55 Gal Rear Weight

   / 55 Gal Rear Weight #21  
Well excuse the **** out of me. I'm not worried about anything to do with this. The OP asked for suggestions and I gave him one. Did I attack your plan which came later? NO
Sorry it didn't meet your "much more expensive solution" standards :mad:

How more expensive?

A drawbar that can be reused and is not entrained into the concrete???

You are already suggesting buying a chase pipe for a replaceable bar.. one that you suppose will need to be replaced. how much money can we chalk up to bent replaceable bars? Which option seems more wastefull now? The one that needs replaceable bars.. or the one that doesn't?

In fact.. I believe the design that uses the easilly removable 3pt drawbar will be *cheaper*... Both designs need a chase pipe.. so the pipe cost is null between the 2 examples. The example needing the replaceable bar.. well.. sound slike you may be buying a bar.. then drilling it for lynch pins.. or threading the ends for nuts and washers to keep i on the 3pt arms. The version that uses the 3pt drawbar.. well.. I offer that many tractor users will already have a 3pt drawbar... it's probably one of the most used, and least thought about pieces of 3pt ( 2pt? ) equipment out there... all ready made and pre drilled for lynch pins.. no cutting or machining necescary to make it work.. vs the cut and machine to fit, replaceable bar option.

soundguy
 
   / 55 Gal Rear Weight #22  
Sigh. You win Mr. Soundguy. Not sure why you are making such an issue out of this.:confused:

My response to the OP said "I'd" pass a pipe through to contain the rod.
Didn't tell anyone else what to do. Merely stated what I'd do.

You also assume I'd BUY a pipe driving up the cost. Nope I'd use a piece of PVC pipe, which I have laying around. Even if it had to be bought the cost is insignificant.

Yes I'd have to BUY the rod, about $10, when I don't have a drawbar, don't want one, don't have a need for one and they are $25 and up.

Yes I'd also drill the ends for the lynch pins, that would take about 3 mins on my drill press.

You took exception to my belief a drawbar would be wasted. Merriam-Webster has the 4th definition of wasted as unprofitably used.
In my book that would include using a $25 part to do what a $10 part would do just as well, in MY case, if I was doing it, which I'm not.

If I can add 10cents cost to a project to make a part replaceable, in this case by using the through pipe, then that is the way I do things. As an additional benefit by using a pipe the rod could be withdrawn to allow the drum to be tipped on its side and rolled somewhere the tractor can't put it, for storage perhaps.

Satisfied now?:confused:
 
   / 55 Gal Rear Weight #23  
Here are a few pictures showing the drawbar through the barrel and the top link bracket I made from the stabilizer bar.
 

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   / 55 Gal Rear Weight #24  
Maybe think about adding some chain hooks or a ball receiver to the rear of the weight barrel. They could be handy for quick jobs that you do not need to remove the weight barrel for. :D:D

As for the construction there are many ways, all of which would be good. :D:D
 
   / 55 Gal Rear Weight #25  
Hi All,

I need to make a weight to hang of my 3pt hitch.

I'm sure you've thought of this, but wouldn't filling your rear tires accomplish the same thing? That's what I do and have never felt the need for extra ballast.
 
   / 55 Gal Rear Weight #26  
Sounds like you are making more of a deal out of it than I am.. you are the one that had to (bleep) out a word with asterisks in your reply.

I was also considering PVC pipe.. and I mentioned that since the chase pipe would be suitable for either the rod or the drawbar design.. that it was cost neutral.

IMHO.. if you own a tractor.. a drawbar is a great implement to own.. It's probably the cheapest one there is too..

And.. as for the 10$ vs the 25$.. if the purpose to use the 10$ one thru the pipe is to replace it.. then.. why not use the 25$ one and not worry about replacing it.. That time to replace it, and drill or tap the ends = tangible cost... My time isn't free.. nor is yours or the original posters.

I'm not sure why you are still campaigning 'FOR" the pipe... I'm in agreement with that.. I've stated so numerous times.. IE.. slide the drawbar thru the pipe.. that way it can be withdrawn and re0used.. and so, as you say.. you can roll the weight.

benefit the drawbat has is it is likely strong enough to not need to be repalced.. unlike the rod that may or may not be. ..

soundguy



Sigh. You win Mr. Soundguy. Not sure why you are making such an issue out of this.:confused:

My response to the OP said "I'd" pass a pipe through to contain the rod.
Didn't tell anyone else what to do. Merely stated what I'd do.

You also assume I'd BUY a pipe driving up the cost. Nope I'd use a piece of PVC pipe, which I have laying around. Even if it had to be bought the cost is insignificant.

Yes I'd have to BUY the rod, about $10, when I don't have a drawbar, don't want one, don't have a need for one and they are $25 and up.

Yes I'd also drill the ends for the lynch pins, that would take about 3 mins on my drill press.

You took exception to my belief a drawbar would be wasted. Merriam-Webster has the 4th definition of wasted as unprofitably used.
In my book that would include using a $25 part to do what a $10 part would do just as well, in MY case, if I was doing it, which I'm not.

If I can add 10cents cost to a project to make a part replaceable, in this case by using the through pipe, then that is the way I do things. As an additional benefit by using a pipe the rod could be withdrawn to allow the drum to be tipped on its side and rolled somewhere the tractor can't put it, for storage perhaps.

Satisfied now?:confused:
 
   / 55 Gal Rear Weight #27  
Here are a few pictures showing the drawbar through the barrel and the top link bracket I made from the stabilizer bar.


I made one just like that but did not use a drawbar. I instead used a piece of pipe and it bent so learn from my mistake. One thing I did do is bent up a piece of rebarb and place it in the center for a lift ring.

Chris
 
   / 55 Gal Rear Weight #28  
Peanut gallery.. oh yeah.. you're in it.... ;) as well are a few other posters here that I have to manually click 'view post' to read em...

The peanut gallery must speak up must they not!:D

The performer struts the stage wearing his coat of many sides. At a mere whim he can flip to another side and draw his foil of my side only words. The foil may strike first or last but only the Performer is allowed to judge that issue! Beware all you who dare to form your own opinion or you will be relegated to "The Performers Peanut gallery" by the tip of his foil!:rolleyes:

Skyco you must not disagree/argue with Soundman. He does not allow it. Do you wish to join me in the peanut gallery?:p
 
   / 55 Gal Rear Weight #29  
I'm sure you've thought of this, but wouldn't filling your rear tires accomplish the same thing? That's what I do and have never felt the need for extra ballast.

I have filled tires and don't have a problem with a filled bucket. However with forks on the front and a skid with 1/2 cord of firewood is a different story. Ithink because the load is further out front. The loader will lift it but the filled tires come off the ground. I usually just put the next implement on I think I am going to use.
 
   / 55 Gal Rear Weight #30  



Skyco you must not disagree/argue with Soundman. He does not allow it. Do you wish to join me in the peanut gallery?:p

See.. that's where you are 100% dead wrong. I don't ignore people whom i merely disagree with.. I ignore people who argue and pontificate for arguments sake, and chum the water, so to speak.. and offer more content free text, vs content rich text.

Skyco's in no danger of joining my ignore list merely for having a different opinion... That's just a good debate going on there... I disagree with lots of people who I otherwise consider friends.. It's the ones that just chime in to post a dig or a shot from right field that get the mute button.

soundguy
 
 

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