Adding a fuse to a Kubota fuse block or other options?

[ericm979]

cycleterminal.com is a good source for connectors, especially for Japanese vehicles.

 

[Fallon]

As I understand it, that is what he's doing. He's just looking for a clean way to get key switched power to trigger the relay.

Aaron Z

Yup, pretty much copied http://www.bodenzord.com/archives/579 & put it in the head liner. Have a 60@ relay & fuse block mounted up front. I spaced out the accessory plugs in back, but as I ran smaller wire to run the relay & want to keep it looking nice with all the fuses in one spot. Well 2 if you count the aux fuse box. The 5@ radio circuit fits the bill nicely & my 18 gauge wire wouldn't need another lower fuse.



Gonna pester my dealer's parts guy tomorrow when I call em about some other stuff. See if they have any answers on those connectors.

 

[RNeumann]

The relay only needs about 0.0160 amps or 160 milliamperes to "switch" or "excite". Most anything under the dash will work. The accepted way to do it is with one of these-
Quick Splices - 18-14 Gauge
The better way would be to use one of these-
Mini Low Profile Fuse Adapter

To find a switched wire poke around with a test light or volt meter. Just start poking until you find the fuse that does what you want. It should only take a few min to find.

 

[Fallon]

The relay only needs about 0.0160 amps or 160 milliamperes to "switch" or "excite". Most anything under the dash will work. The accepted way to do it is with one of these-
Quick Splices - 18-14 Gauge
The better way would be to use one of these-
Mini Low Profile Fuse Adapter

To find a switched wire poke around with a test light or volt meter. Just start poking until you find the fuse that does what you want. It should only take a few min to find.

I agree. I've also had 2 trailers wired using those connectors. Their reliability made me hate them. I have one of those sitting on the table next to my tractor just goading me to get-er-done & butcher the stock harness with it. Also the harness behind the fuse panel is really tight, bulky & stiff. I'm sure I could use the vampire tap if I really tried, but I'm not ready to give up on doing it right yet. I vampire tapped wiring on my old L3200 & always regretted it as sloppy.

I picked up a kit of nice Deutch connectors to do this build right & have sadly spent noticeably more on the wiring than I did on the 2 light bars. At least I'll have the nice crimpers & Deutch connector kit for future projects. Always hated using the cheap red/blue/red crimp connectors on anything that could be remotely weather exposed.

My relay up front has a 60@ fused hot stud and a 60@ fused relay switched stud. For now I can manually move the cable to the hot stud in a minute or 2 if I need lights. Picked up one of those add-a-fuse piggyback units as well. I don't think the stock fuse block cover will fit if it's on there. It might be a temporary solution while leaving the cover off over moving studs.

Feel free to call me **** retentive or OCD... I do.

 

[RNeumann]

Give one of those fuse taps a try. No splicing and a clean install. Most parts stores stock them.

 

[moship]

It seems that a number of people look for a way to take advantage of the open slots in the existing fuse box. The problem is there are no electrical terminals in the open slots. If the proper connector could be found it would make for a nice installation. Another forum member has tried to find a solution and has some good pictures to reference the terminal used in Kubota's fuse boxes. I've searched and looked through 1,000's of photos and websites, but have yet to find a US supplier of these terminals. Here's a link to the other thread if anyone cares to see some of the details of the fuse box. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/375016-bx25-fuse-box-wire-connectors.html

Where is the OP installing the auxiliary fuse box?

 

[RNeumann]

I think you guys aren't understanding how the product I linked to works. It piggybacks an existing fuse. No splicing, no mess and no hassle.
Simply test the fuses for one that does what you want (switched power), pull fuse, install this device, reinstall the fuse and off you go!
Maybe the video will help visualize-

QUICK TIP: How to install an add-a-circuit for your gauges - YouTube

The added switched circuit would then "switch" or "excite" the relay the OP wants to install. From there it would go into an aftermarket fuse panel and or directly to the devices he wants powered.

 

[RNeumann]

If you didn't want to add a fuse you can tap an existing fuse with one of these.
ATC & ATO Fuse Tap

These aren't as common locally. They work by attaching to the load side of the fuse. If you use the line side of the fuse the added circuit will not have fuse protection.

 

[rm4usall]

I think you guys aren't understanding how the product I linked to works. It piggybacks an existing fuse. No splicing, no mess and no hassle.
Simply test the fuses for one that does what you want (switched power), pull fuse, install this device, reinstall the fuse and off you go!

The added switched circuit would then "switch" or "excite" the relay the OP wants to install. From there it would go into an aftermarket fuse panel and or directly to the devices he wants powered.

OK, I don't know what the OP needs, but I'm glad I'm on TBN 'cause for me, that's the coolest thing. I'm going to use this to add a work light to my tractor

Thanks -Brian

 

[Juiced06GTO]

My fuse panel could easily be hooked to a relay to make the entire thing switched. I just didnt see the need, but it installs nice and clean and is weather resistant.