55 Gal Rear Weight

[MarkLeininger]

I made ballast out of an old weight-lifting bar and plates. I cut the bar to max width of 3pt, and welded drawpins on each end. I collected old weight plates at garage sales and people who got tired of working out. You have to use 45lb plates to really get a large ballast, 25lb plates will work if you don't need so much. It also gives you some flexibility if you ever want to take some of the ballast off. I leave it on the ground in the field, pick it up with 3pt when I need it.

 

[SouthernX]

I made ballast out of an old weight-lifting bar and plates. I cut the bar to max width of 3pt, and welded drawpins on each end. I collected old weight plates at garage sales and people who got tired of working out. You have to use 45lb plates to really get a large ballast, 25lb plates will work if you don't need so much. It also gives you some flexibility if you ever want to take some of the ballast off. I leave it on the ground in the field, pick it up with 3pt when I need it.

Funny you should mention this, Mark. I was in WalMart (ugh!) the other night and looking at weights and thinking the very thing you are describing.

 

[SouthernX]

Thanks to everyone who responded. You each had some good input. Thanks.

 

[SouthernX]

I made mine using a drawbar from TSC like KML suggested. I used a hole saw to cut the 2 round ends of the oblong holes on each side of the barrel and finished the cuts with a saws-all. Slide the bar in place and seal the gaps on the inside of the barrel with duct tape.
While I was at TSC, I grabbed a stabilizer bar, some 1/2" all-thread, nuts and washers. I cut the stabilizer bar in half, drilled 3 holes in each half for the all thread (4" from the factory hole, and then 2" and 6" in from the cut end). The all-thread was used to hold the bars evenly spaced, and by using 10" pieces in the lower holes it works as an anchor in the concrete. The factory hole was left to the top for the top link, and one 4" piece of all thread a few inches below that holds the bars properly spaced. On at least the top all-thread you'll need 4 nuts (one on each side of each bar) to sandwich it in place holding the exact spacing and providing strong support when in use. I kept the bars tilted forward at a slight angle, off center and towards the tractor side of the barrel a few inches too. I got the measurements for the pin placements from some of my other attachments.
I used the premade materials because it was easier and relatively inexpensive. I had the holes cut and brackets made in less than an hour. Then I hand mixed many many batches of concrete in a wheelbarrow using an assortment of leftover cement types I had laying around. I used gravel and sand from piles I had left from other projects too. The whole project was done and mess cleaned up by 11:00 a.m., and didn't cost much at all.
I almost forgot... If you use the factory hole in the stabilizer bar for the toplink like I did, it is too large for the head of a toplink pin. I add a washer to the pin so it doesn't slide through the hole.

Ford850,

Thanks for the detailed repsonse. It will come in handy.

 

[Soundguy]

I believe I'd pass a pipe through the bottom instead of a rod...that way the rod insert could be replaced if bent or snapped.

Why design it to fail... IF I used a pipe thru it.. it would be a 3" one big enough to accept a drawbar.. not a small one for a 'replaceable rod to sacrafice now and then...

soundguy

 

[Skyco]

And how big are the ends on the drawbar? Weakest link. I can't see wasting a drawbar when an inexpensive steel rod will do...his original plan was to cast the rod into the barrel. I merely suggested using a pipe instead cast into the barrel to allow one to replace the rod if needed

 

[MikeD74T]

I made the mistake of putting my pins in the center of the barrel, on each side. This left the barrel balanced with almost no weight on the the toplink. When I inadvertantly hit the draft control lever the barrel lifted all the way up & bent the toplink to a 90 degree angle. If I were to build another I'd put the pins in the front third of the barrel. Also put a flat plate out thru the back to bolt/weld/attach a hitch to. MikeD74T

 

[Soundguy]

And how big are the ends on the drawbar? Weakest link. I can't see wasting a drawbar when an inexpensive steel rod will do...his original plan was to cast the rod into the barrel. I merely suggested using a pipe instead cast into the barrel to allow one to replace the rod if needed

While the pin on the drawbar is the weakest part of it.. I've jet to have one break off lifting a load on my 3pt.. so I don't think we need to worry about that here.

'Wasting" a drawbar??? How are we wasting it? Either we slide it thru a chase pipe and use it.. or we bolt it to the bottom.. those were the options I posted.

In one case, you simply 'slide it out' to recover it.. in the other case, you run 2 nuts off of studs ont he bottom.. then recover it.

can't see how this constitutes waste????

( casting it solid into the body of the weight might constitute waste.. etc.. but i didn't suggest that ).. and if you are going to the trouble to cast a pipe into it to hold a rod that you believe will need replacing.... might as well just use a bigger pipe and then slide a drawbar thru.. and not worry about the?flimsy? rod that you were worrying about being replaceable.

soundguy

 

[Skyco]

Well excuse the **** out of me. I'm not worried about anything to do with this. The OP asked for suggestions and I gave him one. Did I attack your plan which came later? NO
Sorry it didn't meet your "much more expensive solution" standards

 

[Bedlam]

I would say it wouldn't be 'wasted' if it were used , just another cost of materials for the project.Although myself would use some sort of scrap metal, and weld or bolt two new pins to it.
I don't believe there would be too much trouble anyways. I have a 55 gallon filled to the top, and used a piece of heavy angle iron to go on the bottom (in cement). On it I welded a bolt the diameter needed, and also slipped a tong of metal out the back for a trailer ball.
In my case I set the bottom about a third the way to center the barrel thus giving some weight to the rear so as to have weight pulling on the top link, I had to use a piece of PVC pipe for a form for the cement to create a "valley' for the top link to "reach' into in order to maintain the prober measurement .
. Been 10 years and no troubles. (knock on wood).
I did a search , as I thought I had seen these drawbars for about 15 dollars, but guess I was wrong.