Rear Blade 7' Rear Blade with Hydraulic Angle and Offset

   / 7' Rear Blade with Hydraulic Angle and Offset #31  
You would think that a bigger tractor would lift the rear blade off the ground alot higher. With my M95, the main beam level on the blade, lift arms up all of the way, it's only about 5" off the ground.
 

Attachments

  • M95 Rear Blade.jpg
    M95 Rear Blade.jpg
    62.9 KB · Views: 1,049
   / 7' Rear Blade with Hydraulic Angle and Offset #32  
You would think that a bigger tractor would lift the rear blade off the ground alot higher. With my M95, the main beam level on the blade, lift arms up all of the way, it's only about 5" off the ground.

A couple of things, first, it looks like you need a shorter top link. Maybe it is just the picture, but your main beam should be able to be parallel to the ground, and to me it looks like it slants away from your tractor a bit.

Second thing, you are going to bend that blade for sure. The blade itself looks to be less heavy duty than the Mid West blade that I bent. The blade that I bent was 5/16 on the blade with a 2x6 channel welded on full width for added support-bracing. I not only bent the blade backwards, but also started to straighten the forward curve out of the blade. :eek:

I know that it is a lot of money, but as has been suggested before, it might be best to try and return that blade and get a much more substantial one. That blade will not hold up to your M95.

Sorry for the lecture again, I won't bring it up again.
 
   / 7' Rear Blade with Hydraulic Angle and Offset #33  
A couple of things, first, it looks like you need a shorter top link. Maybe it is just the picture, but your main beam should be able to be parallel to the ground, and to me it looks like it slants away from your tractor a bit.

Second thing, you are going to bend that blade for sure. The blade itself looks to be less heavy duty than the Mid West blade that I bent. The blade that I bent was 5/16 on the blade with a 2x6 channel welded on full width for added support-bracing. I not only bent the blade backwards, but also started to straighten the forward curve out of the blade. :eek:

I know that it is a lot of money, but as has been suggested before, it might be best to try and return that blade and get a much more substantial one. That blade will not hold up to your M95.

Sorry for the lecture again, I won't bring it up again.

I used a torpedo level to adjust the beam while the tractor was in the barn on the level concrete. The angle of the picture distorts the picture a little.

As for needing a heavier blade: I agree with you. I talked with my salesman yesterday and he said if I wanted to buy a bigger blade he would give me full credit for mine when I return it and purchase the new one. Here is my problem: The next size up that he quoted in a Landpride is an RB40 for $2,500. It is rated for 100 HP but only 9,500 GVW. (My tractor is over 12,000 lbs. :( So he looked at the next size above that one: an RB45 which is the heaviest 8' blade they sell and is rated for 120 hp and only 9,500 gvw which still is to light for my tractor. The next size above that is the RBT55 and it is rated at 180 hp and 15,000 gvw. But two big problems: it is 120" wide and won't fit through my barn doors and it is over $5,000...YIKES!!!! Way, way over budget for now.
So the plan right now is to just use the current blade for snow removal and not use it for heavy earth work. I usually use a box blade to move dirt and stone with anyway. I am floored by the price of some cat II implements. Thanks,
 
   / 7' Rear Blade with Hydraulic Angle and Offset #34  
I'd have to agree, the top-link is quite long. The only reason I can see to have it that way is to be sure you don't gouge/shave/dig-in when going forward, so you're running the blade "on its heels". Backblading it won't make any difference.

The structure/frame of the blade looks fairly heavy-duty, and I know Gill/Woods makes great stuff, but it's a little dissapointing to see an 8' blade without more support/strength in the moldboard/blade itself. Bending it will probably depend on what, if anything, you hit or attempt to move with it.
 
   / 7' Rear Blade with Hydraulic Angle and Offset #35  
The structure/frame of the blade looks fairly heavy-duty, and I know Gill/Woods makes great stuff, but it's a little dissapointing to see an 8' blade without more support/strength in the moldboard/blade itself. Bending it will probably depend on what, if anything, you hit or attempt to move with it.

Because I have a gravel drive I plow the snow off in reverse otherwise it digs up to much stone. The good news is that using the reverse side of the blade lessens the chance of snagging it on something and bending it. The bad news is that I have noticed Murphy's Law making surpise appearances in my daily life from tiime to time. :)
 
   / 7' Rear Blade with Hydraulic Angle and Offset #36  
What about the Woods 990 and 1010 - 100>150 hp rated? Seems like you can't get hardly anything that is Gill anymore. Not sure if Woods discontinued the name or not.
 
   / 7' Rear Blade with Hydraulic Angle and Offset #37  
djradz,

By the way I saw you are from S,. Central MI. 2 years ago I moved from Charlotte, MI. Great area to live and raise a family.
 
   / 7' Rear Blade with Hydraulic Angle and Offset #38  
What about the Woods 990 and 1010 - 100>150 hp rated? Seems like you can't get hardly anything that is Gill anymore. Not sure if Woods discontinued the name or not.

I did't go any further with Woods pricing, because my salesman said they were more expensive than Landpride. That could be another option to check out though.
My new blade says Gill on it and I saw a few other medium duty Woods implements still use the Gill name with Woods under it in smaller print.
 
   / 7' Rear Blade with Hydraulic Angle and Offset #39  
Some quick pics, the blade, the swinging link, and some tractor helpers

Really appreciate the pics. (And your drawing of the HF top-link adapter, too.) Made everything very understandable.

Didn't see the blade offset cylinder, though. Assume it is covered inside the square channel along the rear of the blade...? (Although, it occurred to me as I wrote that - how could you reverse the blade?)

The hydraulic cushion valve is a new one on me, too. Learnin' somethin' all the time here on TBN!

Haven't got a very clear idea of what your Kubota dealer did to make all those hydraulic couplers available... My JD has the electric diverter with 3 functions front and rear. If I'm using the FEL the rear ones are not available. A quick click on the loader handle and I can switch back and forth - but all six available at the same time?? Probably have to tap into the Power Beyond circuit.

Thanks again. Great thread.

AKfish
 
   / 7' Rear Blade with Hydraulic Angle and Offset #40  
I used a torpedo level to adjust the beam while the tractor was in the barn on the level concrete. The angle of the picture distorts the picture a little.

As for needing a heavier blade: I agree with you. I talked with my salesman yesterday and he said if I wanted to buy a bigger blade he would give me full credit for mine when I return it and purchase the new one. Here is my problem: The next size up that he quoted in a Landpride is an RB40 for $2,500. It is rated for 100 HP but only 9,500 GVW. (My tractor is over 12,000 lbs. :( So he looked at the next size above that one: an RB45 which is the heaviest 8' blade they sell and is rated for 120 hp and only 9,500 gvw which still is to light for my tractor. The next size above that is the RBT55 and it is rated at 180 hp and 15,000 gvw. But two big problems: it is 120" wide and won't fit through my barn doors and it is over $5,000...YIKES!!!! Way, way over budget for now.
So the plan right now is to just use the current blade for snow removal and not use it for heavy earth work. I usually use a box blade to move dirt and stone with anyway. I am floored by the price of some cat II implements. Thanks,

GeneD14, your dealer has old info, just like mine did. these guys don't even read the new brochures that they get. I have a RBT45108. This blade is also available as an RBT4596 at 1130lbs. These blades are rated at 125hp and 15,000lbs GVW.
I believe that the only difference from these and the RBT55120 is the width of the blade. My boom and hitch look the same as the 55 series to me. My blade was about $3800, no hydraulics. I don't care much for the tie rod cylinders that LP uses,so I am putting my own welded cylinders and hoses on.

Just some more info, still a lot of money though. Although if you were to get full credit on the Woods blade, then you could get the right blade for maybe another $2500? If or when you see the Land Pride 45 series, you will see that it is plenty tough enough.
 
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2007 CAT 904B (A47384)
2007 CAT 904B (A47384)
John Deere 843 Corn Head (A50514)
John Deere 843...
2016 Ford Fusion Sedan (A50324)
2016 Ford Fusion...
2025 Swict 84in Bucket Skid Steer Attachment (A50322)
2025 Swict 84in...
2015 LINK-BELT 235X3 SPIN ACE EXCAVATOR (A50854)
2015 LINK-BELT...
2007 Chevrolet C4500 4x4 Dump Truck, VIN # 1GBE4C3247F411826 (A51572)
2007 Chevrolet...
 
Top