7018 vs 6013 vs everything else

   / 7018 vs 6013 vs everything else #41  
6010 is DC only (and 6011 is its AC equivalent but will never be spec'd for code work). Both are deep penetrating but most importantly fast freezing so they excel at putting metal where there is none like open roots in pipe. Other rods do not always work as well or as easy for this. Also, these rods can handle dirt/rusty metal.

As for why all the rod types: Well each rod has properties that are tailorable to the application and will have benefits that you can use to your advantage for the weld joint . 6013 for example is a very light penetrator so very suitable for thin sheet without burning through. Some rods are more ductile than others so that can be an advantage. Price is a not a factor at all for me as a 5lb box or a 10lb box are basically same price whether 6011, 6013, 7014, and even 7018AC that I buy.

Often though it comes down to your power source. Many cheap power sources definitely will not run 6010 or 7018. 7018AC may run on some cheaper units. Pretty much any power source can run 6011, 6013, 7014, and to an extent 7018AC. That is why all the big box stores stock only these rods for the most part and it is because these rods will run on almost any machine. From here it is use the rod that your skill set can personally run and best suited on the joint design you are welding up. Frankly, I can not weld overhead to save my life, but if I have to do it then I will use 6011 and 6011 is by far my least favorite rod to run for me personally but I would need the fast freeze propterties of 6011 to have any hopes of success at it and even then it will not be pretty. Dirty rusty metal - again 6011. Crude backyard machining - I like 6013. Some exotic alloy steel then I like 7018AC. Overall ease of use that many people call it "idiot rod" cause it so easy - then give me 7014.
 
   / 7018 vs 6013 vs everything else
  • Thread Starter
#42  
Not knowing that 6010 is DC only, I used some the other day on AC... figured it was close to 6011 I bet it will work. It did. Ugly but did the job on the rust junk I was working on.

I plan to check the welder at work tomorrow... will post it's info, and likely use a lot of new info gained from everybody's input in this thread. Likely to be repairing rusted out frame crossmember on the F350 flatbed at work, then cab corners and rocker panels on it and a F250 ext cab. I do a little bit of everything...
 
   / 7018 vs 6013 vs everything else #43  
I'd likely opt for the 7018, and use 7014 or 6013 for tacking things, mainly due to ease of restart

I use 7018 for most things, but like to use either 6013 or 7014 for tackup, and use 7014 for filling holes.

My DC welder will run 7018 very well, and the welds look the best using it, and it is heck for stout, so why not use it. ?
It is not the easiest for tacking up, and if the metal is nasty and I don't want to take the time to clean it well, I use 6011.
But for most welds I use 7018
 
   / 7018 vs 6013 vs everything else #44  
I was the project superintendent on this project in California. We built 1-mile of pipe tray on the other side of the causeway in this picture. The welding inspectors would not allow the guy in the rigging gang to tack with anything but 7018. And the 7018 had to be kept in an oven. We had to have 3-ovens on site, and keep a log book for each oven on how many pounds of rod was removed from which oven, how many pounds were put back in the which oven at night, along with times. All just to tack,:rolleyes: the welding crew were all using wire feeders.
General Construction Company
 
   / 7018 vs 6013 vs everything else #45  
Generally 6010 is used for tacking but for tacks under stress, 7018 is used. 7018 is also used for "hot tacking" where you make a tack and then hit it to suck the pieces together. Common for filling slight gaps in fit up.

Now with Innershield, like I'm guessing was used on Shield Arcs project, specific rods are often specified for tacking prior to welding over them with Innershield. I remember when I used Innershield, that certain rods had to used for tacking so you didn't get porosity or other flaws when the tacks were welded over. This could be the reason for having a very strict regimen regarding the 7018 used for tacking. Could you imagine having to go back and grind out where every tack was to make repairs?:pullinghair::censored::duh:
 
   / 7018 vs 6013 vs everything else #46  
On that project I wanted to use Hobart's 21-B. But I couldn't get Hobart to give me a definitive answer in writing to how much wind was allowable. The refinery's welding inspectors had never been around gas less fluxcore before, so they were really holding my feet to the fire with every little detail.:rolleyes: We used Lincoln's NR-212, because Lincoln would give a definitive answer to the amount of wind that was allowable.
Strange, in 1982 I used NR-211 on a project in Alaska with 90-MPH winds and no one said a word about too much wind!:confused3:
 
   / 7018 vs 6013 vs everything else #47  
"Strange, in 1982 I used NR-211 on a project in Alaska with 90-MPH winds and no one said a word about too much wind!"

They were either too impressed that you could weld in 90 MPH winds!;)... or staying inside to be out of them.:D
 
   / 7018 vs 6013 vs everything else #48  
The welding inspector wasn't the sharpest tool in the shed. One day he came up to me and through a little hissy fit, said I was preheating before welding. I laughed at him and said do you see any snow on the ones in front of me you dip ****? :rolleyes:
 
   / 7018 vs 6013 vs everything else #50  
that's not always the case, its not always who you KNOW, its who you.........
 

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