6013 break test!

[Mark @ Everlast]

I wonder if a cold/damp 7018 would not have performed similarly?:drool:

 

[eastexan]

I wonder if a cold/damp 7018 would not have performed similarly?:drool:

I was wondering the same thing.
Many of us here are non professionals and don't have a real rod oven, and the rods may set in cabinets for months at a time. And many use 7018 right out of non sealed packages bought at a big box store or TSC.

Also, since there is a lot said about 7014 and 6011, I would like to see how it compares.

 

[Shield Arc]

Also, since there is a lot said about 7014 and 6011, I would like to see how it compares.

Those were asked for on another site, stay tuned, I'll post the results when I do the test.

 

[eastexan]

Those were asked for on another site, stay tuned, I'll post the results when I do the test.

Great! Much appreciated. :thumbsup:

 

[kaferhaus]

Maybe my eyes are gettin bad but the penetration doesn't look very deep to me. Around here you get canned pretty quick if that weld failed so easily.

Granted it's only welded on one side but the root is awful shallow to my eyes, could be the pics...

Also proves the point that pretty welds don't really mean much about the value of the weld.

But ya gotta look good too!

 

[Shield Arc]

Maybe my eyes are gettin bad but the penetration doesn't look very deep to me. Around here you get canned pretty quick if that weld failed so easily.

Granted it's only welded on one side but the root is awful shallow to my eyes, could be the pics...

Also proves the point that pretty welds don't really mean much about the value of the weld.

But ya gotta look good too!

That is a known problem with 6013, it is known for shallow penetration! Why some call it a sheet metal rod.

 

[eastexan]

I worked for one of the largest railroads back in the '80s, and 6013 was prohibited from being used on locomotives and freight cars.

This test proves the reason why.
Kudo's to Shield Arc :thumbsup:

 

[JB4310]

Well it is rated 10,000 psi less than 70 rod, but I wouldn't of expected it to fail so easily.

I rarely use 60 anything, I have some but never had good luck with it. Now I will just stick to my 7014, 18 and 24 with the emphasis on the 18.

With my new to me DC machine, I'm realising more and more that for 95% of my needs, 1/8" 7018 is all I need. It does everything I need it to do and does it well.

JB.

 

[weldermike]

Been watchimg this thread, and still dont understand what you guys are looking for! Not trying to upset anyone, trust me, PLEASE! But the harder metals(the weld) will always break easier under impact than the lesser metals (mild steel base, which is less maleable, meaning flexible, do to carbon). Weld both sides and you will swing a hammer till you break the handle. Just imagin if you took a half inch plate and wizz wheeled a 1/4 groove out of it, put it in a vise and smacked it with a big hammer, it would be basically the same thing, but with a softer steel which is a littlle stretchier so to speak, may take a little wigglin to separate. Dont mean to rock the boat guys, please dont take offense! I weld for a living, and im just speaking from experience.

 

[Shield Arc]

weldermike I know exactly what you're saying. Realistically the test doesn't prove a thing, too many variables, like the amount of force applied by my arm. I just thought it was strange that 6013 broke so easy! But passed a coupon bend test. My understanding of the fillet weld test was just a quick and easy way to see the inside of the weld. I know when Innershield wire came out we had a hard time learning where to set the machines. We used engine drives for power source, with a wire feed. We would adjust the machine to the best of our ability, then run a quick and dirty fillet weld test so we could see the inside of the weld just for a looks see.

Here's the 6013 bend coupons.