8n side distributor with electronic ignition

[Hammbone]

Is there a side mount distributor with already installed electronic ignition available for purchase, or is there an electronic ignition conversion that does away with the advance weights ? All I can find is the standard points breaker ignition distributors.

Was thinking about converting to 12v setup with electronic ignition before I found out the advance weights in my current dizzy are toast, so I figured I best address this issue first.


It also looks like the slots on the shaft ears are worn pretty badly as well. I think this has been the root problem of what seemed like multiple gremlins I have been dealing with for a couple years now such as: hard starting, points wearing quickly (need re-set every 15-20ish hours), intermittent lack of power when under load,
and constantly having to adjust the timing to run ok.

So, to replace the dist. shaft and weights it's looking like it will be around $120-$150. This doesn't seem to make sense when I can get a brand new complete dist for the same price and a few options even less. If I go the new complete distributor route I may consider trying normal points style a little longer with a properly functioning setup.
Thanks for any thoughts on the matter.

 

[RickB]

I do not think you will find a new distributor with EI right out of the box, you will have to buy a distributor then add EI. EI units are voltage specific AND polarity specific, so have those choices sorted out for your long term needs before buying EI. I strongly advise against 6 volt EI installs due to the narrow range of voltage drop tolerance of EI systems and the high probability that an 8N starter and wiring is old, worn, corroded and draws sufficient current to cause EI to be unreliable while cranking because of low system voltage.

My advise would be to replace the distributor, convert to 12V negative ground and add EI in that order. You may well find that adding EI is not necessary.

 

[Hammbone]

Thanks Rick, that sounds like the route route I was looking at going to a T. I was also thinking that the ei might not be needed after finding out it wasn't particularly the points that were the issue but more of a faulty distributor. The tractor runs good when all the stars align perfectly, lol.

One concern with the new distributors though is are they made just like the old ones with replacement parts still being interchangable?

 

[RickB]

Other than points, condenser, rotor, dust cap and cap I would not bet on it.

 

[Hammbone]

Decided to go ahead with the all new distributor assembly. Should be here in a few days, fingers crossed. Will post an update when it's back up and running! Thanks for taking the time to help wrangle in my thought process on which route to go Rick.

 

[John0829]

That distributor is nearly as worn out as the one in my SIL's 8N. We found it less expensive to replace the distributor than get the parts to repair it. As for EI, we prefer the old school points, plenty cheap enough to replace when needed. Few people know how to read the wear of a set of points to understand what is happening with the ignition and just throw in new points and condenser which with the quality of these items now days is not always a smart move. We have tractors on the same set of points for over 5 years, we check the gap and add a touch of lube on the rubbing block every year. So far I have not been impressed with the life of the conversion units vs the price of points. Besides if points fail out in the field I can tinker with them and get back to the shop, EI fails there is where you are till you get a new one.

 

[Hammbone]

Alright, finally back together and running like a dream. Probably running better than it ever has since I have had it the last 6 years. I'm hoping that having a new distributor with everything nice and tight with no slop will give a better experience with points setup and won't require adjustment every dozen hours of runtime. So far I see no need to change to ei with as well as it is running.

That said, the reason it took a few weeks to respond is because I ended up needing to go through and clean up all the connections in the electrical system as well and then figured out the wire from coil to distributor points connection looked good but would intermittently drop voltage and it was driving me nuts. It didn't help that I was using a damaged sparkplug wire to check for spark either, man that was frustrating lol. Finally figured it out and replaced the two wires and she's running like a top! Starts at idle with no choke on the first revolution of the motor!

Thanks for the advice about sticking with the points, I believe I will. as far as the 12v conversion goes, as much as I would like to add some lights I think it will have to wait since it's running so well right now. Back to playing in the dirt for me!

 

[airbiscuit]

Amazon.com: JAHURD Round Led Fog Lights, 2 Packs 27W 5inch Round Led Off-Road Light 12 Volt Led Work Lights Bar Waterproof for Truck Car ATV SUV Boat 4WD ATV: Automotive

 

[John0829]

Thanks for the advice about sticking with the points, I believe I will. as far as the 12v conversion goes, as much as I would like to add some lights I think it will have to wait since it's running so well right now. Back to playing in the dirt for me!

Sounds like my SIL's tractor, didn't know it could run so good until the new dizzy was put in.

You can still get 6V lights, probably for less than the cost of the 12V conversion, granted they won't be brilliantly bright but then on a tractor you really don't need to light up the world a mile away. I would have left my old Ford 6V but the charging system was toast when I got it and I needed to be able to use 12V accessories, sprayer and winch, so the conversion was necessary.

 

[Rebeldad1]

if its running great.... all the more reason to switch to electronics.
It will stay running 110% as good for a long time. No more adjusting points. When points go out of adjustment it also changes timing. Usually 1 degree of point change = 2 degrees timing offset.
Best ever point conversion is Pertronix. Direct fit for your distributor. You can still use the stock coil
Also recommend opening the plug gap. If you"re at .025 open to .030
Its as simple as installing new points.
Any confusion call Pertronix tech support

 

[fried1765]

if its running great.... all the more reason to switch to electronics.
It will stay running 110% as good for a long time. No more adjusting points. When points go out of adjustment it also changes timing. Usually 1 degree of point change = 2 degrees timing offset.
Best ever point conversion is Pertronix. Direct fit for your distributor. You can still use the stock coil
Also recommend opening the plug gap. If you"re at .025 open to .030
Its as simple as installing new points.
Any confusion call Pertronix tech support

Good system.....I did the Pertronix conversion years ago.

 

[Hammbone]

I would have left my old Ford 6V but the charging system was toast when I got it and I needed to be able to use 12V accessories, sprayer and winch, so the conversion was necessary.

^This exactly. The charging system has also given me trouble since I bought it. I have rebuilt the generator, new wire harness, new voltage regulator and battery. I finally was able to get it to generate voltage, but then it was over charging and bubbling the battery acid out of the battery. It was either all or nothing, so when it happened while in the field I disconnected it and haven't been back to look at it since. I just top off the battery with a charger a couple times a year and with only the ignition drawing power I'm good for many months (unless I use lights:laughing maybe I will dive into it one more time before going the upgrade route, but having 12v available for auxillary use would be really handy.

 

[RickB]

I have had a lot of customers complain about having to replace a 40-60 year old wiring harness. I have yet to hear an electrical system complaint from someone with a 40-60 year old tractor with a new harness.

New wiring can solve problems you do not know you have.

 

[John0829]

I was talking to a guy about 2 months ago who was replacing the Pertronix unit once sometimes twice a year. He said everything was new, coil, wiring, plugs, you name it but the units still were failing. I could have bought a truck load of points for what he has spent on the EI units.

I agree old wiring is a source of a lot of problems but I never understood buying the new harness, these old machines only have 2 circuits: 1. ignition, 2. charging, well 3. if you have lights. You can make up a harness for so little time or money plus it gives you a better understanding of what goes were and how to fix if something were to go wrong.

 

[RickB]

I was talking to a guy about 2 months ago who was replacing the Pertronix unit once sometimes twice a year. He said everything was new, coil, wiring, plugs, you name it but the units still were failing. I could have bought a truck load of points for what he has spent on the EI units.

A new coil doesn’t mean it is the right coil. That said, Pertronix has been reported to have more problems in the recent past than in earlier years. Given the almost universally poor quality of available new points and condensers I won’t argue the point either way.

 

[kf4uda]

I gave in over 4 years back and bought the PerTronix ignition for my 861. I have been very happy with that purchase ever since. The tractor starts “on time every time” and has been trouble free.

I can work on a points system but don’t particularly care to ( especially when I am wanting to use the tractor).

Just my 2 cents.

 

[airbiscuit]

^This exactly. The charging system has also given me trouble since I bought it. I have rebuilt the generator, new wire harness, new voltage regulator and battery. I finally was able to get it to generate voltage, but then it was over charging and bubbling the battery acid out of the battery. It was either all or nothing, so when it happened while in the field I disconnected it and haven't been back to look at it since. I just top off the battery with a charger a couple times a year and with only the ignition drawing power I'm good for many months (unless I use lights:laughing maybe I will dive into it one more time before going the upgrade route, but having 12v available for auxillary use would be really handy.

Might it be worth trying a different regulator?

 

[Hammbone]

Airbicuit, I think that's probably next on the list now that I've found such an improvement in the tractor overall I might as well give it one more shot. Maybe I got a doa regulator, but if another new regulator doesn't do it I'll be pretty well stumped.

 

[airbiscuit]

Don't know if there is anything to this, but ...

Polarizing a generator, at the regulator terminals, involves a simple procedure that ensures the generator and regulator read the same electrical polarity signal. In simple terms, the generator needs to remember how it was wired after it has been disconnected or replaced. If the regulator was recently replaced, the system still has to be polarized, since a disconnection has separated the system components. Failing to polarize can trip a generator or charging light in the system, and burn out the wiring circuit. Any repair person who has changed or disconnected the wires to the regulator, generator or alternator, needs to take a moment and polarize system.

Step 1

Make sure your tractor sits in park or neutral, with the emergency brake fully applied. Remove the ignition key. Make sure your battery has a full charge. Place the leads of a multimeter on the battery, hooking the positive, red lead of the meter to the positive terminal on the battery. Connect the negative, black lead of the meter to the negative terminal on the battery.

Step 2

Open the hood cowl. Locate your regulator, by referring to your owner's engine manual. It will look like a small black box connected to the firewall or engine-side fender well. The regulator will have letters stamped on it, next to three wire locations. Note the "Arm", "Bat" and "Fld" wire designations, which stand for armature, battery and field. The wires lead to the generator, which should be similarly marked.

Step 3

Read your repair manual to determine if you have an older 6-volt system. The markings on the regulator might read "Bat", "Fld" and "Gen." One other configuration will be "Bat", "Fld" and "Arm." In this case, you will use a screwdriver to disconnect the wire from the battery wire on the regulator, and the generator or armature wire on the regulator.

Momentarily touch the battery wire with the generator wire, or the armature wire, depending upon the letter designation. Look for the blue electrical arc. Refasten both wires to the regulator with the screwdriver.

 

[John0829]

Don't know if there is anything to this, but ...

Polarizing a generator, at the regulator terminals, involves a simple procedure that ensures the generator and regulator read the same electrical polarity signal. In simple terms, the generator needs to remember how it was wired after it has been disconnected or replaced. If the regulator was recently replaced, the system still has to be polarized, since a disconnection has separated the system components. Failing to polarize can trip a generator or charging light in the system, and burn out the wiring circuit. Any repair person who has changed or disconnected the wires to the regulator, generator or alternator, needs to take a moment and polarize system.

Step 1

Make sure your tractor sits in park or neutral, with the emergency brake fully applied. Remove the ignition key. Make sure your battery has a full charge. Place the leads of a multimeter on the battery, hooking the positive, red lead of the meter to the positive terminal on the battery. Connect the negative, black lead of the meter to the negative terminal on the battery.

Step 2

Open the hood cowl. Locate your regulator, by referring to your owner's engine manual. It will look like a small black box connected to the firewall or engine-side fender well. The regulator will have letters stamped on it, next to three wire locations. Note the "Arm", "Bat" and "Fld" wire designations, which stand for armature, battery and field. The wires lead to the generator, which should be similarly marked.

Step 3

Read your repair manual to determine if you have an older 6-volt system. The markings on the regulator might read "Bat", "Fld" and "Gen." One other configuration will be "Bat", "Fld" and "Arm." In this case, you will use a screwdriver to disconnect the wire from the battery wire on the regulator, and the generator or armature wire on the regulator.

Momentarily touch the battery wire with the generator wire, or the armature wire, depending upon the letter designation. Look for the blue electrical arc. Refasten both wires to the regulator with the screwdriver.

On the old N series tractors you need to know whether you have an "A circuit" or "B circuit" charging system. There is a difference in how you polarize them. Most 8N tractors used "A circuit" and to polarize it you touch your wire from the "Field" or "F" terminal of the regulator to ground.