8N that I thought was a 2N

[GPintheMitten]

Given that you already have tires dismounted, I would paint the rims without the tires on. Then touch up spots that get scratched while mounting, afterwards with a small brush.

 

[Soundguy]

Certainly not looking for a show tractor, but my pappy always told me if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. I've got parts scattered all over the barn, painted and ready to go back on, sure hope I don't have any left over! I'm thinking now about how to paint the wheels. Hate to get them all done, and have them bunged up mounting tires. Is there an easy way to mask the tires so I can paint after they're mounted?
Trying to strip this thing, I understand why people sand blast them.

you could certaintly mount he tires, then paint hhem with tire soap ( grease ), and then paint. after cure, wash them off.

or you can make up masks... etc.

many of us paint the rims good. mount hte tires, and then touch them up.

this way the bead and inner surfaces have some protection.. etc.

 

[Eyecatcher]

Still dis-assembling and cleaning. The longer I chew, the bigger it gets! Jacked up the front end to remove the wheels, and had to knock them off with a big hammer. Think they might be original tires. So many coats of paint they were glued on. Front axle "flopping around pretty bad, so decided might as well repair the center pin etc. while apart. Had to go to town and buy a pickle fork. Hard to believe I could lose something that big, but been years since I've used it. While in town, went by TSC and bought the grey paint, Valspar didn't have a light grey. Picked up a gallon of Naptha, going to use it to wipe everything down prior to painting, as well as reducer. TSC didn't stock the Majik reducer. Looked at their website, and looks like it's just a low VOC thinner. Hope naptha works just as well. Has anybody used naptha with Majik? Didn't realize alkyd enamel was made with soy oil.

 

[Soundguy]

Mix miners spirits and naptha and you can approximate majic reducer. It seems faster than me, but slower than naptha

 

[Eyecatcher]

Got the front axle assy apart - finally. Had a heck of a time getting the axle pivot pin out. Lots of heat, 2 big wedges and it finally did give up. Wishbone on the right came apart pretty easily once I got the center section of the axle up on the welding bench, the left side is still fighting me. Heated it pretty hot with the cutting torch and beat on it with no success. I'll try it in the press tomorrow, but I mushroomed the pin with the hammer, so had to let it cool so I can file it back down. Haven't tried to remove the center pivot bushing yet. I got the drag links both off with the new $10 pickle fork, but of course ruined the grease seals. I see both the big end seals (9n3324) and the tie rod seals (8M3332) on e- bay, but thinking about replacing the tie rod ends while I got it down. Just not sure what p/n I need. Chart I have goes by s/n, and I don't have any idea what mine is. I think it's a 49, because it has the spicer type steering box (set screw adjusters on both sides), but it doesn't have the extra inner axle seal. so s/b between 245637 & 245621. I'll clean the tie rod ends up in the morning and make a decision.

 

[Soundguy]

Screw adjuster steering box was the LATE box, round sector cover box was the early one.

Do the tr ends have play? I would not replace if no play.

Pickle forks always destroy the seals, but seals are cheap

 

[Eyecatcher]

Ran the drag links thru the bead blaster, and looks like I'll have to replace one tie rod end. Others are pretty tight. Are both tr ends left hand thread? Any idea what the secret is to getting the pin out of the wishbone where it goes thru the axle? Heat didn't work, so Kroiled several times. Guess I'll try to figure out how to get it in the press. Then comes the pivot bushing. that should be fun too.

 

[Soundguy]

wishbone?

Ahh.. you mean radius rod.

helps when you ID the part..


heay normally works. if they are stubborn and necked, then do heat and cool cycles with spray oil to quench, then reheat and start over.

is still nothing, ruin temper with a torch, then center prick, then drill it hollow, then try to drive it out. if still nothing, upsize drill till it's hollow.

if you have a piercing tip on a torch you can blow the pin out.

 

[Eyecatcher]

My parts manual (assy manual) show those pins to be bolts. These are pins with a cotter pin through the bottom. Was this an engineering change, or did someone swap something out? The pin isn't hard, trying to drive it out, it deformed pretty badly with the hammer. If I can figure how to block it up in the drill press, I may have to drill it out. My son is a welder/fabricator, he knows a lot more about metal than I do.
He'll be up Sunday, I'll let him have a crack at it.

 

[Soundguy]

They did use both pins and bolts.

Even with no drill press you can grab a 1/4 bit and start down the center, then grind the head flush. Many times drilling the relieves pressure.

One thing to try before all that. See if the pin will rotate with arm movement, or if not, with a cold chissle dug into a side and hammered n. If you can get it rotating it can come out easier. Lastly, sometimes due to a front end collision of the axle with something like a stump,the pin can bend and be hard to drive out. Usually have to cut ends off and drive out. Sometimes you can actually get the rad rod off the axle with a saws all, then go at it just with the axle