Rear Blade 7' Rear Blade with Hydraulic Angle and Offset

[MtnViewRanch]

My only slight complaint is with the geometry, with the top link properly adjusted there isn't alot of travel (lift) left on the 3-pt, I can only raise it 4-6" off the ground.
Bri

By chance, are there various holes for your side links to be set in that would change the height so that your 3 point would be able to lift the blade higher? A lot of times the U shaped piece at the bottom of the side link has various holes for that purpose and or there might be a hole or two in the bottom links that would change things also.

Something else to look for.

Post some pics, that would be the best.

 

[AKfish]

Note that with full hydraulics including tail/gauge wheel, four (4) rear remotes are required.

One other thing, if you read the manual carefully, it says "important ...you can leave off the toplink when using the gauge wheel" ...perhaps it means to say, you should/must disconnect the top link. In fact, if you can visualize the geometry, when I lower the gauge wheel to keep the blade just above the surface (as for snow on gravel drive) the gauge wheel fights the top link. I don't want to disconnect the top link because I need it to get the height in travel/carry condition. A chain would work, I suppose, but I have T&T and want to keep the hydraulic top link. My solution is to use a swinging top link in between ...in fact, it is the top link adapter part often discussed with respect to the Harbor Freight quick hitch ...and, that bit of play seems to do the trick.

This is a very good thread... but I can't visualize what JoeL4330 has for a setup either. Four remotes - there's 4 cylinders on the blade??
And the top link question --- "swinging top link in between"? Can't get my head around that..

It'd be great to see pics of both setups. Skid feet vs gauge wheel, etc. I've got a 7' rear blade with Top n Tilt. I leave it offset about a foot but have found that I need another foot offset to really work along the shoulder of the road.

So, an 8' blade with hydraulic capabilities would be the Cat's PJ's. (Can't imagine how I'd ever hook up that 4th cylinder, though.)

AKfish

 

[MJPetersen]

And the top link question --- "swinging top link in between"? Can't get my head around that.

The "swinging top link" is an adapter or extender for the top link. It is a wishbone shape to connect between the top link cylinder and the implement. Something similar is often used with the HF quick hitch to connect the top link to the implement. The result is a little give in compression but would be active on lift. The effect would not be as dramatic as using a chain for the top link, but still provide some flex.

Mike

 

[JoeL4330]

This is a very good thread... but I can't visualize what JoeL4330 has for a setup either. Four remotes - there's 4 cylinders on the blade??
And the top link question --- "swinging top link in between"? Can't get my head around that..

It'd be great to see pics of both setups. Skid feet vs gauge wheel, etc. I've got a 7' rear blade with Top n Tilt. I leave it offset about a foot but have found that I need another foot offset to really work along the shoulder of the road.

So, an 8' blade with hydraulic capabilities would be the Cat's PJ's. (Can't imagine how I'd ever hook up that 4th cylinder, though.)

AKfish

well, it's warm and sunny, so I will try and take pics. The answer to "4" is: angle, tilt, offset, gauge/tail wheel.
(and, I also have T&T ...but, have 6 rear remotes installed)

The "swinging top link" is as was described above. The reason: if you go to the landpride website and look in the owner's/operator's manual for the hydraulic gauge wheel, you will see an admonition/suggestion about removing the toplink. The reason is that extending/lowering the tailwheel wants to raise the blade slightly, which fights the (rigid) toplink. I did not want to lose the hydraulic toplink feature (which you need to raise the blade appreciably for travel, so I use the wishbone-shaped link (which I ordered from HF).

I have a befco finish mower with the same swinging link, and also my rotary cutter ...needed because the back of the mower wants to kick up, depending on the terrain, and it would fight the otherwise rigid toplink. ( ...see my feeble drawing)

And, yes, the 8ft fully hydraulic is the cat's PJs ...but, it is awfully heavy (and I have it on a Kubota Grand L4330) ...but with all that weight, it cuts beautifully and I particularly wanted the very large offset that it is capable of (and, incidentally, that means that the blade sits far back from the tractor so there is quite a moment on the tph, between the weight and the long lever arm)

sorry for the length of the post ...will try for pics.

 

[JoeL4330]

Some quick pics, the blade, the swinging link, and some tractor helpers

 

[MtnViewRanch]

JoeL4330, From the looks of the pictures, your blade looks like it might be a bit big for your tractor. That's not to say that it doesn't work great, it just looks a bit big for the tractor to me. How high does your tractor lift the blade off the ground? Is it an RBT35 or RBT40 series blade?

Just wondering what people are using with their tractors.

 

[JoeL4330]

It's an RBT3596, the lighter series vs. the 45. In fact, I held off buying until the fully hydraulic 35 was announced. I wanted the large offset, and wanted an 8-footer to cover my wide turfs when it was angled. But, you are right, it is at the upper range of what the tractor is comfortable with.

As for how high the tractor can lift it, that really depends on the length of the toplink. I have a hydraulic toplink and, with it fully retracted, I get good lift. Since I added the swinging link, I have had to shorten up the toplink even further, and may get a shorter hyd.Toplink to compensate.

As for appearances, remember to account for the wide angle lens I used for the picture.

As for weight, every other thread talks about the need to add weight to a BB or RB ...no need, here. In fact, this is not the heaviest implement I have. I have a large RoadRunner grader with a hydraulic roller on the tail end. Again, no need to add weight and with the roller extended, the full weight of the implement is on it so it really compacts.

 

[brianidaho]

Sorry about the lack of pics, Joel's pretty well says it all. I'll get some the next time I have a day off and can get some in daylight. We've been slammed with snow, somewhere around 80" in the last couple of weeks, lots of seat time, not a lot for pics. And we have another 6" today! Global warming my butt!

As to the lift issue, as you can see in Joel's pics, the long square tube that mounts the blade (between the 3PT attachment points) is high to allow the blade to swing 180* under it, this makes the front mounting points high. To make the bade swing "flat" this tube must be horizontal, the only way to do so is with the top link adjusted pretty long. The hydraulic top link would be nice, you could suck it in for travel. Of course this makes for lots of rear remotes! Angle, offset, tilt, guage wheel and now toplink. This whole issue isn't as big a deal with hydraulic tilt (which I don't have)-you can keep the top link short and compensate with the tilt cylinder. I have to switch working directions too often when doing snow, it would get old doing this manually. I should pull the tilt adjuster, put in some limit straps (chains) and allow the tilt to float, I haven't gone there yet.

I need to check into what MtnViewRanch has suggested as well. It's finally warm enough that it isn't bad to spend time outside.

Joel, where did you get the swinging link? I have been looking for something similar. A chain would work fine, just looks a little more redneck engineered than I like. I understand the need with guage wheels. Also, how did you pull off 6 remotes? AFAIK Kubota only offers 3, did you go with solenoids? I might have to add the cushion valves...should have right off, but I'm pretty well tapped dry now.

 

[JoeL4330]

The "wishbone" is the toplink adapter for Harbor Freight's quick hitch ...it doesn't seem to show up on their website, you have to call ...I don't have the part number handy but other threads on the HF QH have discussed it.

As for 6 rear remotes, dealer installed the Kubota kit of three (on the right in the pic) and then subsequently intalled the second set of three (higher up and on left in pic) ...don't know the exact details, but can probably get them for you ...I don't believe either set of 3 is related to PB on loader (on which I also have a WRLong electric hydraulic "third function" (for a grapple and/or tree shear). The only "trick" with the second triplet was where to mount the spools/levers.

 

[djradz]

Some tractor have the capability to relocate the attaching point of the 3-pt lower arms so that the entire assembly starts off a little higher. Combine this with shorting the forks might help. Another option could be bigger rear tires, such as ags or R4s. Obviously, a bigger tractor would be the ultimate.

 

[GeneD14]

You would think that a bigger tractor would lift the rear blade off the ground alot higher. With my M95, the main beam level on the blade, lift arms up all of the way, it's only about 5" off the ground.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

You would think that a bigger tractor would lift the rear blade off the ground alot higher. With my M95, the main beam level on the blade, lift arms up all of the way, it's only about 5" off the ground.

A couple of things, first, it looks like you need a shorter top link. Maybe it is just the picture, but your main beam should be able to be parallel to the ground, and to me it looks like it slants away from your tractor a bit.

Second thing, you are going to bend that blade for sure. The blade itself looks to be less heavy duty than the Mid West blade that I bent. The blade that I bent was 5/16 on the blade with a 2x6 channel welded on full width for added support-bracing. I not only bent the blade backwards, but also started to straighten the forward curve out of the blade.

I know that it is a lot of money, but as has been suggested before, it might be best to try and return that blade and get a much more substantial one. That blade will not hold up to your M95.

Sorry for the lecture again, I won't bring it up again.

 

[GeneD14]

A couple of things, first, it looks like you need a shorter top link. Maybe it is just the picture, but your main beam should be able to be parallel to the ground, and to me it looks like it slants away from your tractor a bit.

Second thing, you are going to bend that blade for sure. The blade itself looks to be less heavy duty than the Mid West blade that I bent. The blade that I bent was 5/16 on the blade with a 2x6 channel welded on full width for added support-bracing. I not only bent the blade backwards, but also started to straighten the forward curve out of the blade.

I know that it is a lot of money, but as has been suggested before, it might be best to try and return that blade and get a much more substantial one. That blade will not hold up to your M95.

Sorry for the lecture again, I won't bring it up again.

I used a torpedo level to adjust the beam while the tractor was in the barn on the level concrete. The angle of the picture distorts the picture a little.

As for needing a heavier blade: I agree with you. I talked with my salesman yesterday and he said if I wanted to buy a bigger blade he would give me full credit for mine when I return it and purchase the new one. Here is my problem: The next size up that he quoted in a Landpride is an RB40 for $2,500. It is rated for 100 HP but only 9,500 GVW. (My tractor is over 12,000 lbs. So he looked at the next size above that one: an RB45 which is the heaviest 8' blade they sell and is rated for 120 hp and only 9,500 gvw which still is to light for my tractor. The next size above that is the RBT55 and it is rated at 180 hp and 15,000 gvw. But two big problems: it is 120" wide and won't fit through my barn doors and it is over $5,000...YIKES!!!! Way, way over budget for now.
So the plan right now is to just use the current blade for snow removal and not use it for heavy earth work. I usually use a box blade to move dirt and stone with anyway. I am floored by the price of some cat II implements. Thanks,

 

[djradz]

I'd have to agree, the top-link is quite long. The only reason I can see to have it that way is to be sure you don't gouge/shave/dig-in when going forward, so you're running the blade "on its heels". Backblading it won't make any difference.

The structure/frame of the blade looks fairly heavy-duty, and I know Gill/Woods makes great stuff, but it's a little dissapointing to see an 8' blade without more support/strength in the moldboard/blade itself. Bending it will probably depend on what, if anything, you hit or attempt to move with it.

 

[GeneD14]

The structure/frame of the blade looks fairly heavy-duty, and I know Gill/Woods makes great stuff, but it's a little dissapointing to see an 8' blade without more support/strength in the moldboard/blade itself. Bending it will probably depend on what, if anything, you hit or attempt to move with it.

Because I have a gravel drive I plow the snow off in reverse otherwise it digs up to much stone. The good news is that using the reverse side of the blade lessens the chance of snagging it on something and bending it. The bad news is that I have noticed Murphy's Law making surpise appearances in my daily life from tiime to time.

 

[djradz]

What about the Woods 990 and 1010 - 100>150 hp rated? Seems like you can't get hardly anything that is Gill anymore. Not sure if Woods discontinued the name or not.

 

[GeneD14]

djradz,

By the way I saw you are from S,. Central MI. 2 years ago I moved from Charlotte, MI. Great area to live and raise a family.

 

[GeneD14]

What about the Woods 990 and 1010 - 100>150 hp rated? Seems like you can't get hardly anything that is Gill anymore. Not sure if Woods discontinued the name or not.

I did't go any further with Woods pricing, because my salesman said they were more expensive than Landpride. That could be another option to check out though.
My new blade says Gill on it and I saw a few other medium duty Woods implements still use the Gill name with Woods under it in smaller print.

 

[AKfish]

Some quick pics, the blade, the swinging link, and some tractor helpers

Really appreciate the pics. (And your drawing of the HF top-link adapter, too.) Made everything very understandable.

Didn't see the blade offset cylinder, though. Assume it is covered inside the square channel along the rear of the blade...? (Although, it occurred to me as I wrote that - how could you reverse the blade?)

The hydraulic cushion valve is a new one on me, too. Learnin' somethin' all the time here on TBN!

Haven't got a very clear idea of what your Kubota dealer did to make all those hydraulic couplers available... My JD has the electric diverter with 3 functions front and rear. If I'm using the FEL the rear ones are not available. A quick click on the loader handle and I can switch back and forth - but all six available at the same time?? Probably have to tap into the Power Beyond circuit.

Thanks again. Great thread.

AKfish

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I used a torpedo level to adjust the beam while the tractor was in the barn on the level concrete. The angle of the picture distorts the picture a little.

As for needing a heavier blade: I agree with you. I talked with my salesman yesterday and he said if I wanted to buy a bigger blade he would give me full credit for mine when I return it and purchase the new one. Here is my problem: The next size up that he quoted in a Landpride is an RB40 for $2,500. It is rated for 100 HP but only 9,500 GVW. (My tractor is over 12,000 lbs. So he looked at the next size above that one: an RB45 which is the heaviest 8' blade they sell and is rated for 120 hp and only 9,500 gvw which still is to light for my tractor. The next size above that is the RBT55 and it is rated at 180 hp and 15,000 gvw. But two big problems: it is 120" wide and won't fit through my barn doors and it is over $5,000...YIKES!!!! Way, way over budget for now.
So the plan right now is to just use the current blade for snow removal and not use it for heavy earth work. I usually use a box blade to move dirt and stone with anyway. I am floored by the price of some cat II implements. Thanks,

GeneD14, your dealer has old info, just like mine did. these guys don't even read the new brochures that they get. I have a RBT45108. This blade is also available as an RBT4596 at 1130lbs. These blades are rated at 125hp and 15,000lbs GVW.
I believe that the only difference from these and the RBT55120 is the width of the blade. My boom and hitch look the same as the 55 series to me. My blade was about $3800, no hydraulics. I don't care much for the tie rod cylinders that LP uses,so I am putting my own welded cylinders and hoses on.

Just some more info, still a lot of money though. Although if you were to get full credit on the Woods blade, then you could get the right blade for maybe another $2500? If or when you see the Land Pride 45 series, you will see that it is plenty tough enough.