6011 vs 6013, Look of the weld...

   / 6011 vs 6013, Look of the weld... #51  
Does anyone have a good URL or link to a website that has a table for standard material sizes?

My steel supplier gives out these nice little pamphlet / booklet, and I have a Manual of Steel Construction for more detail. Maybe your steel supplier offers some type of pamphlet of what they supply.

I just found this link, click on the blue line and download their chart, looks pretty good!

A-1-A Steel - Steel Chart
 
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   / 6011 vs 6013, Look of the weld... #52  
Here is one more chart. I shop a couple of steel suppliers, but this one is the most helpful when I need advice on what to buy... even though I don't sound halfway intelligent. It's a local shop, but their product pages give a lot of info on what is out there.

Vernon Steel

I'd put my bet with Shield Arc's suggestion. Your local dealer probably has some kind of pamphlet or website with good information about what they stock.
 
   / 6011 vs 6013, Look of the weld... #53  
As others have said you have a problem and I think it is the brand of rod.. I only use lincoln I buy at Lows in 5lb boxes more expensive but they don't go bad
 
   / 6011 vs 6013, Look of the weld... #54  
So, for us non-professional welders, who want to 'dabble' with 7018 or in my case 7018AC. What is the best way to "keep" these rods viable, without the use of a rod oven? I know this isn't following the book, but it seems like lots of people are burning 7018 and don't seem to be opening a hermetically sealed batch/bundle each time.

All that's needed is a short piece of pvc pipe, a couple of end caps and some pvc cement. Make yourself a storage tube. The unglued 'top' cap will fit tight enough to keep moisture out..

This whole 'hydrogen embrittlement' "craze" about 7018 has been completely blown out of proportion. For a home/farm welder, it's of no concern..
 
   / 6011 vs 6013, Look of the weld...
  • Thread Starter
#55  
Thanks tb525! :thumbsup:

That's certainly easy enough to do.
 
   / 6011 vs 6013, Look of the weld... #56  
   / 6011 vs 6013, Look of the weld... #58  
All that's needed is a short piece of pvc pipe, a couple of end caps and some pvc cement. Make yourself a storage tube. The unglued 'top' cap will fit tight enough to keep moisture out..

This whole 'hydrogen embrittlement' "craze" about 7018 has been completely blown out of proportion. For a home/farm welder, it's of no concern..

Since everybody is talkin' about storing sticks, I've made a pvc storage tube, but I use a rubber plumbing cap that cinches up with a big hose clamp. Sometimes those unglued caps can get difficult to take off.

And since we're on the subject of storing 7018, would it be possible to "freshen up" 7018's in a toaster oven? They'll fit if you put 'em in diagonally, and those ovens can go up to at least 350 degrees, and the little ovens are dirt cheap at yard sales, etc. I'm speaking as a farm/hobby welder.
 
   / 6011 vs 6013, Look of the weld... #59  
And since we're on the subject of storing 7018, would it be possible to "freshen up" 7018's in a toaster oven? They'll fit if you put 'em in diagonally, and those ovens can go up to at least 350 degrees, and the little ovens are dirt cheap at yard sales, etc. I'm speaking as a farm/hobby welder.

I do not fool with 7018, but do use a toaster oven scavenged from the trash for free to quickly freshen up other rods that have gotten damp. You are correct, that it is a tight fit but they will go in there. Regardless, better than the wife beating you might get if opted to use the wife's kitchen oven.
 
   / 6011 vs 6013, Look of the weld... #60  
I'm not an accomplished welder. Things hold but don't look very pretty.

On that note, I was working on a small project I've been meaning to get at for quite a while, a 2" reese unit for my 3pt hitch on my tractors. I've seen a lot of neat units on here and thought I'd finally craft my own.

Here's my questions:

1) I know that 6011 is touted for penetration, but where does 6013 stand? Is it almost as good, equal, or not even close?

2) When I use 6011, it fights me the whole time. I try and adjust the amperage on my tombstone but it seems to go from to cold/hard to start to spitting fire and to hot. When I am able to strike an arc and work on a bead, it's lumpy and plain ugly. It doesn't have a nice scallop to it at all. What's the 'secret' to getting a nice bead? Yes, I know practice, practice, practice, but I'd like to practicing something that is moving in a positive direction and not ingraining bad habits.

3) For general fabrication work on standard thickness of materials, do you tend to use 3/32" or 1/8" rod?


I had some 6013 rod and decided to give it a try. It was a night and day difference. Bead was beautiful, for me; arc was easy to strike and control. I was able to build up where I wanted to lay down multiple passes and everything looks nice and well mixed. 6011 always makes my multi passes look like individual passes lying next to each other.

I was just wondering if other people were experiencing the same thing.

Thanks to all who are willing to pass along some of their learned knowledge.

As to the original question

6011: Is basically an AC version of 6010 it can also be used DCRP
It is a penetration rod for welding dirty rust or painted material or were deep penetration is needed also for root welds it is an all position rod


6013: Is a high deposition rod used for thin material and has low penetration. I use it for stuff i'd rather mig but can't in the field


7018: i use for most work doing repair and fabrication it is tough and can stand up to high impact stress and strain of heavy equipment repairs
it's best used DCRP but can be used AC


7024: Is also a high deposition rod flat only rod
I use it for large fillet welds 3/4 and 1 inch thick steel after i do the root weld with 6010 or sometimes 7018
with my TB 302 AP i can run 3/16 rod at 300 to 350 amps and really fill it fast
 

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