861 diesel problems

[MitchellB]

Made a lot of visual progress today. I RTV gasket sealed in my rear main bearing block clamp & V-seals; got the oil pan, front cover and pulley installed with new gaskets; took the engine off the stand and hung it on the my cherry picker at an angle so I could install my flywheel (with new bearing) and new clutch. That was a bear to do alone. Suckers are heavy. Then I thought before the sun goes down, why not try to put the engine to the transmission. Well that was definitely a job I recommend having help with, but after 1/2 dozen alignment bars, 2 C-clamps and a lot of prayers and cursing, it finally slipped it on by myself and I even rolled the axle back bolted in place. All the nuts are still loose, but at least the engine is back in. Now I just got to remember where that pile of parts in the corner go!

 

[Soundguy]

That's the fun part, making all the parts you put in the bucket go back out of the bucket!

 

[MitchellB]

I got the engine block bolts to the transmission housing tightened and the 4 bolts that hold the axle to the front tightened. Reattached my radius rod and tie-rod to the axle

Removed my cherry picker, jack and jack stands underneath.

Torqued the head down to 100 lbs. and put one bolt in to hold the starter in place. Not sure why I only had 1 bolt stored with the starter when it takes 3, but I guess I'll find them later.

installed my new temp gauge sensor, but had problems getting my oil pressure line to screw into the brass elbow fitting on the engine block. It was getting cold and darkish, so I called it a day.

 

[Soundguy]

that oil line connection.... ford engineers must have been laughing pretty good on that one.

 

[MitchellB]

Messed some more with that dang oil pressure line fitting this morning and never could get the sucker to start. I finally got desperate and cut the end off so I could pull off the steel male end so I could clean up the threads with a thread file. After that if finally started (or maybe cut new threads) into the brass elbow on the block. At any rate, it will fit now. Just got to reflare my tubing. Well, wouldn't know it, my flaring tool only goes as small as 3/16" and evidently this frigging oil pressure line is 1/8" steel. Now I got to either buy a new line or buy/borrow a smaller flaring tool.

So, I started another project. The battery on the riding mower would not hold a charge anymore, even with the battery charger hooked to it, it will not crank the mower. So I got the bright idea from a few links online about adding Epson Salt (dissolved in water) to the battery will sometimes rejuvenate them. I figured the battery is toast anyway, but I don't want to replace it until next spring and I need to mow the yard today. Naturally my battery was one of those sealed maintenance free idiot proof batterys, so it took me some time to get into the cells. All the cells were low, so I put about a cup or more of water/2 tablespoons Epson salt in it. Charged it again, but it still would not turn over the engine. Jumped the mower off from my tractor battery and at least the engine would charge the battery enough to mow. I mowed about 3 hours before shutting it down. I did try to crank my mower again when I was done and to my surprise, she spun over strong and fire right up. So evidently the bouncing around of the battery and Ebson salts inside must have done something good. So the day wasn't a total loss.

 

[Soundguy]

just get another fitting. you can find a compression fitting for the block .. then just clean the line and use a good feroule and it should be fine. btdt..

 

[MitchellB]

I drove around to about 8 different stores and shops either trying to find a replacement line (Ford = $99.00), new 1/8" flaring tool or a shop that could flare the tubing for me with zero results. One place (Alliance Hose & Tube Works) who said they could flare it when another shop called them for me that I was at; to my horror cut off about 2" of my already shorten line only to tell me they could not flare it either. I did find a copper 1/8" oil pressure line at Advance Auto for about $5 that include compression fittings, but that also means buying new matching fittings to go in my block and oil pressure gauge, but I bought the line just in case. In the mean time, I found an old used flaring tool on eBay that is supposed to go down to 1/8" that is on the way. If that don't work, I will try to flare the copper tubing I bought so I can use my old ends. If that don't work, I will replace the fittings in the block and gauge to use the copper line with the compression fittings. Over all, it is a seemingly simple part/fix that has been a royal pain. Waiting on the flare tool to arrive now.

I been working on the injectors, taking them apart and cleaning them. One of the copper washers are missing. I must have lost it, but I thought I was being careful to keep everything together, but who knows. Just another problem I can blame on the 861 demon that haunts this machine. The Ford New Holland dealer I called this morning says they are $5.22 each for a little copper washer and $195.80 for a replacement injector if I need one. He also rather rudely told me he does not give out part numbers. Never had that problem before! I guess it is to keep me from going somewhere else and buying the part, which is exactly what I plan to do. Anyone got a part number for these Simms injectors for a 861 diesel.

Can I test the injectors before I install them? How? I found a Pop diesel fuel injector tester online that I though might tell me if it is spraying correctly, but I hate to spend the money for it if it will not work on these Simms injectors or there is another simpler test I can do. I worry about the idea of putting them back in, if one or all of them are defective in some way. One injector had a lot of soot/carbon on the tip, another had a stuck needle seat inside the tip, another is made completely different inside for the return fuel than the other 3. I just want to be sure these work before burying them under the rocker arm, valve cover and fuel tank only to have to dig them out later if one is screwed up.

 

[kf4uda]

You don't need your dealer for part numbers. You can get them direct from the new holland site.

Official New Holland Online Parts Store and Online Parts Catalog for New Holland and Ford Tractors.

 

[MitchellB]

Another little tidbit. Before I installed my coolant thermostat and spout to the front of my engine, I had the idea to test it in a pan of boiling water because before I shut this tractor down when I had problems at the beginning of this thread, it seemed to be overheating also (but did not have a temp gauge on the tractor at the time to confirm it). Anyway the old Ford thermostat was closed so I figured the hot water should open it up. It does open, but not until after the water begins boiling. Then after it cools, it would not close again, but was stuck open. (glad I tested it). I figured a thermostat would be a cheap easy fix, but whoa Ford is proud of there thermostats - $40! I finally found a cross over number online to a Slant thermostat #13358 that is supposed to work for $5 that is on order.

 

[MitchellB]

Thanks for the parts catalog link. I had looked there before, but could never find any older model tractor like mine. That is what I needed. Thanks again.