Indydirtfarmer
Platinum Member
Grab your tape measure and head to the cornfield! There is a movement to 20" rows nowdays, and there might be a few 18" planters, but I'd bet most of that corn is 20" to 30".
A boneheaded question: corn
- Thread starter Laminarman
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OP
Laminarman
Gold Member
The relative weightlessness of my front tires is mitigated by my loader!
newtothis
Member
Bought a sprayer a few weeks back and was naive enough to think you just put Roundup and water in it and go spray stuff you want dead!
And what's wrong with this approach? Been doin it for years with great results. <font color="blue"> </font>
I work with an engineer/former seed salesmen who was hurting my head with technical stuff such as;
rate of flow from nozzles (gave me a website to check them out)
rate of flow from pump unit
rate of flow at certain RPM's or speed
He made it sound like one would be nuts not to know all of these things so you could properly measure out how much liquid to mix up before applications. Cripe, I don't even know how much I'm going to put into food plots. I'll know when I'm done cuz there won't be anymore space to spray/plant!
Just yesterday this same guy put into perspective fertilizing. All my buddies seem to be too technical. In response to another buddies concerns about making sure I soil check and fertilize accordingly he stated something like "How many deer do think are going to feed on your property, your not a cash farmer".
He's right, just never thought that way. I just read that an acre of turnips produce 20,000 pounds of forage. For my, what, 20 deer max? I'm going to plant corn, soybeans, clover, sorgum and turnips at a minimum so I'm sure even if they don't all come in so hardy the critters will have plenty to eat!
I just proved to myself that I don't know squat last night. I borrowed a 2 bottom plow, pre-spraying, and it tore through the weeds better than I ever imagined with my turf tires. Where I figured I'd have to spray first it appears that I'll be able to spray after. Now I'm chompin at the bit to get home and plow!!
And what's wrong with this approach? Been doin it for years with great results. <font color="blue"> </font>
I work with an engineer/former seed salesmen who was hurting my head with technical stuff such as;
rate of flow from nozzles (gave me a website to check them out)
rate of flow from pump unit
rate of flow at certain RPM's or speed
He made it sound like one would be nuts not to know all of these things so you could properly measure out how much liquid to mix up before applications. Cripe, I don't even know how much I'm going to put into food plots. I'll know when I'm done cuz there won't be anymore space to spray/plant!
Just yesterday this same guy put into perspective fertilizing. All my buddies seem to be too technical. In response to another buddies concerns about making sure I soil check and fertilize accordingly he stated something like "How many deer do think are going to feed on your property, your not a cash farmer".
He's right, just never thought that way. I just read that an acre of turnips produce 20,000 pounds of forage. For my, what, 20 deer max? I'm going to plant corn, soybeans, clover, sorgum and turnips at a minimum so I'm sure even if they don't all come in so hardy the critters will have plenty to eat!
I just proved to myself that I don't know squat last night. I borrowed a 2 bottom plow, pre-spraying, and it tore through the weeds better than I ever imagined with my turf tires. Where I figured I'd have to spray first it appears that I'll be able to spray after. Now I'm chompin at the bit to get home and plow!!
OP
Laminarman
Gold Member
Newtothis
I enjoyed your post! I am planting food plots, but this thread about corn is for ME, the only one who really matters /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I have a friend who won't plant a plot until he's spent a month picking rocks, grooming, leveling, packing, calibrating...etc. For God's sake, it's deer food. He also won't accept the fact that some of these "designer" seeds are meant to be money makers, and may not be worth $150 per acre (in seed alone!). Good luck, and try to keep it in perspective.
Oh, as far as sprayers go...I carry a 5 gallon backpack sprayer for everything up to 2 acres and refill a couple times. Try that for a work out. And I measure the dilution this way: "glug..glug...glug...hmm that seems like about 16 oz." So far it kills everything, which is the goal.
I enjoyed your post! I am planting food plots, but this thread about corn is for ME, the only one who really matters /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I have a friend who won't plant a plot until he's spent a month picking rocks, grooming, leveling, packing, calibrating...etc. For God's sake, it's deer food. He also won't accept the fact that some of these "designer" seeds are meant to be money makers, and may not be worth $150 per acre (in seed alone!). Good luck, and try to keep it in perspective.
Oh, as far as sprayers go...I carry a 5 gallon backpack sprayer for everything up to 2 acres and refill a couple times. Try that for a work out. And I measure the dilution this way: "glug..glug...glug...hmm that seems like about 16 oz." So far it kills everything, which is the goal.
If your planter is mounted on a toolbar, you can mount it offset to one side behind your tractor. In other words, "pretend" you have a two-row planter by marking your toolbar where you'd mount two planters if you had them. Then mount your one-row planter on one of the marks and leave the other mark empty.
During your first planting run, the planter will plant one half of your "pretend" two-row planter. At the end of your first planting run, turn around and go back in the exact same tire tracks -- your one-row planter will now plant the other half of your "pretend" two-row planter. The results will be exactly the same as if you had used a 2-row planter -- the only difference will be that you've had to make two passes to do it.
If your rear tires are 18" wide with outside edges at 84", then the centerlines of your rear tires are 66 inches apart (84-18). You can have perfectly evenly spaced rows 33 inches apart with that setup. If you had a 2-row planter, you'd set up each planter to be 33/2 = 16.5 inches to the left or right of the tractor centerline (also works out to be 16.5 inches inside of the left and right rear tire centerline). For the one-row planter, of course, pick a side and mount it on the 16.5 inch mark.
Plant your first row, then turn around and return in the same tracks for the second row, as I described above. You'll now have two rows spaced 33 inches apart. For the third row, keep one rear tire in exactly the same track you've already created, with the other rear tire in fresh dirt (not yet planted). You'll be planting that third row exactly 33 inches from an existing row (your rows will always be exactly 16.5 inches from rear tire centerlines and 16.5 inches from the tractor centerline).
Just a suggestion from a fellow one-row planter owner.
Parker
During your first planting run, the planter will plant one half of your "pretend" two-row planter. At the end of your first planting run, turn around and go back in the exact same tire tracks -- your one-row planter will now plant the other half of your "pretend" two-row planter. The results will be exactly the same as if you had used a 2-row planter -- the only difference will be that you've had to make two passes to do it.
If your rear tires are 18" wide with outside edges at 84", then the centerlines of your rear tires are 66 inches apart (84-18). You can have perfectly evenly spaced rows 33 inches apart with that setup. If you had a 2-row planter, you'd set up each planter to be 33/2 = 16.5 inches to the left or right of the tractor centerline (also works out to be 16.5 inches inside of the left and right rear tire centerline). For the one-row planter, of course, pick a side and mount it on the 16.5 inch mark.
Plant your first row, then turn around and return in the same tracks for the second row, as I described above. You'll now have two rows spaced 33 inches apart. For the third row, keep one rear tire in exactly the same track you've already created, with the other rear tire in fresh dirt (not yet planted). You'll be planting that third row exactly 33 inches from an existing row (your rows will always be exactly 16.5 inches from rear tire centerlines and 16.5 inches from the tractor centerline).
Just a suggestion from a fellow one-row planter owner.
Parker
OP
Laminarman
Gold Member
PM1
Sometimes the obvious isn't so obvious until someone with experience tells you how to do it. I think you may have solved my problem. I'll see if I can offset it as you suggest on the toolbar. Somewhere in this post and in other searches I saw that the one row planter should be "centered" but obviously sticking to that dogma doesn't work. Duh. Thanks a lot and....well...thanks a lot!!
Sometimes the obvious isn't so obvious until someone with experience tells you how to do it. I think you may have solved my problem. I'll see if I can offset it as you suggest on the toolbar. Somewhere in this post and in other searches I saw that the one row planter should be "centered" but obviously sticking to that dogma doesn't work. Duh. Thanks a lot and....well...thanks a lot!!
newtothis
Member
Laminarman,
Sorry bout my long post, felt stupid after reading it (longwinded), just get excited reading about the planting stuff!
Put this one into my favorite threads because I've got no clue how to use my newly purchased 2 row planter (never thought about rows vs. tires) and this explains it all really well.
Glad to hear you think some folks are too technical, sets my mind at ease to know I don't need an advanced degree to do this work.
Sorry bout my long post, felt stupid after reading it (longwinded), just get excited reading about the planting stuff!
Put this one into my favorite threads because I've got no clue how to use my newly purchased 2 row planter (never thought about rows vs. tires) and this explains it all really well.
Glad to hear you think some folks are too technical, sets my mind at ease to know I don't need an advanced degree to do this work.
OP
Laminarman
Gold Member
Newtothis
It all came into glaring perspective last year when we planted several acres of Extreme, Whitetail Clover and Full Draw (total cost about $1,300 with lime), and the old farmer across the "way" had ALL the deer in his back field feeding on his five lush, beautiful acres of buckwheat (at .50 cents a pound) and sorghum ($25 bag). He plowed with a 50 yearl old tractor, disced with an old beat up six footer, and hand broadcast before a gentle rain. It was a valuable lesson. Son of a gun doesn't even hunt, just likes to plant. And does it better than all of us will at 80 years old.
It all came into glaring perspective last year when we planted several acres of Extreme, Whitetail Clover and Full Draw (total cost about $1,300 with lime), and the old farmer across the "way" had ALL the deer in his back field feeding on his five lush, beautiful acres of buckwheat (at .50 cents a pound) and sorghum ($25 bag). He plowed with a 50 yearl old tractor, disced with an old beat up six footer, and hand broadcast before a gentle rain. It was a valuable lesson. Son of a gun doesn't even hunt, just likes to plant. And does it better than all of us will at 80 years old.
newtothis
Member
As I'm also new to posting you need to tell me if I'm breaking etiquete by "hijacking" this thread. When I first found this site I thought it was kinda nuts, all these tractor people, so I just lurked in the shadows. Now I'm finding that it's the greatest thing ever!
You mentioned lime in your last post. As I've just gotten the implements and am pretty far behind schedule I didn't have a chance to soil test or do any fertilizing. Again, with 'keeping it simple' in mind how important is it to get those things done this year? If it's really important can I do it after planting?
A co-workder used to work for Monsanto and just called one of his buddies today to get me Roundup ready corn and soybeans that they have leftover. I'll be overflowing with seed now and don't know if I have to fertilize first.
Sorry if I'm being improper here, just that I consider these to be "boneheaded" questions that many of you more experienced folks will know answers to.
You mentioned lime in your last post. As I've just gotten the implements and am pretty far behind schedule I didn't have a chance to soil test or do any fertilizing. Again, with 'keeping it simple' in mind how important is it to get those things done this year? If it's really important can I do it after planting?
A co-workder used to work for Monsanto and just called one of his buddies today to get me Roundup ready corn and soybeans that they have leftover. I'll be overflowing with seed now and don't know if I have to fertilize first.
Sorry if I'm being improper here, just that I consider these to be "boneheaded" questions that many of you more experienced folks will know answers to.
OP
Laminarman
Gold Member
Hijack away! I'd not waste money planting expensive seed without proper preparation with a soil test and at least some decent fertilization/lime. But if you have free seed, I'd plant to get it done. Last year I spread some Buck Fall (Wildlife Buffett) on an acre with no lime/fertilizer then turned it under this spring. It did enrich the soil. Now I'm doing it right. My neighbor has spent a lot (a LOT) on Whitetail Clover and other seeds that didn't grow because of poor pH and fertility. So while I believe it's good to prepare the soil, I put it in perspective and plant common/local seeds too. It's just deer food. But if you're going to spend $150 a bag for Extreme, might as well spend $300 more to make sure it lasts five years or so. But remember your ongoing costs of weed control, mowing, liming. This is getting very expensive very quickly. And I blame all the evil people on TBN who got me hooked on tractors to begin with.
newtothis
Member
I'm getting more proficient with the plowing and accomplished twice as much last night than I had in the previous 2 combined. Got many more hours to go...
The first night I started out in creeper 1st and worked my way up to 4th. Last night I just went in 1 high. Can I try 2nd gear or will this put too much stress on the tractor or not plow properly? While it's going faster at this rate it'll take me soooo long to get done. I suspect patience is the key, just got a late start.
Regarding the lime/fertilizer, can I do this after all is disced up and I've planted the seed? I think he told me the corn seed is 108 days which means I need to get it into the ground ASAP. Figured I'd have to spray afterwards anyway and could try and accomplish the other chemicals as well. Gotta imagine that I'd be a bit peeved if I go throug all this work and the plants don't come in too well.
One last question...when it comes to soil testing I've read that you take samples from different locations and put it all into one plastic bag. I've got property on 2 different sides of a road and have noticed that even in the field that I'm plowing there is a big spot with lots of sand in one location and good looking black dirt in another. Is property and nutrients in the soil that iniversal in a given location to do just one test or should I have seperate tests for different locals?
Tried to attach an image of the property for perspective but it's too large.
The first night I started out in creeper 1st and worked my way up to 4th. Last night I just went in 1 high. Can I try 2nd gear or will this put too much stress on the tractor or not plow properly? While it's going faster at this rate it'll take me soooo long to get done. I suspect patience is the key, just got a late start.
Regarding the lime/fertilizer, can I do this after all is disced up and I've planted the seed? I think he told me the corn seed is 108 days which means I need to get it into the ground ASAP. Figured I'd have to spray afterwards anyway and could try and accomplish the other chemicals as well. Gotta imagine that I'd be a bit peeved if I go throug all this work and the plants don't come in too well.
One last question...when it comes to soil testing I've read that you take samples from different locations and put it all into one plastic bag. I've got property on 2 different sides of a road and have noticed that even in the field that I'm plowing there is a big spot with lots of sand in one location and good looking black dirt in another. Is property and nutrients in the soil that iniversal in a given location to do just one test or should I have seperate tests for different locals?
Tried to attach an image of the property for perspective but it's too large.
Indydirtfarmer
Platinum Member
Most plows will work well at speeds at/over 5MPH. If the tractor pulls it, and isn't laboring exccessively, go faster.....
If you have 2 distinctly different soil types, you can test them seperately. (Of course, you'll be paying for 2 seperate tests..)
If you have 2 distinctly different soil types, you can test them seperately. (Of course, you'll be paying for 2 seperate tests..)
Freds
Veteran Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I need to get it into the ground ASAP )</font>
Around here we stagger planting by a couple weeks to have corn through the season longer and that is what I was also advised in my post "planting corn 101". I planted my first batch Memorial Day and will plant the second this weekend and possibly a third in two more weeks.
You may have more time than you think...
Around here we stagger planting by a couple weeks to have corn through the season longer and that is what I was also advised in my post "planting corn 101". I planted my first batch Memorial Day and will plant the second this weekend and possibly a third in two more weeks.
You may have more time than you think...
newtothis
Member
Staggered planting, never thought about the benefits. Thanks for the good information. I'll be looking up the planting corn thread. I'll also try plowing in a stepped up gear, never looked at speed, just kept paying attention to the RPM's. My worst fear is doing something naughty to the tractor
Sounds like I've still got time to fertilize also.
Sounds like I've still got time to fertilize also.
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I think he told me the corn seed is 108 days which means I need to get it into the ground ASAP. )</font>
We just planted a little over a week ago - right when it was real hot - and it's been 10 to 15 degrees above normal ever since. I think the germination time was supposed to be 7 - 14 days. The soil was fairly moist when we planted and we watered it thoroughly about a day or two after planting. We had corn peaking through in 4 or 5 days after we put it in the ground - don't think I've ever seen it come up that fast before. As of yesterday the plants were 2" to 3" tall.
We broadcasted 100 lbs of 12-12-12 over the garden plot and tilled it in before we planted.
We just planted a little over a week ago - right when it was real hot - and it's been 10 to 15 degrees above normal ever since. I think the germination time was supposed to be 7 - 14 days. The soil was fairly moist when we planted and we watered it thoroughly about a day or two after planting. We had corn peaking through in 4 or 5 days after we put it in the ground - don't think I've ever seen it come up that fast before. As of yesterday the plants were 2" to 3" tall.
We broadcasted 100 lbs of 12-12-12 over the garden plot and tilled it in before we planted.
OP
Laminarman
Gold Member
When my corn comes up (with any luck..planted last night), should I spread fertilizer again when it's less than a foot tall?? I have poor soil, but did have it limed, and spread 200lbs of triple 14 on the one acre plot before planting. I don't have a "side dresser" or "cultivator" but still want to eat good, sweet corn that I planted myself. Also, I was unable to spread cow poop due to equipment constraints so somewhat concerned about the quality of the soil.
Indydirtfarmer
Platinum Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( When my corn comes up (with any luck..planted last night), should I spread fertilizer again when it's less than a foot tall?? I have poor soil, but did have it limed, and spread 200lbs of triple 14 on the one acre plot before planting. I don't have a "side dresser" or "cultivator" but still want to eat good, sweet corn that I planted myself. Also, I was unable to spread cow poop due to equipment constraints so somewhat concerned about the quality of the soil. )</font>
I've got about 800 lbs of 34-0-0, and maybe 400lbs of 12-12-12 left over from planting my 640 acres of "field corn". Plan is to cultivate the 15 (+ or -) acres of sweet corn next week-end. Before hitting it with the cultivator, I'll wear out the left-over fertilizer on the sweet corn patch.
By broadcasting it, probably 90% will end up falling in "no mans land" between the rows. That will help some, but have only limited effect. Still, it will improve the soil somewhat.
As far as spreading that manure...... Pitch forks aren't that expensive..... /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
I've got about 800 lbs of 34-0-0, and maybe 400lbs of 12-12-12 left over from planting my 640 acres of "field corn". Plan is to cultivate the 15 (+ or -) acres of sweet corn next week-end. Before hitting it with the cultivator, I'll wear out the left-over fertilizer on the sweet corn patch.
By broadcasting it, probably 90% will end up falling in "no mans land" between the rows. That will help some, but have only limited effect. Still, it will improve the soil somewhat.
As far as spreading that manure...... Pitch forks aren't that expensive..... /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
PineRidge
Super Member
The planter that we use puts 12-12-12 down with the seed. It's also important that the seed not come in contact with the fertilizer or the seed may not germinate.
Once it's about 6 inches tall we are going to lightly side-dress with Urea and throw a small amount of clover between the corn plants (already done). The Urea will feed the corn quickly since it is 47% nitrogen and the clover will help to reduce weeds and also fix additional nitrogen in the soil for the corn to use while it matures.
Once it's about 6 inches tall we are going to lightly side-dress with Urea and throw a small amount of clover between the corn plants (already done). The Urea will feed the corn quickly since it is 47% nitrogen and the clover will help to reduce weeds and also fix additional nitrogen in the soil for the corn to use while it matures.
OP
Laminarman
Gold Member
Since mine is only a one acre plot, does it make sense for me to just use a drop spreader between the rows with urea or a high nitrogen fertilizer? It shouldn't take me that long to do, even if doing by hand.
PineRidge
Super Member
I have been told that you only need a one inch wide strip of urea worked into the ground as a side dressing to corn. I'm thinking the rest would not only be a waste but feed the weeds also. Not saying that it wouldn't help the corn but urea needs to be worked into the soil to be effective anyway from what I can gather.
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