850 with 3 point problem

[wolftree]

You have it correct, let it run where it wants to. I have had a few that way as well. Keep an eye on your temperature gauge now that you trust it. Keep the radiator blown out of chaff.

 

[Henri88]

I agree with Wolftree. I've had that problem on a Hough 60 payloader with an International engine. I just let it settle and had no issues of overheating. My only question to you is, have you replace the cap with the same pressure rating that was on the old one, or have you check what is recommended for that model. In all these year, there is a possibility that the cap was replace with the wrong specs.

 

[lilburr]

This overheating problem on my 850 is still hanging around. Temp gauge reached ~ 250 Saturday as I was testing and tooling around with some rather light duty chores, including a little driveway work with a 6ft boxblade and a test run down the dirtroad for a 1/4 mile or so at 'highway speeds'. Still not able run this 850 for long period of time, 30 or 40 minutes and it is spewing coolant. Going by our latest posts, I was trying to establish a running level of coolant this unit will run at.

On this unit, the overflow canister is only a 'tupperware grade' plastic with a simple snap-lid - and it is intended for a pressurized system. After bringing it up to working temp, it blows coolant outta this simple snap lid. S'pose it is in the design to let off pressure at this point when it gets to a certain temp (or pressure) ? and when this lid is compromised, we are running on an open system (like running with the rad cap off). During this time, temp gauge is not an accurate reading and when re-capped, gauge jumps up to hot (and fills overflow and appears under great pressure.

When allowing to cool, radiator and coolant seem to cool rather quickly but engine block remains at a really hot level for a good while (I reckon meaning really hot). Makes me wonder how much flow thru the system Ive got.

I guess my bottom line is - is this 6ft boxblade too much strain ? I also have added a little frontend ballast with 160lb of weight. When idling, raising the implement requires a 1600 + rpm to work it without a definite change of engine sound in workload. Manual suggests running at 1800-2100 for working loads. and it seems that when running at this range, thats when the pressures jump.

I guess from this topic, one can tell just how lost I am with this little tractor.

 

[wolftree]

After you ran the coolant flush, did you drain the system? If so, how nasty was it? Do you have coolant flush running in system now?

You have 20 years of crud and scale built up in the radiator and engine block, a one time running for a few days may not be enough. You may need to have the radiator boiled out if it is a copper radiator. They cannot boil aluminum radiators, replacement only.


If you feel your temp gauge is lying, replace it. If it is an individual gauge rather than part of the instrument cluster, look at Stewart-Warner's gauges.

 

[4310]

I can't help you much other than to tell you that I don't think that the 6' box blade is too much for your 850. Before I sold mine I routinely finish mowed 5+ acres with a 6' rear mower and in the winter I used a 5' rear blade to pull snow out of the drive, and the neighbors, and their neighbors, etc. Sometimes it was a foot or more deep. I never had a problem with overheating no matter how hard I used it.

 

[4310]

P.S.

It did seem to keep its own coolant level where it wanted it. I remember flushing it and then filling it back up and then having to add a little to the overflow bottle after using it a time or two. It worked itself out. After it cooled I checked the radiator and as long as it was full of coolant and there was coolant in the overflow bottle I didn't worry about it.

 

[lilburr]

wolf, Flush from initial round of testing was done more like a automobile flushing (when changing anti freeze). This area had an unusual cold streak right about that time with temps in the mid20s and I did not want to leave tractor unprotected (straight water - no antifreeze). It looks like we are in for some nice weather the next few days and I will run with flush in system for this time, then flush after several hours usage. I expect work times of no more than half hour before overheating and will try to operate like this for several runs.

thanks ever body and I'll get back to ya

 

[wolftree]

Look at your radiator hoses. Old hoses have been known to collapse, restricting water flow, then causing overheating. If you have replaced the thermostat and radiator cap with the correct parts, then hoses would be my next choice.

 

[lilburr]

Ill tell you what, if it aint one thang its another...

Now that I'm doing an extended flush process (a few days running), the dang thing wont start ! Ive got them clicking sounds instead of a crank. Since Ive had it (July) it has clicked a couple times before turning over the starter just about ever time but the last couple days, no start, just clicking sound.

I have replaced battery cables and battery just because its a new (to me) unit. After reading several threads on this subject, Ima gonna check and clean all connections that Ive re-done and check out the battery power on starting.

Sometimes its good to live down here where it dont get to freezing too bad this early but we are gonna get a little this weekend and Ill have to re-fill with antifreeze or at least drain it of flush.

 

[lilburr]

A couple days of no-running and then out of nowhere (not really outta nowhere; I had taken out and re-installed batt cables, and cleaned and tightened connections with no apparent change until this), it cranks on Saturday, and I did light work for a couple one hour runs. I understand that establishing 'ground' is essential and this should be the problem with the clicking instead of starter turning motor. I am chasing all connections in this starting system to the starter. I have visually inspected under the dash and all 'appears' normal and tightened.

After running on Sat, I drained the flush and re-filled with coolant, letting the engine warm up with the cap off. Flush was not overly nasty but was a grayish color, did not appear to be oily. Im looking for a 'burp' or air in the system to be let out while re-filling coolant into the running tractor with cap off. It overflowed the coolant after a few minutes and I probably shoulda let it continue but let it cool instead. Its fairly cold around here for a couple days, although not really cold. After I finally get out there, Im gonna start without cap again, let it warm up and see what happens.

It seems to run alright if I keep the load down and dont do a lotta backin and forthin, working moves. I will go from low range to high when re-positioning, just for the convenience of moving with a little less effort. During this working, engine stays at constant RPM of 1500 - 1800. It seems to heat up when running more RPMs. Running at this lower RPM seems to give me more seat time without overflow.

Still chasing this thing ...