50 hour service questions

[deminin]

I would follow the Kubota owners manual recommendations so long as the unit is under warranty....with one exception. When changing the engine oil, I would go to Shell Rotella 15w40 oil, rather than the Kubota brand. The Rotella oil is designed for diesel engines, and is probably the number one oil used by most farmers in their heavier equipment. Kubota doesn't make or refine oil...they just buy it from whoever gives them the most profit to put their name on the bottle.

Once out of warranty, I would use nothing but WIX filters. They are far superior to most brands, and cheaper than buying the Kubota "Name". The WIX website has a conversion area that will give you the proper numbers...and there are dealers all over the country.

I would continue to use the SUDT in the hydraulics, but if you have 4WD you might want to switch to 80W90 lube in the front axle. I don't think that flimsy hydraulic fluid is a very good lube for the ring and pinion, or the bearings. I had to rebuild my front axle a couple of years ago when a bearing froze and spun. After switching to 80w90, I have had no further problems.

 

[OrangeRidge]

Change the SUDT for fresh . It's cheap IMO.
This was the state of mine at 4 hours or so.
A 1850psi pump doesn't need any metal particles
in the mix . Ditch it. 400hrs is total BS . What is
this , a bragging-fest between manufacturers service
intervals ? I do engine oil at every 50hrs too.

 

[harrelson]

I tried to use wix filters for the transmission but they were made different and would not except a magnet that is inside the filter. This was for a M7040HD1

 

[MHarryE]

People who know best as to what your tractor needs are the ones put the numbers in the manual. Having said that, my L3710 called for a complete hydraulic oil and filter change at 50 hours while my new L5740 calls for only a filter change at 50 hours and not to replace oil until 400 hours. From my personal experience as an engineer at a major equipment manufacturer and analyzing literally thousands of oil samples, the dirtiest oil (except for a machine suffering a component failure) is new oil. At our plants we spent tens of thousands of dollars to filter oil prior to installing it in machines. We had cleanliness limits the hydraulic oil needed to pass before a machine could leave a plant. Much of the new oil we sampled was dirtier than our ready to ship requirement. The solution when a machine failed its cleanliness test was to let the machine run so the on board filters could clean up the dirty oil, then change the filters before shipping. Our equipment was designed so if a filter began to plug, it would never bypass unfiltered oil into the system. I don稚 know if the Kubota system is similar but on the chance the system is designed to bypass a plugged filter, it makes sense to change filters more frequently than you change oil. The piston pumps and motors used in the hydrostatic system require extremely clean oil and unless failing, don稚 generate significant wear particles. The hydraulic oil also lubricates gear trains that are notorious particle generators during break-in. As a manufacturer knowing how dirty new oil can be, we put cleanliness requirements on any hydraulic oil packaged with our name. I don稚 know if Kubota does the same but I use Kubota oil just to be safe. One exception on my front axe, the factory fill gets drained and replaced with a synthetic 75W-90 gear lube.

 

[fredhargis]

I'm one of the "follow the manual" guys. One reason to do that is to read the diversity of opinions offered here; all from very knowledgeable guys but yet they are all slightly different to one degree or another. I suspect they are all correct, but following the manual gives you a more established procedure. For 50 hours on my B2920, it was engine oil/filter and the transmission filter...top off the fluid. I found I had to add less than a quart, and I used the Kubota SUDT. I used a Wix filter on the engine, but there isn't one for the transmission. There is a Wiz for the hydraulic filter, and I'll likely use it when that one has to be changed. As for the synthetic oil, I'll probably go with it on the next oil change (planning on 100 hours) but for the moment I put in the Rotella 15W40.

 

[bellweather]

I generally follow the manual too. At my 50 hr service I did however drain/replace the HST fluid, figured it can't hurt...I also throw out a lot of stuff in the fridge that my wife thinks is still good.

PS - And I use all Kubota filters and fluids.

 

[kuboman]

People who know best as to what your tractor needs are the ones put the numbers in the manual. Having said that, my L3710 called for a complete hydraulic oil and filter change at 50 hours while my new L5740 calls for only a filter change at 50 hours and not to replace oil until 400 hours. From my personal experience as an engineer at a major equipment manufacturer and analyzing literally thousands of oil samples, the dirtiest oil (except for a machine suffering a component failure) is new oil. At our plants we spent tens of thousands of dollars to filter oil prior to installing it in machines. We had cleanliness limits the hydraulic oil needed to pass before a machine could leave a plant. Much of the new oil we sampled was dirtier than our ready to ship requirement. The solution when a machine failed its cleanliness test was to let the machine run so the on board filters could clean up the dirty oil, then change the filters before shipping. Our equipment was designed so if a filter began to plug, it would never bypass unfiltered oil into the system. I don稚 know if the Kubota system is similar but on the chance the system is designed to bypass a plugged filter, it makes sense to change filters more frequently than you change oil. The piston pumps and motors used in the hydrostatic system require extremely clean oil and unless failing, don稚 generate significant wear particles. The hydraulic oil also lubricates gear trains that are notorious particle generators during break-in. As a manufacturer knowing how dirty new oil can be, we put cleanliness requirements on any hydraulic oil packaged with our name. I don稚 know if Kubota does the same but I use Kubota oil just to be safe. One exception on my front axe, the factory fill gets drained and replaced with a synthetic 75W-90 gear lube.

Ditto to that. It always baffles me as to how there can be any argument to changing the oil early on a new machine or one that has been apart. Just plain weird.:confused2:

 

[bstrom]

Personally I think following the manual, especially on the HST oil change is the way to go. I changed mine at around 100 hrs and I think it was a waste of time, money and resources. It was as clean looking as the new stuff I put in, with no metal that I could see. The two filters had been changed at 50 hrs.

I think the only thing you might want to accelerate the interval on is the engine oil and filter change. My dealer recommends 100 hrs. or once a year for that after the first 50 hr. change.

 

[Twinkieflyer]

I took my 3540 to a very large dealer several months ago for 50 hours service at 48 hours. They told me the would change the hydraulic oil if I wanted it but they recommended only a new filter. Changed engine oil and greased and blew out cab filter.

 

[Carl Bert]

What to do, what to do, what to do. I guess I will go with synthetic oil, I believe Rowenta is the best? I will also change the hyd fluid and filters. I look at it this way. Since it seems that everyone is split down the middle, and I can't make an educated decision, based on the information I have. I will change the fluid, just to be on the safe side. Thanks for all the input guys, I do appreciate it.