855 starting problem

[alan855]

Hi, The problem is that the starter gear is not engaging the flywheel. For the past year I've been using a small screw driver to push the gear out into the flywheel. I thought I had a bad starter, so I spent $300 for a new one only to have the exact same problem.

Next, I thought it might be the battery. So I jumped my car to the tractor and the starter gear still wouldn't engage the flywheel.

Then I began checking out and cleaning the battery terminals and electrical connection on the starter... Still no success!!!

Finally, I started looking at the wiring. I found that when I used a jumper wire to apply power directly from the battery to the single spade on the bottom of the starter the gear popped right out, engaged and turned the flywheel easily.

My guess is that there is a short somewhere in the brown wire that connects to the bottom of the starter. I tried to trace the brown wire, but lose track of it in the wiring harness. As best I can tell it begins at the center spade of the ignition switch and ends at the starter, but I lose track of it in the wiring harness.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for an 855 that indicates the path and interfaces for the brown wire connecting to the starter? Does this wire connect directly from the starter to the ignition switch or is there a relay or neutral safety switch between them.

Thanks,
Alan.
/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[alan855]

I spoke to a mechanic today, he said it could be a bad ground. He said to clean the frame ground contact really good. He had a similar problem in the past and had to add a second frame ground.

I'll let you know if it works. I hope it does, if it does work I'll kick myself for spending $300 on that new starter!

 

[jd110]

Are you saying that it will start with the key if you use the screwdriver to pry the drive gear out to the flywheel? If so, then I doubt it is a ground problem. If it is a ground problem, then I would look at the ground strap at the right front motor mount. It might be loose or broken, causing the ground to go through the throttle cable. There is a neutral switch in the circuit. It is almost impossible to see. It is inside the frame rail on the right side on the hydro linkage. Good Luck!

 

[alan855]

Yes, it starts with the key if I use a screwdriver to pry the gear out to the fly wheel.

I checked the ground strap, exactly where you said it would be, and found that it was loose. I cleaned the connectors and tightened everything up. But the starter still was NOT engaging the flywheel.

I'll check the neutral switch tomorrow night. I'll keep you updated.

Thanks for the help!!!!
Alan

 

[BigEddy]

Try removing the wire connectors from the ignition switch and replacing them. I had one spade connector go weak and would be intermittant. Tightened it up and things worked well again.

 

[alan855]

The problem is the neutral safety switch. I found that the connector sleeves where the switch leads connected to the wiring harness were melted together. After seperating the switch from the wiring harness I made a small jumper cable to bypass the neutral safety switch and close the circuit. The starter workers perfectly with everyturn of the key.

The neutral safety switch is in a very tight space. What is the best way to get at it, to replace it. It appaers that the plate it is mounted to most be removed. I've removed nut holding the lower linkage rod to the plate but there still is not enough play to remove the plate the switch is mounted to.

Thanks for the Help!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[jd110]

You are correct. The "plate " does need to be removed. I assume you have already removed the panel between your legs. You also should remove the vertical panel directly behind that panel. Disconnect the return spring that is under the right side frame. You said you already disconnected the linkage on the plate. Then you remove the bolt completely that clamps the plate to the hydro control shaft. The plate should now be able to slide to the right and off of the shaft. The switch is then easily unbolted and replaced. It is tight working in there but it can be done.