I bush hogged today with my new (old) 8N. It's a great little tractor. I knew the left rear axle leaked around the flange where the axle bolts to the center section. How big of a ***** is that to fix and more importantly, another leak. It's some sort of hydraulic fluid seeping out from between the block and transmission and seems to leak a few ounces a day out of it. How painful is this to split the tractor here? Thanks.
8N leaking fluids
- Thread starter Mopar92
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xlr82v2
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- 2007 Mahindra 3525, 1952 Ford 8N
Well, I can't help much with the leaking axle, but I've split a couple of 8N's in half. If you've got a smooth concrete floor and at least 1 floor jack and a bottle jack, it's really pretty easy and straightforward.
The oil that you're seeing dripping from the weep hole is gear oil that is leaking past the transmission input shaft seal. That seal is easy to change once you get the tractor split. Here's an exploded view of the tranny input shaft...
One mod that you may want to do while you've got your tractor split open is to drill a drain hole in the bottom of the "main drive gear bearing retainer" so that if that seal should start leaking again, it will drain out of the new drain hole that you just drilled instead of running all the way forward and draining into the clutch.
Like I said, when I replaced the seal on my tractor, I also replaced the clutch and pilot bearing... I did the whole job in just under 3 hours. You can do everything yourself pretty much, but it will be helpful to have someone to help when you mate the tractor back together. If you remove the clutch, you can also use the transmission input shaft as a clutch alignment tool as well.
The oil that you're seeing dripping from the weep hole is gear oil that is leaking past the transmission input shaft seal. That seal is easy to change once you get the tractor split. Here's an exploded view of the tranny input shaft...
One mod that you may want to do while you've got your tractor split open is to drill a drain hole in the bottom of the "main drive gear bearing retainer" so that if that seal should start leaking again, it will drain out of the new drain hole that you just drilled instead of running all the way forward and draining into the clutch.
Like I said, when I replaced the seal on my tractor, I also replaced the clutch and pilot bearing... I did the whole job in just under 3 hours. You can do everything yourself pretty much, but it will be helpful to have someone to help when you mate the tractor back together. If you remove the clutch, you can also use the transmission input shaft as a clutch alignment tool as well.
I figured if I am going to split this thing, It's getting a clutch just because.. 
Not to mention all that lube on the clutch... eeuuuck. Does the dash and all need to come apart to split it? I did buy an aftermarket manual for repairs. Figured it's a good idea. Thanks.
Not to mention all that lube on the clutch... eeuuuck. Does the dash and all need to come apart to split it? I did buy an aftermarket manual for repairs. Figured it's a good idea. Thanks.
xlr82v2
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- 2007 Mahindra 3525, 1952 Ford 8N
No, the dash doesn't have to come apart, but you'll have to remove the hood and the battery box, and the toolbox in front of the dash if your tractor still has it. The fuel tank stays with the hood, so don't forget to disconnect the fuel line to the carb. Also, I forgot in my first post, you might need a helper to help you lift the hood, especially if your fuel tank is full. But other than that, it's a fairly painless operation.
If you got the I&T FO-4 manual, that will get you through a lot of stuff with the 8N.
I also saw that you're trying to get headlights working... I dont' know that there's a kit available... I'd just get a switch of your liking rated for at least 15 amps, some 14ga red and black wire, and wire them up. Get your power from the hot side of the terminal block. There is nothing complicated on this tractor (except for the draft/position control linkages for the 3PH...) so don't be afraid to tackle anything on it. Since you've already got the sealed beams, you should be able to get them burning for about $20 or less. While you have the hood off changing the input seal would also be a good time to wire the lights, since you'll have easier access to the headlight brackets inside the hood.
If you got the I&T FO-4 manual, that will get you through a lot of stuff with the 8N.
I also saw that you're trying to get headlights working... I dont' know that there's a kit available... I'd just get a switch of your liking rated for at least 15 amps, some 14ga red and black wire, and wire them up. Get your power from the hot side of the terminal block. There is nothing complicated on this tractor (except for the draft/position control linkages for the 3PH...) so don't be afraid to tackle anything on it. Since you've already got the sealed beams, you should be able to get them burning for about $20 or less. While you have the hood off changing the input seal would also be a good time to wire the lights, since you'll have easier access to the headlight brackets inside the hood.
Soundguy
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Yep.. that input shaft seal is a 3$ meany that requires the front split.
The axle housing needs a paper gasket.. not to bad to pull it with axle and hub if you have a cherry picker...
soundguy
The axle housing needs a paper gasket.. not to bad to pull it with axle and hub if you have a cherry picker...
soundguy
I don't have a cherry picker anymore. I figured the whole wheel/hub and axle needs to come out. I still wonder how heavy that axle is? I wondered if I made a cradle out of scrap steel and a floor jack or two if I could slide it out, put the new gasket in and put it back together. Thanks.
Soundguy
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If you leave the trumpet and axle and hub together.. i imaging it weighs 200-250# or so..if you seperate it not so bad...
got another tractor with a boom pole.. or overhead hoist?
soundguy
got another tractor with a boom pole.. or overhead hoist?
soundguy
I have heard it's a semi floating axle. If I just take off the brake stuff, and then unbolt it from the axle center section, will this all come off as a hub,axle,brake drum , etc unit? I think that's what you are trying to tell me. In other words, the floating side of the axle is in the carrier, not the hub on the brake side of the axle. Thanks, Keith
Soundguy
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As i said.. you can remove the entire assembled trumpet from the center section.
soundguy
soundguy
simonmeridew
Silver Member
a couple of thoughts about the leaks:
1--please get the I & T manual for the N tractors. If it helps you with one step it will help you with twenty steps.
2--splitting the tractor is no problem. very straightforward and nothing hidden. You need a couple of jack stands to hold the engine and tranny once they're apart. If you have a bright idea and decide to pull the starter, loosen but don't pull out of the starter the two long(7 inch) screws that hold the starter on; otherwise the brushes can slip past the commutator if the starter separates with a sickening "click", and they're a rascal to get back in
3. Speaking of rascals, those axle leaks can be pesky. I ended up getting some of the thick permatex compound and made my own gaskets; otherwise I couldn't get the leaks to stop. That red colored Permatex stuff did the trick. When you pull the axle, the big nut on the outboard end is really torqued on: like 350 foot-pounds or so. And often the threads are buggered up under the nut because they're exposed and in the dirt.. Not to worry though, you can get a 2 piece repair nut system that really works to replace this big nut; the kit thing squeezes down on the axle regardless of the condition of the threads and will stay put.
4. When you have the trumpet off, it's a good time to check and replace the drawbar pins that are only accessible from the inside of the trumpet. These are very hard alloy metal and very strong, but over the years they get worn and hogged out, and you can start to get leaks around where they come out of the trumpets.
5. While the trumpets off check for metal chips and chunks in the bottom of the differential chamber.
simonmeridew
1--please get the I & T manual for the N tractors. If it helps you with one step it will help you with twenty steps.
2--splitting the tractor is no problem. very straightforward and nothing hidden. You need a couple of jack stands to hold the engine and tranny once they're apart. If you have a bright idea and decide to pull the starter, loosen but don't pull out of the starter the two long(7 inch) screws that hold the starter on; otherwise the brushes can slip past the commutator if the starter separates with a sickening "click", and they're a rascal to get back in
3. Speaking of rascals, those axle leaks can be pesky. I ended up getting some of the thick permatex compound and made my own gaskets; otherwise I couldn't get the leaks to stop. That red colored Permatex stuff did the trick. When you pull the axle, the big nut on the outboard end is really torqued on: like 350 foot-pounds or so. And often the threads are buggered up under the nut because they're exposed and in the dirt.. Not to worry though, you can get a 2 piece repair nut system that really works to replace this big nut; the kit thing squeezes down on the axle regardless of the condition of the threads and will stay put.
4. When you have the trumpet off, it's a good time to check and replace the drawbar pins that are only accessible from the inside of the trumpet. These are very hard alloy metal and very strong, but over the years they get worn and hogged out, and you can start to get leaks around where they come out of the trumpets.
5. While the trumpets off check for metal chips and chunks in the bottom of the differential chamber.
simonmeridew
I did in fact already order the manual.... thanks though. It should be at the house when I get home this week. Also, why would I need to take off the big nut on the end of the axle? I was going to do what SoundGuy said.... just pull it all off... Thanks.
xlr82v2
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- 2007 Mahindra 3525, 1952 Ford 8N
Do you even have to remove the trumpet to repair the seal?
Mine on the left side is seeping a bit, but not enough to warrant tearing it down (yet...).
Mine on the left side is seeping a bit, but not enough to warrant tearing it down (yet...).
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