a new (to me) TC40a

[Big_Lug]

Jim, over the weekend I took the valve apart and the piston and cylinder. I found very minimal scarring inside the cylinder and the o-ring and backup ring looked fine, except the backup white plastic ring was split on one end. It looks as though, it was made this way from the factory. Is it supposed to be split so you can fit it on the piston or is supposed to be made all in one, without the split in it. The o-ring looked very good though. I only had a slow leak once the tractor was shut off, and the 3 point lever was left up with an implement on the 3 point hitch. I am going get my parts on Thursday and will post after I put it back together. Hope this fixes it.

 

[jinman]

Well, for the tiny leak you have, you wouldn't expect to see much. It might be a tiny scratch in the cylinder wall or o-ring. You'd probably have to look at the seal with a magnifier to even see anything out of the normal. That's why I always figure that a tiny leak in the 3PH is more of an irritation than a real problem.

 

[newt615]

I just did my lift cylinder overhaul over the last couple evenings, cylinder looked good but the o-ring was pointed (wore on one side with a flat spot) about half of the circumfrence of the o-ring. The back up ring had about a 1/8 seperation at the joint not at all like the mating bevels like the new one. it sat all night and the arms never dropped at all with the flow control valve open about 3 turns. it would drop in about a hour all by themselves with nothing attatched with the flow control valve closed. When the weather gets alitte nicer i will throw the tiller on and see if the arms "hiccup" like they used to, and drop in 5-10 mins after the tractor was shut down. not to bad of a job just alot to unhook and remove but all in all pretty easy, although time consuming. Just like most of the repairs we could cut the time in half if we had to do it again. I was going to check HST pressures but didn't have the BSPT to NPT adapter to match up to the test ports and my gauge setup but that will be a pretty easy check when i come across one that will withstand the high hydraulic pressure.
The unit ('04 TC45DA) has 1500 hrs on it.

 

[Big_Lug]

Hey All,
I tore apart my 3 point hydraulic cylinder and found that the seal and backup seal was in good shape, but the cylinder had tiny scratches in it. You could actually feel the ridges on the outer edges of the scratches. This was verified by the service manager at the dealership where I bought the seals from. He then honed it for me for free, with two different type of honers that fit on the end of an air powered drill. After I purchased new seals, I then put it all back together with the new seals and "Walla", with the boxblade on, I left the 3 point up for hours and it never creeped down. Before it would creep down and be on the ground in about 1.5-2.0 hours before. I bought the tractor with 680 hours on it and was told by the previous owner, all the fluids had been changed prior to me buying it . The service guy said the scratches were obviously from trash and not changing the fluid and filters enough. I hope this is a permanent fix, but if not I may have to change the liner for the cylinder one day, which is $265.00. For now it works, so I will see. The seals were only $26.00 for all of them. My fluid is clear on the dipstick, but will this tell me what the fluid is clear at the bottom of the reservoir or not? Do I need to drain the hyd. fluid to be able to tell if it is clean at the bottom of the resorvoir. I think I read somewhere on this site that the dipstick only shows you the top of the oil and the oil is usually clear on the top and the oil can be dirty on the bottom. Can someone explain please.

 

[jinman]

Hey Big; nice job!:thumbsup: Since your hydraulic reservoir is also your rear differential and rear transmission gearbox lube, that oil gets pretty well agitated while operating. Sure, some sediment may collect in lower spots, but I think it would tend to stay there or be filtered out by the hydraulic filter. The filter is on the suction side before the hydraulic pump. The lowest possible spot for the oil is the dropbox/gearbox where the front-wheel drive comes off. It has a drain plug that you could remove for a quick gush of fluid and then get the plug back into the threaded hole before draining all the fluid.

I suspect that your problem with the lift cylinder has been there from the factory assembly. The 50-hour service is supposed to change out filters so that trapped manufacturing debris is removed. If your hydraulic fluid was dirty enough to damage the lift cylinder, I'd hate to see what your hydraulic pump looks like. It would surely be a mess also. That's why I think your tractor had this damage from the beginning and was never caught under warranty as it should have been. Otherwise, you'd be replacing a hydraulic pump and the cylinder plus probably have a gummed up FEL joystick and scored FEL cylinders. Dirty oil would not just have an affect on an isolated spot. It would be everywhere.

 

[RoMad]

This thread has been very interesting and informative reading for me. I don't even have a New Holland, but if I ever upgrade to more HP from my little Kioti I will look at New Hollands just so I can get advice from Jinman :thumbsup:

 

[Big_Lug]

Jim,

Thanks for the explanation, it all makes since now. At one point I thought the same thing, that it might be a defect from assembly or something. The honing didn't totally smooth them out completely, but I think the new seals will last a few years though. It was a really easy fix. Once you have the seat assembly off, the assembly for the hyd.cylinder is easy to get to. I will take the plug off at the drive assemb. and see how clean the oil is. Jim, I have one more question for you, when I am using the loader and put it in a bind, like a real heavy load of dirt or something , I hear a loud whinning which I think is a relief valve in the loader section.It only happens on a real heavy load or curling the front bucket and putting it in a bind with alot of pressure.Hope I explained myself good enough. Is this something to be concerned with? Is there an adjustement or something I should fix that will make this stop? Thanks in advance and I am sorry for all the questions. By the way Romad, Jim and JC-Jetro are the best at explaining fixes and solutions. Thanks to you both.

 

[jinman]

It's just the relief valve in the diverter block under the right side platform. If you kept up the pressure and the relief valve ran constantly for a long time, it could heat up the oil and itself. An occasional or even regular opening of that valve is exactly what it is supposed to do to protect the system from overpressure. You only have to worry at some point if you don't hear it squealing.

 

[GRI]

well I took it to my friends shop and someone had been in there to fix the same thing and didnt replace the liner so the seals were leaking again.

he gave me a list of parts and I wanted to know if someone can tell me what they cost. and about how many labor hours it would take.
thx guys. I got a quote from another place for $790 and that seemed kind of high.

here are the part numbers.
1 SBA344790360 Liner

1 SBA344990280 Gasket

1 SBA344940150 Ring

1 SBA052110700 O-Ring

1 SBA052310750 O-Ring

1 SBA052110120 O-Ring

1 SBA052110070 O-Ring

1 SBA052109076 O-Ring

 

[jinman]

1 SBA344790360 Liner $228.00

1 SBA344990280 Gasket $4.66

1 SBA344940150 Ring $14.16

1 SBA052110700 O-Ring $5.92

1 SBA052310750 O-Ring $5.43

1 SBA052110120 O-Ring $2.90

1 SBA052110070 O-Ring $0.97

1 SBA052109076 O-Ring $2.04

The rest of the cost would be labor and on a TC40A, that's not nearly the labor of the deluxe model where the platform is in the way. I think your $790 estimate is a bit on the high side too.