5093E (help on options please)

[dstacy]

I have a ranch and a hay farm. I use a 3032E for most of the work I do. It has been a great little tractor but I'm asking it to do a lot of things beyond its capabilities and I'm tired of baking in the sun while inhaling all the dust and crap in the air. So I ordered a new tractor.
My new 5093E is being set up at my dealer as we speak. I tried to review the available options and pick out what I thought would be good to add. Would those of you with E or M tractors take a look at what I picked and let me know if I'm missing something that you would suggest I get?

• H260 loader
• Air ride seat
• Right hand door kit
• Heavy duty bucket with tabs
• Horn kit
• Buddy seat
• Rear fender flares
• Rear wheels set wider to position 6
• All 4 tires filled
• An extra pair of 4" LED work lights for both the front and rear
• Hydraulic top link
• Armstrong AG 72" grapple w/11 tines
• WR Long 3rd valve kit with 3rd function joystick
• Hydraulic lines for grapple run inside H260 with quick disconnects
• Kenwood high end radio
• Cabcam system with 3 cameras

I have decided on wheel weights, outside mirrors, and the side discharge exhaust kit yet.
Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[corey9212]

I have a ranch and a hay farm. I use a 3032E for most of the work I do. It has been a great little tractor but I'm asking it to do a lot of things beyond its capabilities and I'm tired of baking in the sun while inhaling all the dust and crap in the air. So I ordered a new tractor.
My new 5093E is being set up at my dealer as we speak. I tried to review the available options and pick out what I thought would be good to add. Would those of you with E or M tractors take a look at what I picked and let me know if I'm missing something that you would suggest I get?


[*]H260 loader
[*]Air ride seat
[*]Right hand door kit
[*]Heavy duty bucket with tabs
[*]Horn kit
[*]Buddy seat
[*]Rear fender flares
[*]Rear wheels set wider to position 6
[*]All 4 tires filled
[*]An extra pair of 4" LED work lights for both the front and rear
[*]Hydraulic top link
[*]Armstrong AG 72" grapple w/11 tines
[*]WR Long 3rd valve kit with 3rd function joystick
[*]Hydraulic lines for grapple run inside H260 with quick disconnects
[*]Kenwood high end radio
[*]Cabcam system with 3 cameras


I have decided on wheel weights, outside mirrors, and the side discharge exhaust kit yet.
Thanks in advance for your help.

Telescopic mirrors come in handy when pulling things

Front fenders (stationary cause you have the loader) help keep the mud off the cab.

If you can I would get at least the 540/530e PTO
540/540e/1000 I find comes in handy (I use the 1000 more than I thought I would.)

If you use the 3 point a lot I would get the fender 3 point control and telescopic lift arms (both makes hooking up a breeze for one person.)

 

[dstacy]

If you can I would get at least the 540/530e PTO
540/540e/1000 I find comes in handy (I use the 1000 more than I thought I would.)

If you use the 3 point a lot I would get the fender 3 point control and telescopic lift arms (both makes hooking up a breeze for one person.)

Thanks for the reply.
The E series comes standard with the 540E PTO option and the fender mounted 3 point control isn't available on the E. Telescopic arms are standard on the E also.

 

[cowski]

i am not a fan of filled tires.much prefer weights. air seats are expensive to fix.telescopic arms are nice. i would get the cast rear centers if they are still offered.18.4 x30 tires are preferred.

 

[AKfish]

(1.) PowerReverser modulator kit. (2.) Corner post exhaust - I wish I had it! (3.) 1000 rpm pto - you'll want it down the road - especially with 93hp. (4.) Get ALL the SCV's you can - front and rear. (5.) The Class II quick hitch. If you don't have a lot of attachments for your tractor - as you add them to the stable - get the QA adaptable ones. My MoCo, rototiller, and rear blade are QA.

(6.) Front weight mounting block. That thing has saved my radiator screen a dozen times already! (7.) Radial tires. Skip the wheel weights and spend the money on good tires! Especially if you're gonna have the tires filled.

I'm not that big of a fan of my front fenders. They're Ok, I guess. But, I don't roll out onto the highway or gravel roads very often; so, they don't really do that much for me. But, my front tires rub on 'em whenever I turn fully in either direction...

Maybe that happens (tire rubs) because of the front wheel extensions (4"-5"). But, my front wheels are pretty well centered with the rear wheels (fully extended) so, the tractor is very stable! I'd rather have the front wheel extensions and get rid of the fenders!

(8.) Optional grill guard. That wire mesh works. Big open hole up there is just waitin' for something to bust the lights out!

I'm sure I forgot something... but, this is a real good start!! :laughing:

AKfish

 

[dstacy]

(1.) PowerReverser modulator kit. (2.) Corner post exhaust - I wish I had it! (3.) 1000 rpm pto - you'll want it down the road - especially with 93hp. (4.) Get ALL the SCV's you can - front and rear. (5.) The Class II quick hitch. If you don't have a lot of attachments for your tractor - as you add them to the stable - get the QA adaptable ones. My MoCo, rototiller, and rear blade are QA.

(6.) Front weight mounting block. That thing has saved my radiator screen a dozen times already! (7.) Radial tires. Skip the wheel weights and spend the money on good tires! Especially if you're gonna have the tires filled.

I'm not that big of a fan of my front fenders. They're Ok, I guess. But, I don't roll out onto the highway or gravel roads very often; so, they don't really do that much for me. But, my front tires rub on 'em whenever I turn fully in either direction...

Maybe that happens (tire rubs) because of the front wheel extensions (4"-5"). But, my front wheels are pretty well centered with the rear wheels (fully extended) so, the tractor is very stable! I'd rather have the front wheel extensions and get rid of the fenders!

(8.) Optional grill guard. That wire mesh works. Big open hole up there is just waitin' for something to bust the lights out!

I'm sure I forgot something... but, this is a real good start!! :laughing:

AKfish

I was hoping you'd reply to my post since you have practical experience with these machines. Thanks!

I was sure about the power reverser modulator. My plan was to go without it and see how I liked the tractor without it. Bad plan huh?

I'm not sure I know what a "corner post exhaust" is, can you explain it for me or perhaps post a picture? There is a side exhaust kit which gets rid of the "stack" coming straight up and I'm leaning twords getting it so it isn't blocking my view.

Can you show me what the front weight block looks like on yours?

I'm only going to add the REAR fender extensions. No front fenders for exactly the reasons you described.

The front wire mesh grill guard isn't an option if you get the bigger H260 loader. You can only get it with the 553 loader. Stupid, because I think you are right that big hole is an accident looking for a place to happen.

Amazing how my initial budget of $45k has been blown away and I'm quickly approaching 20% more.

 

[AKfish]

I was hoping you'd reply to my post since you have practical experience with these machines. Thanks!

I was sure about the power reverser modulator. My plan was to go without it and see how I liked the tractor without it. Bad plan huh?

I'm not sure I know what a "corner post exhaust" is, can you explain it for me or perhaps post a picture? There is a side exhaust kit which gets rid of the "stack" coming straight up and I'm leaning twords getting it so it isn't blocking my view.

Can you show me what the front weight block looks like on yours?

I'm only going to add the REAR fender extensions. No front fenders for exactly the reasons you described.

The front wire mesh grill guard isn't an option if you get the bigger H260 loader. You can only get it with the 553 loader. Stupid, because I think you are right that big hole is an accident looking for a place to happen.

Amazing how my initial budget of $45k has been blown away and I'm quickly approaching 20% more.

You can always add the modulator switch later on. The wiring is present - you have to punch out the dash location and connect it. The "corner post" exhaust pipe routes vertically along the right front corner post of the cab. So, it's not in your line of sight and it's not readily vulnerable to damage, either.

You'll need some additional weight on the rear axle. Wheel weights, filled tires, ballast box. Or, some combination. I have wheel weights and they're not adequate; ~400lbs with hardware, etc. Filled tires will triple that number... or more - likely ~8-900lbs per tire. I don't have a strong opinion about one versus the other - just get something. The 5000 series has a light @ss!

I wish that I'd bought radial tires for the added handling and ride comfort as well as the improved traction and wear capabilities. Tires are on the 10-year plan or more. Once you have 'em... you're gonna be using them for a long time! Best to get some good ones - IMO.

Here's a shot of the front weight bracket.

The newer grill guard is a good, solid one. Don't know why the dropped the wire mesh, though. I'm always in the brush - plowing snow, hauling hay, baling hay along the edge/end of the fields. Pushing my luck... and that mesh helps!

Reading an article about new pickups this morning... dealer reps talking about how much they "love" those guys that come in and "order all the available options". They "drool" when those guys walk in the door! I'm sure the JD guys are the same!

AKfish

 

[mike23]

I have a 5093e. You will love the right hand door kit. I don't know how many times I have opened that door to raise /lower the loader,cut the tractor off, or grab something out of the cab. I have the modulator kit. I am not overly impressed with it. I don't think my dealer has ever programed it right. I would still get it but talk to the dealer and get a feel of how much experience they have in programing it. Talk to the service department not the salesman. I have the rear tires filled to the max with wheel weights and it still is light in the rear. The 5093e is a great hay tractor. I use it to make 4x5 bales and it does fine.

 

[corey9212]

Filling the rear tires added a lot of weight on the rear end, it was enough for me to move these 1200lb bales and it wasn't even light on the rear at all.

 

[hoffmtim]

It's amazing the options available less than 4 months later. When I ordered my 5093e in January, couldn't get the buddy seat. Now they're available. I'm sure I could get a field install on it. I would second the telescoping mirrors. I also added the loader lights, really lights the world up in the front during the dark winter months. I loaded up the rears with weights, but no fluid. Haven't had any lightness issues, yet. Air seat is a must, especially for 250lb 6'4" guys like me. Up north here we need block heaters for the sub zero winters. I'm thinking about adding the front tire fenders, I do run a bit down gravel and the rocks do fly.

I LOVE my 5093e, and am waiting for my 567 JD Baler to be delivered (trade in at my dealer, buyer is waiting for his new 569 baler) so I can really put it to use this summer!

 

[AKfish]

It's amazing the options available less than 4 months later. When I ordered my 5093e in January, couldn't get the buddy seat. Now they're available. I'm sure I could get a field install on it. I would second the telescoping mirrors. I also added the loader lights, really lights the world up in the front during the dark winter months. I loaded up the rears with weights, but no fluid. Haven't had any lightness issues, yet. Air seat is a must, especially for 250lb 6'4" guys like me. Up north here we need block heaters for the sub zero winters. I'm thinking about adding the front tire fenders, I do run a bit down gravel and the rocks do fly.

I LOVE my 5093e, and am waiting for my 567 JD Baler to be delivered (trade in at my dealer, buyer is waiting for his new 569 baler) so I can really put it to use this summer!

They're making the E's with a lot of the M options, now. Hard to see how new tractor buyer's will give a 2nd look at the higher priced M's!!

Some posts here on TBN about retrofitting the buddy seat in the E's. Seems that the mounting holes, etc are on the cab frame and removing the section of plastic allows you to bolt up the seat.

I added the extra rear cab lights this winter, too. Really helps to see just off the rear corners of the tractor when backing up.

Forgot to mention the block heater.. Sure wished that Deere offered a transmission heater. Takes a lot of time to warm that transmission/hydraulics up when it's minus 10F, -20F, -30F....

The fenders keep those rocks down! But, I've been in road gear down the highway or on a gravel road... maybe 6-8 times in 2 years. If you travel a fair bit to get to the field - with a cab - get 'em.

AKfish

 

[bigblock]

I would also recommend getting the modulator for the Powerreverse. If adding after delivery make sure that you find out what they will charge to program it to work. I paid $144 for the modulator kit and installed it myself. It is just drilling a hole and plugging into a plug that is already in the tractor. I kept telling the salesman that it needed to be programmed. He said he would get someone out here to program it. He gave the impression that they were doing this as a favor because I had just purchased the tractor so I did not pressure him. After about three weeks and several calls he finally got someone out here. Only took a few minutes with a laptop. No wrenches or parts or anything.

At the end of the month I got a bill for $200 for a service call. It was eventually excused but it would have been better if the terms had been settled beforehand. You should not have a problem when buying a new tractor.

 

[Zebrafive]

I do not see a need to load the front tires.
Why the W.R. Long 3rd function valve and joystick vs JD? Or is it not available from JD?
Multi-coupler for the loader and third function hook up at the implement end of the loader.
Find out why the grill guard with brush mesh from the 553 loader will not work. It may, if so get it. I like the older loaders and would try for 563 or even a 673
Second radial tires.
Larger front tires if available.

 

[vtsnowedin]

I do not see a need to load the front tires.
Why the W.R. Long 3rd function valve and joystick vs JD? Or is it not available from JD?
Multi-coupler for the loader and third function hook up at the implement end of the loader.
Find out why the grill guard with brush mesh from the 553 loader will not work. It may, if so get it. I like the older loaders and would try for 563 or even a 673
Second radial tires.
Larger front tires if available.

Some people might need to load the fronts. You need to take off any front weights when installing a loader as those weights cut into the loaders lift capacity or more precisly the front axles ability to carry the load in the bucket. If your doing draft work where you need ballast to keep the front tires working efficently you could put liquid in the tires and that would not cut into the axles load rating of the loader. Or you could do your plowing with a bucket half full to hold the front end down but then you would need the bucket for something an annoying amount of the time.
I took my mesh grill guard off my 553 loader as it fuzzys the headlights when plowing snow. I've got to remember to put it back on when I start shredding next week.
Other then that you have a very good list here and I can't think of anything that has been left out.

 

[AKfish]

I do not see a need to load the front tires.
Why the W.R. Long 3rd function valve and joystick vs JD? Or is it not available from JD?
Multi-coupler for the loader and third function hook up at the implement end of the loader.
Find out why the grill guard with brush mesh from the 553 loader will not work. It may, if so get it. I like the older loaders and would try for 563 or even a 673
Second radial tires.
Larger front tires if available.

I didn't quite understand the need to go with the W.R. Long configuration, either. But... what the heck - all roads lead to Rome! OEM John Deere 3rd function and joystick and 3rd remote to loader gets you the same end result. Have no idea which option is the lowest cost.

Multi-coupler is a slick option - especially if you drop the loader quite a bit. My hay fields are pretty small; so, I shed that loader when hay season starts up. I'd be surprised if the 563-673 are still available. Have to go to the 310 or the 340, now.

You get larger front tires if you go with Radials.

AKfish

 

[dstacy]

I didn't quite understand the need to go with the W.R. Long configuration, either. But... what the heck - all roads lead to Rome! OEM John Deere 3rd function and joystick and 3rd remote to loader gets you the same end result. Have no idea which option is the lowest cost.

Multi-coupler is a slick option - especially if you drop the loader quite a bit. My hay fields are pretty small; so, I shed that loader when hay season starts up. I'd be surprised if the 563-673 are still available. Have to go to the 310 or the 340, now.

You get larger front tires if you go with Radials.

AKfish

The Deere 3rd function set up is $1,700 and the Long set up is only $1,000. The valves are the same specs and $700 is a big savings.

 

[bigblock]

The Deere 3rd function set up is $1,700 and the Long set up is only $1,000. The valves are the same specs and $700 is a big savings.

My dealer told me it would be $2100 for my M. Before I bought the M I had looked at a Kabota. The Kabota dealer said that to add the third function to the Kabota was around $800. JD seems high on most everything but I bleed green so I pay the price or do without. I'm currently doing without.(the third function)

 

[AKfish]

My dealer told me it would be $2100 for my M. Before I bought the M I had looked at a Kabota. The Kabota dealer said that to add the third function to the Kabota was around $800. JD seems high on most everything but I bleed green so I pay the price or do without. I'm currently doing without.(the third function)

I don't remember what the loader 3rd function cost.. I seem to recall that the multi-coupler was ~$850. Can't imagine that the extra valve body, lines, coupler and joystick electronics would be another ~$1,200!!

But, it's a lot cheaper to get it as ordered new from the factory than it is to have the dealer do a field install. The labor to pull apart everything and then put it all back together - especially with a cab model...

AKfish

 

[Zebrafive]

My dealer told me it would be $2100 for my M. Before I bought the M I had looked at a Kabota. The Kabota dealer said that to add the third function to the Kabota was around $800. JD seems high on most everything but I bleed green so I pay the price or do without. I'm currently doing without.(the third function)

ebay can be your friend. Especially for an older models (mine, not yours). I have found lots of items for my tractor, mostly from freight salvagers that buy damaged or lost freight and resell. I got the 3rd function valve, hard and soft lines cheap. Missing from the box were the quick couplers.

 

[dstacy]

Thanks everyone for the help. I'm checking on the modulator now and have asked about mirrors and the side exhaust. I haven't decided about rear wheel weights yet since the tires are filled.