A ubiquitous 'which trailer for me' thread: tilt deck over.

[mojoinco]

Folks, it is time to upgrade from my bumper pull ~16' flat bed trailer.

Considerations for the trailer include: 3/4 Duramax truck, Titan 2.5" hitch, 9000# of hay or tractor (~6-7k#, plus a couple of implements), load unload with forks on tractor. Occasionally load a car or other awkward load. Want to minimize heavy ramps and high break over angle loading issues.
That has me focusing on a tilt, 14k-15.xxx k tilt trailer. Can be bumper, but leaning towards a goose neck (there is a time for maneuverability). Since you loose so much GCW to the GVW, I think the 15.x rating is the better choice. Why tilt? Awkward loads and no ramps to deal with (back and toe saver). Oh, and single wheels (versus duals).

Why the weight limit? Avoiding the DOT & CDL requirement (ok, DOT could be an issue if my business goes that way; merely leaving a door open).

So, opening the door to critical comments, I would appreciate your thoughts on: configurations/options, core equipment, etc. I do have the Max Brake controller. Staying with electric brakes.

Oh, and brands/models/experiences. Local to Colorado, but will entertain other area dealers.

Thanks!

 

[Diamondpilot]

Sounds like you got it figured out. For me though I would avoid the GN. It adds 600# or so and you really don't need it. You have plenty of truck and a proper hitch to handle these loads with a bumper pull.

Personal experience. I had a F350 SRW diesel and wanted to be "A Real Trucker". I bought a 25' GN Deckover. I realize you are looking at a low boy. I never like the trailer I bought. It's load angles were terrible, the load height was such it created tons of wind drag, it was a pain getting on the deck to chain down, but most of all the loss of my bed when towing really hurt.

I sold the GN and got a 18' BP. I actually had more room with my bed back and all in all was a much more enjoyable overall towing experience.

Chris

 

[mojoinco]

Thanks Chris, that is the kind of comments I am looking for. I need longer than 20'. That's what my tractor with an implement on it measures. I figured the tongue would be a good place to set the loader bucket/forks on. Then have room behind it -- not sure what else would fit though (if the tractor is already loaded). Came across this one locally:

PJ Gooseneck 22ft DECKOVER TILT TRAILER

Not beholden to a brand, but it looks like the PJs are a pretty good brand.

 

[George2615]

I upgraded from a 20' 7K tilt bed a couple years ago. I tow with a Chevy crew cab, auto, factory brake controller, 2.5" receiver, 4x4, 6.0, and 4.10 gears. I bought a PJ 22' 14K full tilt model TF for low deck height, no ramps, extra length, LED lights, easy loading of low ground clearance vehicles, 82" between the fenders, and power up and down.
PJ Trailers | Powered Full Tilt
It give me a load capacity of just over 10K. I added a 9K winch, and remote control for the power tilt (so I can drive or winch a vehicle on and tilt the bed back down without getting out) and an extra chain box. My combo keeps me under the 26K. My tractor with a couple attachments and loaded tires weighs +or- 6K. and 22' (actual bed incl. tail is 23'9") is plenty long enough.

 

[Fallon]

I've got a 16' 14k lbs all steel tilting deck I really like. It's a Dun-Rite. From what I can tell they are a small trailer fab & repair shop in north Denver (means the trailer may have never ventured over a couple hours from where it was born in the dozen odd years since, only a couple in my posession) The only way 16' works for me though is dropping the bucket on the extremely long tongue. Even then I'm looking at a longer tilting deck. Either a 20", or maybe even 22". Extra distance to balance stuff is nice.

Without ballast up front tilting decks are intrinsically to light in tongue weight. You want 15% of the weight on the tongue. A tilting deck pivots & balances between the rear axle. Towing it home from the auction with my Tacoma was not so fun until I shoveled a couple hundred lbs of snow on the front. It behaved above 55 after that. The F250 doesn't have problems with it unloaded though.

Get one without a rim around the deck. The 4-6" rim on mine sucks when trying to load or unload.

 

[George2615]

Without ballast up front tilting decks are intrinsically to light in tongue weight. You want 15% of the weight on the tongue. A tilting deck pivots & balances between the rear axle. Towing it home from the auction with my Tacoma was not so fun until I shoveled a couple hundred lbs of snow on the front. It behaved above 55 after that. The F250 doesn't have problems with it unloaded though.

This is not the case with all tilt bed trailers. My PJ full tilt. axles are placed back approx. like the 60/40 rule. I have almost 1200# of tongue weight empty on a trailer that weighs about 3800#. Deck pivots behind the rear axles, not between.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Thanks Chris, that is the kind of comments I am looking for. I need longer than 20'. That's what my tractor with an implement on it measures. I figured the tongue would be a good place to set the loader bucket/forks on. Then have room behind it -- not sure what else would fit though (if the tractor is already loaded). Came across this one locally: PJ Gooseneck 22ft DECKOVER TILT TRAILER Not beholden to a brand, but it looks like the PJs are a pretty good brand.

I would not want to put a 20' tractor on a 20' trailer. There are tons of threads going on where a guy bought too small of a trailer and even with a HD truck the load can not be balanced.

I would get a 24' trailer. Buy once and buy right!

Chris

 

[Fallon]

This is not the case with all tilt bed trailers. My PJ full tilt. axles are placed back approx. like the 60/40 rule. I have almost 1200# of tongue weight empty on a trailer that weighs about 3800#. Deck pivots behind the rear axles, not between.

Fair enough. Mine is that way & most of what I've seen is similar. Big Tex seems to be designed the same as mine with a longer tongue & 4-8 foot non tilting deck up front. More area & more weight to properly weight the front & tongue even with a balanced tilting deck centered on the axle. I'm not opposed to that design & keep eyeing them as a possible replacement.

 

[George2615]

Fair enough. Mine is that way & most of what I've seen is similar. Big Tex seems to be designed the same as mine with a longer tongue & 4-8 foot non tilting deck up front. More area & more weight to properly weight the front & tongue even with a balanced tilting deck centered on the axle. I'm not opposed to that design & keep eyeing them as a possible replacement.

I have also seen many tilt beds that do pivot between the axles. I was just noting mine didn't.
In fact, my previous tilt bed pivot point was actually in the front. I didn't care for the fact it actually raised one axle off the ground when tilted but it also had plenty of tongue weight so it was never a problem.

 

[Fallon]

I have also seen many tilt beds that do pivot between the axles. I was just noting mine didn't.
In fact, my previous tilt bed pivot point was actually in the front. I didn't care for the fact it actually raised one axle off the ground when tilted but it also had plenty of tongue weight so it was never a problem.

Seen that style too & not impressed. It seems cheap. A lot of work to pump up that cylinder to tilt as opposed to a properly balanced deck. On mine I can walk to one end or the other & jump, then it will tilt appropriately. I rarely bother with that now when loading as the front wheels tilt it just fine on their own when they touch the end of the deck.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I'm not a fan of ones that pull a axle off. I have seen a couple with bent rear axles from overloading during driving stuff on and off.

Chris

 

[QRTRHRS]

Couple of questions here. I am thinking about a tilt deck in the future. Without actually looking, some models do seem long from the axles to the back. What are the merits or negatives of a full tilt versus a four foot fixed deck? Some are hydraulic tilt while some are shock dampened. Which one do current owners like, not like?

Years ago, I used to load equipment on a tilt deck tag along with no damping, no hydraulics, just a hinge pin. We woulod look for that sweet spot. Sometimes the landing was rough, sometimes not, lol!

 

[mojoinco]

The 20' includes fork and a flail mower. The 16' unit was just adequate. I didn't drive more than about 15 miles to the closest dealer with it. It's time to upgrade. I could balance it well enough, but just.

So, further research shows that there are ~15k rated trailers with a non-tilt front area, and a tilt area (gives just a bit more gcwr over the 14k units). That seems like the smart way to be able to load an extra implement, or even my small skid steer (2000#). Then load the big tractor. The full length tilt deck is not the way to go.

Current trailer is the full 102" at the fenders, thinking that is the way to go with the deck over. Tractor implements are up to 8', so they would have a little extra for tie downs, etc. Width is no concern.

Maneuverability is, in terms of the goose neck. I have adequate space for moving the 16' bumper pull around the shop area. A longer trailer could be a problem. And my wife would likely appreciate the GN when buying hay (we usually buy 3x3 to 4x4 bales). The deck over is as much her needs as it is mine -- flat wide deck that can be loaded and unloaded easily. I am a fan of the tile because there are no ramps needed, nor none that need to be flipped or pulled out.

I put feelers out to as many are wide dealers as I could find. We shall see what they have to say == and what reality says I am going to spend!

 

[Fallon]

Couple of questions here. I am thinking about a tilt deck in the future. Without actually looking, some models do seem long from the axles to the back. What are the merits or negatives of a full tilt versus a four foot fixed deck? Some are hydraulic tilt while some are shock dampened. Which one do current owners like, not like?

Years ago, I used to load equipment on a tilt deck tag along with no damping, no hydraulics, just a hinge pin. We woulod look for that sweet spot. Sometimes the landing was rough, sometimes not, lol!

Mine has nothing but a pivot & latch, suits me just fine. A hydraulic dampened would be nice, but not necessary from my experience, more cost & more to fail. If it needs hydraulics to tilt it probably isn't balanced well. I can see the need on a fully tilting deck that is longer in front than the back. A fixed front deck will be cheaper, possibly lighter & definitely less complex.

I'd love a 4-8' deck in front of the tilting deck on my 16'. The deck would give good extra tongue weight a pure tilting deck. My long tongue serves as a front deck for only my loader. Really wish I could put implements up there & that I had more room to balance properly and/or put implements.

As I already said, avoid any lips on the edges. they stop you from loading & unloading stuff easily.

If in doubt go for a pair of 7k axles for more capacity over 5k axles. Avoid 3.5k axles, they are to light for a tractor when you figure in the 2kish weight of the trailer itself.

 

[George2615]

Couple of questions here. I am thinking about a tilt deck in the future. Without actually looking, some models do seem long from the axles to the back. What are the merits or negatives of a full tilt versus a four foot fixed deck? Some are hydraulic tilt while some are shock dampened. Which one do current owners like, not like?

Years ago, I used to load equipment on a tilt deck tag along with no damping, no hydraulics, just a hinge pin. We woulod look for that sweet spot. Sometimes the landing was rough, sometimes not, lol!

See my post #6 pics. I have the PJ 22' TF full tilt model. Axle placement is back far enough for good tongue weight. Whether you go full tilt or have a 4' fixed section depends on what you want to use, load, and haul with the trailer. I have plenty of room in front of the first axle for side loading pallets or implements. I like the full tilt. Mine is power up and power down. Nothing wrong with saving a few bucks if a shock dampened tilt bed will work. I'm just not a fan of shock dampened trailers. My previous trailer was power up and gravity down. That was a hassle at times when I wanted the bed to tilt down but the load wasn't far enough forward to do. I prefer the low deck height rather than a deck over tilt bed. A deck over has its uses but I have never had the need to transport anything wider than 82". My deck is 22" high.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Good feedback on this thread. FWIW, I would not buy another gooseneck without tandem duals. To much empty weight with the single wheel limitation. That and I can use my box truck with a BP. I don't have any big equipment to deal with anymore and am trying to be gentle on the weak knees so the lower deck would be best for me as well. With many makes close by, I will have to take a closer look at the different deck configurations.

In spite of the bad reviews on Gatormade that have been made in the past, I am kind of intrigued by their Aardvark model. But then I have the advantage of being less than an hour from their plant so I can look one over before I commit.

 

[mojoinco]

That Aardvark has a strange looking tongue. Guess you will never drag that area of the trailer. Not sure that should be an issue anyhow.

These are good representations of what I am interested in. Brands (specs, attachment style) aside, they show the direction I am headed.

http://econolinetrailers.com/7-ton-gooseneck-deckover-partial-tilt-bg0725te/
Sure Trac |
Deckover - Split Tilt (6, 7, & 8 Ton Models)
PJ Trailers | HD Deckover Tilt

At least until my Chief Financial Officer gets involved (she is driving the need, so the limits will be reasonable).
New or used are fine by me.

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

In a thread I posted recently, I went through the exact same struggles. The biggest downside with the deckover tilts is the added weight.
Like the OP I was determined to stay out of the CDL hassle and the trade off on the deckover tilts was reduced capacity. Since my machine is pretty heavy to start I decided I just couldn't give up the capacity and opted for the low profile tilt.

I've had it for a little bit and overall I'm happy with it. But of course the first job I needed a trailer for (moving a shed) required a deckover:banghead:.
So I started to second guess my choice. I can see down the road I'll sell this one and get a GN deckover in the 30' range, should be the last trailer purchase I'll need for a long time.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...8-help-me-decide-deckover-low.html?highlight=

Matt

 

[mojoinco]

Thanks. Will be following up with local dealers. Found a used PJ within a reasonable distance -- have not yet pulled the trigger.

Been researching gooseneck hitches.
Like these two:
Cody Hitch
Gooseneck Trailer Hitch by Una-Goose

Neither require more than the main Round in hole in the bed (so nothing else to stick up and tear into a sheet good).
Also, NO rod under the fender. Simple. The Una-goose is ~$580 delivered, the Cody hitch (and no drill kit) were not listed.

 

[mojoinco]

In researching gooseneck heights, I see options for a tailer hitch/gooseneck frame.
In general, does a 3/4-1 ton 4wd pick up need a higher gooseneck hitch?