Above Ground Pool Install

   / Above Ground Pool Install #21  
Snapped a pic of mine right before dark, all that's left to do is to get me a "Skinny-dipping Only" sign. That last pic of TxDon's sums it all up, quality time with a shovel and wheelbarrow.
 

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   / Above Ground Pool Install #22  
I worked for a swimming pool company for better than twelve yeras and have had my fair share of putting in pools as well as repairs and what not. I am not going to try to discourage you from getting a pool but I can say that as long as I live there will be no pool for me. I am still traumatized from the pool business.

The biggest tips that I can give you are, as already stated, level level LEVEL. I would personally get my hands on a transit, duct tape a measuring tape to a pole (we had a tamper that was broken that we used as a foot so that we didn't have to hold it) and only put a pool on level unexcavated ground.

In my area, fine masonary sand was the bottom of choice. 6" cove going up the side of the pool. Some people used something called Poolcrete as a bottom but sand is a whole lot cheaper. Use patio stones under each upright (1' X 1'). After you have the bottom track and uprights all put together have a guy or two help you will the pool wall, they are heavy and if it is windy you will have a heck of a time handling it. After that's all put together and you're ready to drop the liner. put the liner in and if it is an overlap liner just make sure that it is even on hte outside of the wall the entire way around. Then take a shop-vac and put it in through the return hole in the pool wall and duct tape the skimmer hole shut. Turn on the shop vac and it will suck the liner to the wall and then you can adjust it so that there aren't any wrinkles. Fill with water and wait two days to get in it, if you are in it too early the sand will be soft and you will get footprints in the sand.
 
   / Above Ground Pool Install
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Thanks for all the great info so far.

Next question is there a type/brand that is prefered or that I should stay away from? I am hearing people like the new resin rails/styles type. How about filters. Earth, Sand, Cartridge...what should I go with.


Thanks,
 
   / Above Ground Pool Install #24  
I prefer sand filters because of cost. The cartridge filters are less maintenance but cost more to maintain because you are constantly changing the filters. The sand filters aren't that much maintenance but you do have to backflush the pool every so often. The worst part is moving the filter inside each year with a 150 pounds of sand it in, but the way I have my setup, I just pull up to it with the tractor and slide it in the bucket.
Just my two cents.
 
   / Above Ground Pool Install #25  
We had the sand filter and I can't think of anything with less maintenance; just turn the big valve and turn on the pump to backflush and it was plumbed so the backflush went straight into the sewer. Of course ours was an in ground vinyl liner and the pump and filter were never moved; just ran the pump to keep the water circulating if it was going to be freezing weather.
 
   / Above Ground Pool Install #26  
I didn't read thru all the posts, but I have been down the above ground pool route several times. I'm sure they have been mentioned but, Absolutely do not place your liner on the ground. Not only do things try to grow up throught it, but I had ground beetles that actually bit through one of my liners many times. Using the under water patch kits ain't fun. The last one I had, was installed with a concrete like base of 4" thick. It was great and due to it's texture it did not wear the liner. I can not remember the name of the stuff. Sand filter can not be beat. Just make sure you never swap the selector to backwash with the pump running. It will blow the filter head gasket. Not fun. If you ever do have to pull the selector valve assembly out, make sure you match mark it before removal. I put mine on out of sequence once. That was a pain in the rear.
 
   / Above Ground Pool Install #27  
Heres what I remember about filters:

Sand - by far the easiest and least costly. You may only have to change the sand every other year depending on pool conditions. However if you do have an algae problem the sand filter is the worst for cleaning it up. The sand filter catches the largest particles and lets the smaller ones slip by.

Earth a.k.a. - DE - The most efficient filter at catching fine particulates. The is the filtering system if you want the cleanest water. Also seems to be the most work and fraught with the most problems. The bonus to the system is that you change the filter medium when you backwash the filter. You start "almost fresh". This filter will clean up a pool the fastest. Most amount of maintenace. More costly to purchase and most costly to maintain.

Cartridge - many new advances in this area in the past years. The newer cartridge filters have better elements than ones in the past. Some systems can even use earth with the cartridge. Will pick up most particles but not as small as earth filters. More expensive to buy and maintain, the filter elements can get expensive although the new ones are a lot more durable than the older paper elements. Not too much down time if you have a spare element, as you clean one you put another in to run.

The biggest determining factor in whether or not you will have clear clean pool are water chemistry, proper sanitation, and proper filtration. If you have a choice buy a filter one size bigger than you need, it will work better and longer before cleanings are needed. The more that you run the filter the less chance for algae growth. Running the filter 24/7 is not unheard of when the weather is really hot around here.
 
   / Above Ground Pool Install #28  
Renob said:
Thanks for all the great info so far.

Next question is there a type/brand that is prefered or that I should stay away from? I am hearing people like the new resin rails/styles type. How about filters. Earth, Sand, Cartridge...what should I go with.


Thanks,


Oh yeah I forgot about the pool type. Resin are really nice if the cost is right for you. Resin pools parts are never going to rust, but may break down due to UV rays. If you are in this for the long haul I would go that way, however if this is going to be a passing phase (kids outgrowing the pool) I would stay with the cheaper galvanized pools.
 
   / Above Ground Pool Install #29  
An old feller once told me "Pools and boats - same two happiest days of your life:
The day you get one and the day you get rid of one!"

He also told me "Electricity is way cheaper than chemicals - get a good filter and run it all the time - 24 hours a day - it will save you money".

He was right... On both counts!

Tore this one out of our old house and then sold the house!
Picasa Web Albums - fishpick - Destruction o...

Then bought this house - with this pool!
Picasa Web Albums - fishpick - Pool

We move into the new house on the 24th of June... in the unpacking process - the top of the list is the Little Green Monster pump - to drain the pool - since it's already sold and slated for removal on June 30th!

Of course - that won't stop me from asking you if I can come over and swim in yours!
 
   / Above Ground Pool Install #30  
the neighbor down the street at the property has one barried to within about a foot of the top... surruounded by about a foot of gravel.

My neighbor at the house put one in, he put 2" ridgid foam insulation on under his with a very thin sprinkleing of sand to fill cracks etc. makes a great "floor"
 
   / Above Ground Pool Install #31  
Filters...I have a hot tub and was researching filters. I came across ECOsmart pool and spa systems. This is totally a chemical free system. It comes with a 5 year warranty and 60 day money back guarantee.

I have had it installed now for about 7 months. It been working great. Nothing really that I have to do. Check the water once a week and maybe flip a switch. I figure I will pay for the system in chemical savings in two years.

Check them out on the Internet.

Wally
 
   / Above Ground Pool Install #32  
archerynut said:
Heres what I remember about filters:

Sand - by far the easiest and least costly. You may only have to change the sand every other year depending on pool conditions. However if you do have an algae problem the sand filter is the worst for cleaning it up. The sand filter catches the largest particles and lets the smaller ones slip by.

Earth a.k.a. - DE - The most efficient filter at catching fine particulates. The is the filtering system if you want the cleanest water. Also seems to be the most work and fraught with the most problems. The bonus to the system is that you change the filter medium when you backwash the filter. You start "almost fresh". This filter will clean up a pool the fastest. Most amount of maintenace. More costly to purchase and most costly to maintain.

Cartridge - many new advances in this area in the past years. The newer cartridge filters have better elements than ones in the past. Some systems can even use earth with the cartridge. Will pick up most particles but not as small as earth filters. More expensive to buy and maintain, the filter elements can get expensive although the new ones are a lot more durable than the older paper elements. Not too much down time if you have a spare element, as you clean one you put another in to run.

The biggest determining factor in whether or not you will have clear clean pool are water chemistry, proper sanitation, and proper filtration. If you have a choice buy a filter one size bigger than you need, it will work better and longer before cleanings are needed. The more that you run the filter the less chance for algae growth. Running the filter 24/7 is not unheard of when the weather is really hot around here.

Very nice comparison of different filter types.
I personally went with the DE filter. To me the maintenance of the DE filter is much easier and cheaper. I'll buy 25 lbs of material and it will last 2 years. Total cost $18/2 years.
Here are the current prices for the systems I looked at when I replaced mine a few years ago.

DE Filter
$260 and DE media at $18.00/25lbs (lasts 2 years)

Sand Filter
$229 and replacement sand $90.00/100lbs

Cartridge Filter
$329 and replacement cartridge $89.00

With the DE filter, when the pressure raises 5lbs or so, shut the unit down and bump the handle on the filter and repeat in 2 weeks or so. Replace media when the pressure does not drop to pre-charge pressures (approx 3 times a year at 4lbs of media each time).

These are just my observations and someone elses may be different as I'm in Ohio and the season is 4 months long if we're lucky.
 
   / Above Ground Pool Install #34  
txdon said:

Yes I have one of those, similar anyway. Here in our neck of the woods, just make sure it's not being used during the night as it will actually lower the water temp when the sun goes down. It might be different in TX though, depending on your outside temps. I used a series of hoses and bypass valves so I could bypass it on cloudy days or at night.
The plastic is very thin though and you may have to close off a tube when/if it springs a leak.
I have 2 leaks in mine right now so I probably won't connect it this year. When the sun is shining brightly on it, it will send water 10-15 degrees warmer into the pool. Try to locate it for full sun exposure most of the day, angled like in the picture. Mine is vertical and does not do as good as it could.
 
   / Above Ground Pool Install #35  
Inspector507, I was wondering what to do with it during August, now I know - run the water through it at night to cool off the pool. Last year we turned off the cabin's electric hot water heater during the month of August. Thanks for the Idea!
 
   / Above Ground Pool Install #36  
KubotaSteve said:
I prefer sand filters because of cost. The cartridge filters are less maintenance but cost more to maintain because you are constantly changing the filters. The sand filters aren't that much maintenance but you do have to backflush the pool every so often. The worst part is moving the filter inside each year with a 150 pounds of sand it in, but the way I have my setup, I just pull up to it with the tractor and slide it in the bucket.
Just my two cents.

Why do you have to move the sand filter inside? I just drain mine and leave the drain plug out all winter, and move the valve to the winter position. It has lasted 10 years, so far.
 
   / Above Ground Pool Install #37  
Inspector507 said:
Sand Filter
$229 and replacement sand $90.00/100lbs

I just picked up #20 sand in 50 pound bags for $12.50 a bag at our local pool store on Friday.
 
   / Above Ground Pool Install #39  
i have had a pool for 28 years de filter and if you have the ph in the water good the water should be clear far from rocket science just be aware of pool companies, they love to sell you all kinds of stuff to put in your pool to keep it clear and dont work, all i do is shock it first time in the spring adjust the ph add algaecide and forget it get an automatic chlorine dispenser well worth the money add chlorine once a week and your good to go
 
   / Above Ground Pool Install #40  
i have had a pool for 28 years de filter and if you have the ph in the water good the water should be clear far from rocket science just be aware of pool companies, they love to sell you all kinds of stuff to put in your pool to keep it clear and dont work, all i do is shock it first time in the spring adjust the ph add algaecide and forget it get an automatic chlorine dispenser well worth the money add chlorine once a week and your good to go the cost for me to run my pool is abot 100 dollars a year
 

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