Adapting Truck Snow Plow to Quick Attach

[94BULLITT]

Whatever you say.
I have no problems, and I certainly don't plow at 1 MPH.

How heavy is your plow? Mine was 750lbs.

Agreed, I was less than impressed with the performance of the plow mounted on the loader and I tried two different mounting methods. I had a subframe mounted plow that worked great on a much smear tractor. I don't think I will ever make another loader mounted plow.

What mounting methods did you try on loader mounted plow?

 

[DK35vince]

Agreed, I was less than impressed with the performance of the plow mounted on the loader and I tried two different mounting methods. I had a subframe mounted plow that worked great on a much smear tractor. I don't think I will ever make another loader mounted plow.

I read about your issues with a loader mounted plow.
The only time I have that problem is when I carry the carry the rear of the blade to high and the front of the blade is angled down to far.
I have skid shoes on the A frame of my plow where it goes under the loader arms.
When I set my plow down in the rear where it rides on the skid shoes I simply do not have the problems with my loader mounted blade that you did.

 

[DK35vince]

How heavy is your plow? Mine was 750lbs.

I don't know what it weighs.
9' Western truck plow.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

Bullit, I tried a set back mounting method with arms that were dropped below the QA plate and stuck out rearward about 24" to mount the plow ears to. I also tried welding tabs directlyon the QA plate so the entire plow was in front.
This is a pic of the first attempt.

Vince, I think the plow shoes would have only been a band aid for the larger problem. If the loader stayed a constant height off the ground I think it would be fine, my driveway does not stay level in the least bit and requires almost constant adjust to keep the height right. The front tires would be off the ground or the plow frame would be to far above horizontal and the blade would trip. Believe me, I tried for a long time trying to get the operation down pat and I finally junked the whole idea because it just didn't work for me .

 

[bighammer]

I have just been working on the same kind of project.

I recently got rid of an old truck and thought the 8' Western Pro Plow would be a useful addition to my Kubota L4240. I bought a QA plate and after some head scratching and mock up, welded it on. I was browsing the forums here to figure the best route for hydraulics and noticed this thread.

I was hoping a loader remote kit would be reasonable, but OEM stuff is pricey. I have a couple less spendy options:

1. Mount the Western pump unit and plugs on the plow and add a couple push buttons to my joystick

2. A pair of hoses from rear remotes to FEL connectors, and another on the FEL arms.

Hoses sound quick and easy, but $100-$150 with the couplings. The buttons would be mostly free, (and slick as ****) but adds the reliability question mark of an old electric hydro unit and valve system.

 

[Wild Bill the 2nd]

Looks good. I would definitely spend the money and run lines from the rear remotes.
More $$ but I think you will be happier in the end. Plus it gets your tractor set up for a grapple or other front attachment that uses hydraulics.

I have no real progress to report. Working on sanding, blasting, painting the old plow

 

[bighammer]

I'd like to have mine blasted and painted (powder coated) but I want to make sure it works and there are no other bracing or modifications I need to make first. It would suck to get it all done, then go sparking and grinding on it again.

 

[94BULLITT]

Bullit, I tried a set back mounting method with arms that were dropped below the QA plate and stuck out rearward about 24" to mount the plow ears to. I also tried welding tabs directlyon the QA plate so the entire plow was in front.View attachment 445436
This is a pic of the first attempt.

Vince, I think the plow shoes would have only been a band aid for the larger problem. If the loader stayed a constant height off the ground I think it would be fine, my driveway does not stay level in the least bit and requires almost constant adjust to keep the height right. The front tires would be off the ground or the plow frame would be to far above horizontal and the blade would trip. Believe me, I tried for a long time trying to get the operation down pat and I finally junked the whole idea because it just didn't work for me .

I was curious if you ever hung the plow from a chain so it would float. I think that is the only was a FEL plow would work on gravel unless the ground had froze hard.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

I was curious if you ever hung the plow from a chain so it would float. I think that is the only was a FEL plow would work on gravel unless the ground had froze hard.

Both set ups were hung from a chain. When I connected the plow to the front of the QA plate, it followed the ground better, but it would trip so easily if the loader arms weren't low enough to the ground. The problem with them being so low is I have alot of grade changes and the arms would dig into the ground.

 

[bighammer]

I'm noticing as I look around at pictures of other versions, most all of the manufactured and home-made plows have the QA plate pretty much vertical. I tilted mine forward quite a bit because it seemed easier to weld the angled lower face of the QA plate to the frame, rather than just its lower edge. It also gives the curl a lot more travel to raise the blade. I'm hoping there's not some downside to it that I wasn't thinking of.