861 diesel problems

[MitchellB]

I think that transmission seal may be in my gasket kit I opened today.???? Looks like it might fit.

I got the new liner in and installed my Crankshaft and main bearings. I broke the blue rope? seal trying to force it in the V grooves however and just ordered a new set. I can't more forward for backing up. I guess I'll have to sand the new ones to fit before pushing them in.

Also got my pistons (with new rings) and new bearings installed and torqued. I wasn't sure about reusing the sheet metal lock nuts atop the piston rod bearing cap nut, but I put them back on and snugged them down. I must say, that the crank is pretty tight to turn by hand now. Gonna be a tight one when it is time to crank this baby up for the first time.

 

[kf4uda]

According to my shop manual, those nuts are called a pal nut. It says to "install two new Pal nuts on the connecting rod and tighten them to 3-3 1/2 ft. Lbs. torque." I don't know about you but my torque wrench don't dial that low. The bearing cap nuts torque to 45-50 ft. Lbs.

You are going to have that old oil burner going in no time. I wish my 861 was diesel or at least think I do. I have never been around one so not positive about that.

 

[MitchellB]

According to my shop manual, those nuts are called a pal nut. It says to "install two new Pal nuts on the connecting rod and tighten them to 3-3 1/2 ft. Lbs. torque." I don't know about you but my torque wrench don't dial that low. The bearing cap nuts torque to 45-50 ft. Lbs.

You are going to have that old oil burner going in no time. I wish my 861 was diesel or at least think I do. I have never been around one so not positive about that.

Thanks. I torqued the rod bearings to 50 and the mains to 100. I got that online. The pal nuts I guess-ta-mated. Got them snug and and about a 1/2 turn more.

I took the oil pump apart, cleaned it today and reassembed it with new gaskets. I did smear some grease around the gears and plunger to hopefully help it prime at start up time. The hex shaft was worn on the end so, I got a new one on order for that.

When I drop in the geared timing shaft/oil pump shaft down to the cam gear, How do I know when it is in the right gear tooth on the cam to be in proper time for the fuel pump?

I thought I wanted a diesel tractor too, but I'm worried about this one. Gonna take several hours in the saddle before I feel comfortable trusting this Red Tiger.

But first I still got to get it back together, but at least I should have a idea what makes it tick by then.

 

[Soundguy]

sounds awesome...

 

[MitchellB]

I was cleaning the transmission housing inside around the clutch, release bearing and input shaft before I disassemble it and noticed a couple things I'm not sure about.

Is it normal for the transmission input shaft to wobble on the end/tip that goes to the engine. The tip on my will move 1/4-3/8" around in all directions? I figured it would be a pretty solid shaft until I began to clean with it. ??????????

Does anyone know how stiff the coiled clutch spring (5 speed) around the clutch shaft should be? While it does have the spring strength to raise the peddle all the way up and the release bearing all the way to the rear on the input shaft, I can reach in, grab the releases bearing and move it forward with very little spring resistance for an inch or less. If the spring is weak, that may have caused my clutch screws to wear like they did, but I'm not sure if this tension is normal or not.

Thanks.

 

[MitchellB]

After taking the transmission input shaft housing off and the clutch peddle shaft out I ended up replacing 2 seals in the two input shafts. One large one in the input shaft housing and another smaller one for the smaller/longer shaft inside the shaft. Counting the new paper gasket for the housing, those 2 little seals cost me $45 at the New Holland dealer near me. Ouch. But my shaft wobble is all but very little now. The clutch spring, they did not have a replacement for that I could compare it to, so I re-installed the old one. However to my surprise, after I clean everything of gunk, crud and grease the new TOB and peddle release much stronger than before with no slack to press against the clutch arms. After some checking online, I've decided to pull my rear main bearing retaining block back off. The new V-groove seals are not expanding after 2 days of soaking in oil. Not one of Ford's better ideas. I intend to clean them up and RTV the block & seals back in place tomorrow. I don't need a leak here. Then I can put my oil pan back on.

 

[Soundguy]

it will still be a miracle if it is completely drip free.. unfortunately.

 

[MitchellB]

Yea, I guess they are kinda like the old Harley's. If it don't have a puddle of oil under it, something is wrong. I did discover in my Google searches that I should install a cotter pin in the weep hole in the bottom of that clutch/transmission housing that I cleaned out. Ford's idea was that the little cotter pin rattling around in the hole prevents it from stopping up so the oil will be able to drip out. So, Ford expected these tractors to leak! Park accordingly. My 8N leaks too but at the governor and the at PTO shaft when the cap is off.

 

[MitchellB]

I'm thinking about flushing out the transmission/hydraulics with some clean diesel fuel before I put the engine back to the housing and before I refilling with new 80/90. Would diesel fuel harm any of the seals inside the case? Is this a bad idea?

 

[Soundguy]

I'm thinking about flushing out the transmission/hydraulics with some clean diesel fuel before I put the engine back to the housing and before I refilling with new 80/90. Would diesel fuel harm any of the seals inside the case? Is this a bad idea?

i flush mine with diesel, atf and alcohol.

remember.. hyds and tranny are seperate sumps. 80/90 is fine for the trans. but hyds needs UTF fluid.

and ditto on the dangle pin.