Canopy 5020 roll guard installation

[marcin]

Hi all,

I recently bought an original roll gard for my 5020. I have the row crop version fenders which are currently mounted on their proper brackets. The fenders do not have cut outs. I understand that the vertical bars of the roll gard is supposed to fit in these cut-outs but how are the fenders attached? There are no bolt holes in the vertical bars. I appreciate your input.

 

[Zebrafive]

What do you mean by "cut outs"? On the newer 50 series the lower vertical part of the ROPS has tabs on the front back edges to bolt the fenders to. The fenders are not different for them (with or with out ROPS). There is a piece (spacer) that goes between the ROPS and fender. This on the newer series. I am not sure how 5020s were. I would assume the fender mount just stacks on the ROPS base?

 

[marcin]

This is on the 1968 5020.

 

[jenkinsph]

Just guessing here but are the cut outs you speak of on the base plates for the fenders? You might have to notch the base plates to fit on the rops mountings. When I added a factory rops to my smaller 820 I moved the fenders and mounting plates outward and then bolted the rops mountings in place.

If it were me I would see if the fender base mounts had enough clearance around the rops up rights. I would be very careful not to cut out more than needed to fit. Don't want to weaken the fender mountings.

 

[Zebrafive]

Here is a drawing of how JD did it on the newer tractors. The ROPS has tabs an spacers go between the fenders and ROPS. I think you could fab something up, straps on the inside of the ROPS, spacer between the ROP and fender and some nuts, washers, and bolts

 

[marcin]

I finally got around to installing the roll gard and fenders on the 5020. I had to make some modifications to the fenders:

- I cut out holes (I used a template from another 5020 owner) that the vertical bars pass through
- I cut off the inner 2 brackets on each fender as these were not wide enough to allow the vertical bars to pass through
- I added another drill hole and clamped the fender to the vertical post with a metal bar - it is very solid

I think the fenders look good overall. They seem a little high, do not bother me enough to shorten them though. The nice thing about this set-up is that I can bring the wheel in closer as needed. I have to do some paint touch up and find a canopy next. Does anyone know if the 4020 canopy will fit or is it too narrow? Thank you for the info.

 

[beenthere]

Are these pics in triplicate or should we look for some subtle differences between each set of three?

Looks like a fine build.

 

[jenkinsph]

marcin,
That 5020 is really coming along. You have done a great job with it and put in a lot of time and money. :thumbsup:
Glad to see that you are getting past the engine/transmission/guts and moving on to simpler items. Can't wait to see pictures when you are done. I could use one of these myself.

 

[marcin]

Thanks. I have definitely spent much more time and money than I ever anticipated. I keep telling myself that it will payoff in the long-term - I guess we will see.

There are a few things left: some body work, rebuild of the steering valve and electrical.

That brings me to the question. My current electrical situation is very simple: alternator, battery, starter and ignition switch connections only. I would like to upgrade this to include: lights, engine oil pressure, alternator, horn. I found harnesses on the web but the set-up would cost me almost 1K. I would like to try and do this myself, but really have no electrical experience. Is it doable? Are there any helpful diagrams? Thanks again.

 

[jenkinsph]

Thanks. I have definitely spent much more time and money than I ever anticipated. I keep telling myself that it will payoff in the long-term - I guess we will see.

There are a few things left: some body work, rebuild of the steering valve and electrical.

That brings me to the question. My current electrical situation is very simple: alternator, battery, starter and ignition switch connections only. I would like to upgrade this to include: lights, engine oil pressure, alternator, horn. I found harnesses on the web but the set-up would cost me almost 1K. I would like to try and do this myself, but really have no electrical experience. Is it doable? Are there any helpful diagrams? Thanks again.

The wiring is simple enough that you should be able to build up a new harness easily. Not really much harness to it. I have rewired several older tractors 4020,3020, 820 andCase 1370. With simple remove and replace technique you should be able to do this. The last one I reworked was an 820 diesel and the new wiring was better than original. On the 820 I eliminated the crappy fuse panel and used inline fuses and that eliminated the chronic problems with poor connections. I bought the wire for the project from Bestboatwire.com and used their tinned copper wiring for everything. They have the terminals and connectors along with the heat shrink to make long lasting connections. The battery wiring is the more costly item but the tinned copper is well worth it to me. This just about eliminates wiring corrosion too.

Use some paper tags or tape you can write on to ID each lead and where it goes back. You would have to keep track of the leads whether you buy or build your own. Good luck with it.

 

[marcin]

jenkinsph,

I reviewed their website - their products look to be good quality. Would you recommend getting the "multi-cables" or individual ones and then bundling them together? If the latter, what do you usually use to "bundle" wires?

As far as lighting goes, would you recommend converting to LED or HID? It seems that HID is brighter but I am not sure that there are any that would fit the 5020 appropriately.

Thank you for your advice.

 

[jenkinsph]

I would make use of the multi cable where possible but some of it will need to be individual wires. Where the wires will get hot I would use the silicon rubber coverings and tape. Properly sized heat shrink with the built in sealant works great too.

About the lighting, lots of new led models out there with a much lower current draw than the older incandescent bulbs. I would still want the HID lamps for the road lighting but would have a separate set of led wrapping around the tractor if working at night. The new led lights are much better than just a couple of years ago and would be great for general lighting. You have to watch overloading the system with lighting, not sure what you have for an alternator or generator.

 

[marcin]

The problem is that I currently do not have any wires to copy except alternator-starter-ignition switch. I found the wiring diagrams in the service manual, they seem pretty complex. The main harness has about 14 wires running through it - this may become a mess trying to do it with individual or even double wires. I am not even sure where the fuses would have to go. Should I just buy the main harnesses and add individual wires to lights, etc? Also, what shape of light do you recommend for the main headlights: spot, flood, trapezoid?

 

[jenkinsph]

A few questions first. Do you have fender mounted headlights now with two lights per fender? Do you want to add extra lighting above the standard set up? What is the cost of the OEM harness?

If you can build your own harness using the tinned copper wire and new heat shrink materials you will have a better than original harness. If you are adding additional lighting the custom harness makes more sense. If you are satisfied with the original lighting and prefer a quick fix the factory or OEM harness may be the easier route.

I can check on the lighting for your tractor this week and will post back here.

 

[jenkinsph]

marcin,
I suspect you can use led replacement bulbs on your tractor par 36 with the rubber rings common to these and the older bulbs. Do you have the original light bulb cans or housings on the fenders? There are several brands of par 36 lamps available with and without housings. Ranging from low power work lights to landing light replacements which would be more than you would want. If you don't have the housings there are lots of them available too.

 

[marcin]

Yes, I have fender mounted lights with 2 lights per fender. I also have 1 work light in the back. Is this sufficient or should I put more? I do have the housing cups and rubber seals. Attached is the cost of various parts of the harness - I think it would total about 600-700$, this is not cheap. I really wanted to do it myself until I saw the diagram with various breakers, many wires and so on. Are all of those necessary? I am fairly handy with mechanical stuff but do not know anything about electrical stuff - I am not sure whether I will be able to do it. Which of the par 36 bulbs would you recommend for each location?

 

[marcin]

I am sorry, I made a mistake attaching 1 of the images. Please see below the cost breakdown of the harness.

 

[Tx Jim]

Agri-services is another supplier of wiring harnesses. Wire Harness, Tractor Parts, Harness Repair, Alternator Conversion, Braided Wire

 

[jenkinsph]

Yes, I have fender mounted lights with 2 lights per fender. I also have 1 work light in the back. Is this sufficient or should I put more? I do have the housing cups and rubber seals. Attached is the cost of various parts of the harness - I think it would total about 600-700$, this is not cheap. I really wanted to do it myself until I saw the diagram with various breakers, many wires and so on. Are all of those necessary? I am fairly handy with mechanical stuff but do not know anything about electrical stuff - I am not sure whether I will be able to do it. Which of the par 36 bulbs would you recommend for each location?

View attachment 483618
View attachment 483618

I have worked in electrical and electronics most of my life and would tell you that having an electrical background in this case is only a minor help. If all the wiring has been stripped you need to be able to know where to put them back (routing). Does the technical manual show the routing of the cables? If not pictures of another 5020 might be a great help.

When this discussion started I thought you were in need of the lighting section only. If you need all new wiring you should buy a complete assembly. Which led lights spot or flood in par 36, I would have the spots on high beam and floods on low beam and rear work light.

 

[Tx Jim]

marcin
Does your 5020 still have the factory 24 volt electrical system or has it been changed to 12 volts?