again before I try to plant.
Through all that, the tractor only bogged down a few times when I hooked a larger root with the MB, never with the tiller.
I have one area that's mostly red rock gravel and hasn't been worked in over 30 years, if at all. I had trouble getting into it last summer after the ground had dried out to near concrete. Over this past Winter, I went at it with a Middle Buster to break it loose as deep as I could, then hit it with the tiller. I let it set for a few weeks then went at it again, first with the Middle buster, then a landscape rake. It's now broken up fairly well and I'll hit it with the tiller again before I try to plant.
Through all that, the tractor only bogged down a few times when I hooked a larger root with the MB, never with the tiller.
I think that a 60 inch might be a bit much for clay. Don't overlook a 42" tiller. Most will offset a tad and take out one tire tread and that is all you really need to do. I really don't think that you can overtill your soil as long as you add organic matter to the soil every so often. Garden residue, cover crops , old hay/grass, leaves and just weeds. I've tilled the same plot for thirty years and I have excellent soil structure. I also don't think you can get a hard pan with our little tractors and our lightweight tillers. You do have regular soil lower than the tilled surface but that isn't hardpan and crops will go right through it. I have a large garden and I like to allot a 1/4 section of it each year for a cover crop such as buckwheat or red clover. Next year that is my garden area and I rotate it about every 4 years. I usually sow a winter cover crop also. That landpride sounds like a nice tiller. Don't fret about covering your tracks. Just lap it and you'll get a good garden. By the time the dog/kids/wife/you walk all over it you won't even notice tractor tread marks in the garden.
Thanks. This is just for general tilling. Not just garden. I have to plant grass around the entire house. Some loam some sandy and some clay.
Will the 42” be enough to get through the blue clay or would I be better with a 4’?