6000 clutch adjustment question

[Slippy]

I think my clutch is showing signs of wear. I moved 400 round bales over the weekend and noticed that I have to let the clutch almost all the way out to the top before the tractor will begin to move.
I read the manual at page 50 and it talks about clutch pedal adjustment of 4.7" between top edge of pedal pad & the foot plate. It says clutch free play should be 20mm at stopper pad. What does this mean and how do I measure it.

It says the way to adjust is to turn the release shaft till the inner bearings stop against the fingers. What does that mean?
Help please.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

I think my clutch is showing signs of wear. I moved 400 round bales over the weekend and noticed that I have to let the clutch almost all the way out to the top before the tractor will begin to move.
I read the manual at page 50 and it talks about clutch pedal adjustment of 4.7" between top edge of pedal pad & the foot plate. It says clutch free play should be 20mm at stopper pad. What does this mean and how do I measure it.

It says the way to adjust is to turn the release shaft till the inner bearings stop against the fingers. What does that mean?
Help please.

In inches, how much freeplay do you have at the top after you let out the clutch?? IE, once the clutch is let out; when you start to push it in, how far does the clutch pedal travel, before you notice pressure?

 

[Slippy]

It is constant. It feels the same at the top as it does midway and to the bottom.

 

[magyarbacsi]

Bob, it sounds like the clutch is not releasing an I would not drive it until it was adjusted. You can burn up the clutch that would require breaking the tractor down to get to it. I dont mean to offend you, but it sounds like you may not have the aptitude to do the work. I think what they mean is that the clutch fingers ride against the throw out bearing and there is a 20mm, gap required. There is 25.4 mm to an inch so you can do the conversion, approx. 3/4". There must be a plate on the bell housing that you can remove to get to the adjustment. I have a 5525 so it is different than yours.

There are two ajustments. The peddal should travel easily, with your hands, before you fill resistance. It should ravel easily through a given distance and that is called free play. On my 5525, this is acomplished via external adjustment. It sounds as your 6000 has to be done via clutch finger or the rod that engages the clutch. In that case look for a link that pushes against the cluthch lever and there should be adjusting screw ends that lengthen or shorten the rod and this will free up the movement. Again, I'm visualizing this and dont have your diagram. It may be cheaper in the long run to have a mechanic do it for you. A lot cheaper than having to split the tractor and do a major clutch job.

 

[magyarbacsi]

Bob, it sounds like the clutch is not releasing an I would not drive it until it was adjusted. You can burn up the clutch that would require breaking the tractor down to get to it. I dont mean to offend you, but it sounds like you may not have the aptitude to do the work. I think what they mean is that the clutch fingers ride against the throw out bearing and there is a 20mm, gap required. There is 25.4 mm to an inch so you can do the conversion, approx. 3/4". There must be a plate on the bell housing that you can remove to get to the adjustment. I have a 5525 so it is different than yours.

There are two ajustments. The peddal should travel easily, with your hands, before you fill resistance. It should ravel easily through a given distance and that is called free play. On my 5525, this is acomplished via external adjustment. It sounds as your 6000 has to be done via clutch finger or the rod that engages the clutch. In that case look for a link that pushes against the cluthch lever and there should be adjusting screw ends that lengthen or shorten the rod and this will free up the movement. Again, I'm visualizing this and dont have your diagram. It may be cheaper in the long run to have a mechanic do it for you. A lot cheaper than having to split the tractor and do a major clutch job.

 

[Slippy]

There is a lever that comes out from the side of the housing. This obviously works the enternal workings of the clutch. I assume what they want me to do is adjust the turnbuckle that connects to the lever coming out from the housing. It then says to rotate it till the inner bearings stop against the fingers. I assume that what that does is allow the clutch to be fully engaged so there is no pressure on the throw out bearing or clutch. Does that sound right?

 

[BobG_in_VA]

It is constant. It feels the same at the top as it does midway and to the bottom.

Slippy, your adjuster, there's a double ended threaded link rod from your clutch pedal to the trans case...this is where you adjust the freeplay...by the way, it should be right at 1 inch freeplay, ie. no pressure felt. Adjust that first to get your clutch so that it is fully engaged. PS, not sure why the other other poster named Bob as someone who might not know enough to handle the situation....I think I do...since I have a 6000...Plus the Service Manual, Plus the Parts Manual....plus the tools...plus the knowhow. BobG in VA

 

[Slippy]

Bob: Frankly, you have always been of significant help to me in my resolving my situations. Often I use basic concepts in posting that could easily give the impression that I don't know enough to fix it myself. But, I have found that with many posts if you don't start out that way, things can get off track, and sometimes it is not difficult to miss the obvious. I know exactly what you are referring to. I intended to release the trun buckle from the clutch lever that comes out of the bell housing. I was planning to shorten the trun buckle to make sure there is no pressure on the clutch lever. That will mean the clutch, throw out bearing and pressure plate are fully engaged. Then I was going to continue to shorten it until it resulted in a one inch free play as you push the pedel down. That free play will be resisted only by the spring tension and I should be able to see it move the one inch before the rest of the linkage and the clutch lever actually begin to move. Sound right? The directions in the manual are criptic at best.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Bob: Frankly, you have always been of significant help to me in my resolving my situations. Often I use basic concepts in posting that could easily give the impression that I don't know enough to fix it myself. But, I have found that with many posts if you don't start out that way, things can get off track, and sometimes it is not difficult to miss the obvious. I know exactly what you are referring to. I intended to release the trun buckle from the clutch lever that comes out of the bell housing. I was planning to shorten the trun buckle to make sure there is no pressure on the clutch lever. That will mean the clutch, throw out bearing and pressure plate are fully engaged. Then I was going to continue to shorten it until it resulted in a one inch free play as you push the pedel down. That free play will be resisted only by the spring tension and I should be able to see it move the one inch before the rest of the linkage and the clutch lever actually begin to move. Sound right? The directions in the manual are criptic at best.

You are correct sir. Good Luck. BobG in VA

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

You should be able to depress the clutch pedal 1" before you start feeling additional resistance. The lever on the linkage that attaches to the clutch internal machanisms will move as soon as you start depressing the pedal, but the additional resistance shouldn't start until the pedal has been depressed about 1".

 

[magyarbacsi]

Bob, my mistake. I meant to address the original poster and somehow got you confused. Sorry. As a matter of fact your replies are very informative.

Mea culpa a hundres times.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Bob, my mistake. I meant to address the original poster and somehow got you confused. Sorry. As a matter of fact your replies are very informative.

Mea culpa a hundres times.

No problemo...BobG

 

[indiana]

G'day all, hope you can offer me some advice. I realise this an old thread but I'm having problems engaging the clutch on a 6500, 170 hours on the clock. I've adjusted the clutch to its maximum setting over the months but freeplay is still around 4 inches. It's only when I remove the pedal stop bolt - to let the clutch pedal depress an extra 5mm that I can just engage the gears.
I spoke to a Mahindra dealer who suggested I should also adjust the pto clutch to balance both up, but I thought the pto clutch was independent - anyhows this side of things is working fine.
Would really appreciate any advice.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

G'day all, hope you can offer me some advice. I realise this an old thread but I'm having problems engaging the clutch on a 6500, 170 hours on the clock. I've adjusted the clutch to its maximum setting over the months but freeplay is still around 4 inches. It's only when I remove the pedal stop bolt - to let the clutch pedal depress an extra 5mm that I can just engage the gears.
I spoke to a Mahindra dealer who suggested I should also adjust the pto clutch to balance both up, but I thought the pto clutch was independent - anyhows this side of things is working fine.
Would really appreciate any advice.

Hmmmm.....4" freeplay??? You probably don't have hardly any clearance to the clutch pressure plate when you push the clutch in the rest of the way...What happens when you adjust the freeplay to 1" as the "book" calls for....are you saying that the clutch does not disengage at all?? by the way the PTO clutch and the trans/engine clutch are together in a "clutch pack". You need to have your dealer look at this, because you don't want to have to replace that pack (as well as I remember its not an insignifcant amount of money....BobG in VA

 

[indiana]

Hi Bob,
Thanks for your reply. The clutch adjustments nuts will not travel any further along so the minimum amount of freeplay I can get is 4", no less. It's only when I depress the clutch pedal for that remaining small amount I can put the tractor into gear. The tractor is still under warranty, but am just wondering if there are any other adjustments that can be made?

Thanks again.
Darren in Oz

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

I could be wrong but it sounds like you are going the wrong way with the adjustment. I am not there so I can't see what you are doing. As your clutch wears you should have less free pedal and usually you have to adjust it to get more. Just a thought for you to check.

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

I could be wrong but it sounds like you are going the wrong way with the adjustment. I am not there so I can't see what you are doing. As your clutch wears you should have less free pedal and usually you have to adjust it to get more. Just a thought for you to check.

 

[indiana]

Hi Galen,

Thanks for replying. If I spin the clutch jamnut and turnbuckle the opposite way to what I am doing, to see more of the threaded bolt and hence lengthen the clutch linkage, I get more freeplay. I have been shortening the linkage, and with the adjustment at present, there's no more threaded bolt to be seen as the jamnut and turnbuckle have been tightened up as far as they will travel, but still 4 inches of freeplay. Are there any other adjustments I can make? Would this be a symptom of oil on the clutch?

Darren

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

Hi Galen,

Thanks for replying. If I spin the clutch jamnut and turnbuckle the opposite way to what I am doing, to see more of the threaded bolt and hence lengthen the clutch linkage, I get more freeplay. I have been shortening the linkage, and with the adjustment at present, there's no more threaded bolt to be seen as the jamnut and turnbuckle have been tightened up as far as they will travel, but still 4 inches of freeplay. Are there any other adjustments I can make? Would this be a symptom of oil on the clutch?

Darren

Tomorrow, I will take a look at a 6000 and at the service manual, and see what I can see.

 

[Slippy]

You can try what I did. I disconnected the adjusting arm where it connects to the arm that goes into the housing. I want to see if there was any adjustment left for the clutch. Unless it is different from a car, my thought was that if adjusting the arm shorter would not allow the clutch to engage more, I had all the clutch I was going to get.

In other words, if you disconnect the arm, the clutch should rest in the fully engaged position, meaning the clutch plate and pressure plate are meshed together giving power to the drive train. The only thing I can see that the adjusting arm can provide is free play so that when you push on the clutch pedal, you have a little play before it begins to mechanically move the clutch parts. I could be wrong as I have put a clutch in a car, but never a tractor. As I recall, there is also a spring attached to the pedal, is it in place?