A Few Newbie Questions for GC2310 Operation

[Ed of all trades]

Greetings Ed,

Actually the manual says it in stronger language than mine. It says the rear wheels are to be completely stopped before stepping down on the lock engagement or severe damage can be done.

I've been wrong before and likely will again. Thanks for the correction. But I will still do it my way. I just know not to engage when I am spinning the wheels or one wheel. Ed

 

[porky69]

For the diff lock :Step down on the little wire bar under the brake pedal while stopped or pretty much stopped, and then slowly ease into the HST pedal , keeping pressure on the bar until it locks in(usually doesn't engage fully until there is a small amount of slippage by one wheel) and hold until you are clear of the area. Once clear release the bar pedal and you may have to steer in a 'S' path to get it to release.

Brake pedal is the big pedal on the left and yes it does take a bit of force to work after all it is just a mechanical brake. It may need adjusting depending on the number of hours.

 

[exohomestead]

Can you tell me more about "it is just a mechanical brake" ? Like a disk brake? Caliper brake?

Maybe I can adjust the threads under the deck to make a shorter throw before it bottoms out.

 

[exohomestead]

Porky69,

Regarding the differential lock, it sounds like to keep the lock engaged, I need to keep holding it down "until clear of the area" ? I guess I assumed I could lock the tires and then later somehow pull up on the lever to make it release.

~EH

 

[AxleHub]

Porky69,

Regarding the differential lock, it sounds like to keep the lock engaged, I need to keep holding it down "until clear of the area" ? I guess I assumed I could lock the tires and then later somehow pull up on the lever to make it release.

~EH

No . . The diff locks on tractors are not designed for constant use. They most beneficial uses are for straight ahead engagement with slippery conditions and no turns. Or on areas like driving in snow on your yard.

The point is . . Locking your rear end together means conditions where there is external "give" because there is no "give" internally. On dry black top or concrete you want to be in 2wd. On lawn or dirt or slippery hard surfaces you want to be in 4wd and in exceptional slippery conditions for limited needs and short distance mostly straight ahead applications you can usevdiff lock besides.

Also . . Diff lock can be used in 2wd or 4wd modes.

But . . recognize that this thread is not a replacement for a written massey manual lol. Remrmber some of us have never even seen a GC2310 and we are relying on our experience with gc2400 or gc1700 units.

How soon before that manual arrives?

Also . . Did you get any service history information when you bought your unit? How long ago was the hydro fluid or front differential or fuel filter or engine oil changed?

 

[Ed of all trades]

I agree with Axlehub, Get an owners manual and find a quiet place and sit down and read it. When you are done do it again. If you have any questions that the manual doesn't answer ask, but remember the manual is your friend. I put mine in a 3 ring binder and refer to it every time I have a question.
I also agree about the oil. If you don't know when it was changed, change it. That is cheep compared to problems. Ed

 

[irvingj]

Agree with Ed: on my 2310- I press down (takes a fair amount of pressure) while slowly moving to engage diff lock. Only use when necessary; it will eventually unlock itself after you've taken your foot off it. I rarely need it, in fact have only used it a few times when I was "stuck." It worked well in those cases. Otherwise I just use 4WD.

Haven't had to deal with poor brakes, but there have been a few instances of the brake lock letting go; moral, NEVER park on a slope, especially not with engine idling. If you have to stop to park it for a bit, first get it level or at least cross-slope, not pointed downhill.

Also, these older models have a different key set-up: there's no indicator light for them, but to activate glow plugs, turn key to the left (it's spring loaded). I generally have to hold mine for at least 10-15 seconds before the glow plugs begin to amount to much. Often I'll hold the key in the left position for almost a minute, maybe repeat if it's really cold and I haven't had my block heater plugged in long enough. When done with glow plugs, turn key to the right for the usual 3-position OFF-ON-START (spring-loaded) use.

Does yours have turf tires or other type? Mine has turfs, and they've worked out well.

And yes, read that manual --STUDY that manual-- when you get it. These are great little tractors!

 

[Johnny_B]

Haven't had to deal with poor brakes, but there have been a few instances of the brake lock letting go; moral, NEVER park on a slope, especially not with engine idling. If you have to stop to park it for a bit, first get it level or at least cross-slope, not pointed downhill.

Reference to Wacky...

 

[exohomestead]

No . . The diff locks on tractors are not designed for constant use. They most beneficial uses are for straight ahead engagement with slippery conditions and no turns. Or on areas like driving in snow on your yard.

...
How soon before that manual arrives?

Also . . Did you get any service history information when you bought your unit? How long ago was the hydro fluid or front differential or fuel filter or engine oil changed?

Not sure which part of my email your "No" applies to. I'm understanding that the differential lock is for temporary use only and stays in the wheel locked together mode only as long as I keep pressing on the lever/bar with my left foot.

Manuals were "drop shipped 7-10 days." Servicex2 (engine and tractor), Owner, Parts. 4 manuals shipped $90. I figured that was an okay price.

No service history. I'm planning to change filters and engine oil and hydraulic fluid as soon as I decide what's right to buy. For engine oil, I've run diesel Jettas on 5W-40 Rotella T fully synthetic and will probably go with that. The cold 5 weight rating is good for the jetta turbopump so maybe with the MF GC2310 I'll go with a 10W-40 since it has a block heater that works.

Looking in the front axle fill, it looks oily, but totally without standing fluid. I need to get something in their pronto.

 

[exohomestead]

Irvingj,

Yup. Manual is inbound. Yes, my ignition key is as you describe. Mine does not have turf tires. They are not R4, but the ribs are fatter than R1. Maybe it's what I've heard called "industrial" tires. The tires also came with studs installed and a cabin enclosure. I think it was used mostly for moving snow.

I'll play with the differential lock when I'm out on the dirt driving it.

BTW, what is that in the background of your member picture? I also am rebuilding a C-140 in the garage ...and try to keep the back hoe far away from the aluminum !