Adding a fuse to a Kubota fuse block or other options?

ericm979 · Feb 27, 2017

cycleterminal.com is a good source for connectors, especially for Japanese vehicles.

Fallon · Feb 28, 2017

aczlan said:
As I understand it, that is what he's doing. He's just looking for a clean way to get key switched power to trigger the relay.

Aaron Z

Yup, pretty much copied http://www.bodenzord.com/archives/579 & put it in the head liner. Have a 60@ relay & fuse block mounted up front. I spaced out the accessory plugs in back, but as I ran smaller wire to run the relay & want to keep it looking nice with all the fuses in one spot. Well 2 if you count the aux fuse box. The 5@ radio circuit fits the bill nicely & my 18 gauge wire wouldn't need another lower fuse.

Gonna pester my dealer's parts guy tomorrow when I call em about some other stuff. See if they have any answers on those connectors.

RNeumann · Feb 28, 2017

The relay only needs about 0.0160 amps or 160 milliamperes to "switch" or "excite". Most anything under the dash will work. The accepted way to do it is with one of these-
Quick Splices - 18-14 Gauge
The better way would be to use one of these-
Mini Low Profile Fuse Adapter

To find a switched wire poke around with a test light or volt meter. Just start poking until you find the fuse that does what you want. It should only take a few min to find.

Fallon · Feb 28, 2017

RNeumann said:
The relay only needs about 0.0160 amps or 160 milliamperes to "switch" or "excite". Most anything under the dash will work. The accepted way to do it is with one of these-
Quick Splices - 18-14 Gauge
The better way would be to use one of these-
Mini Low Profile Fuse Adapter

To find a switched wire poke around with a test light or volt meter. Just start poking until you find the fuse that does what you want. It should only take a few min to find.

I agree. I've also had 2 trailers wired using those connectors. Their reliability made me hate them. I have one of those sitting on the table next to my tractor just goading me to get-er-done & butcher the stock harness with it. Also the harness behind the fuse panel is really tight, bulky & stiff. I'm sure I could use the vampire tap if I really tried, but I'm not ready to give up on doing it right yet. I vampire tapped wiring on my old L3200 & always regretted it as sloppy.

I picked up a kit of nice Deutch connectors to do this build right & have sadly spent noticeably more on the wiring than I did on the 2 light bars. At least I'll have the nice crimpers & Deutch connector kit for future projects. Always hated using the cheap red/blue/red crimp connectors on anything that could be remotely weather exposed.

My relay up front has a 60@ fused hot stud and a 60@ fused relay switched stud. For now I can manually move the cable to the hot stud in a minute or 2 if I need lights. Picked up one of those add-a-fuse piggyback units as well. I don't think the stock fuse block cover will fit if it's on there. It might be a temporary solution while leaving the cover off over moving studs.

Feel free to call me **** retentive or OCD... I do.

RNeumann · Feb 28, 2017

Give one of those fuse taps a try. No splicing and a clean install. Most parts stores stock them.

moship · Feb 28, 2017

It seems that a number of people look for a way to take advantage of the open slots in the existing fuse box. The problem is there are no electrical terminals in the open slots. If the proper connector could be found it would make for a nice installation. Another forum member has tried to find a solution and has some good pictures to reference the terminal used in Kubota's fuse boxes. I've searched and looked through 1,000's of photos and websites, but have yet to find a US supplier of these terminals. Here's a link to the other thread if anyone cares to see some of the details of the fuse box. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/375016-bx25-fuse-box-wire-connectors.html

Where is the OP installing the auxiliary fuse box?

RNeumann · Feb 28, 2017

I think you guys aren't understanding how the product I linked to works. It piggybacks an existing fuse. No splicing, no mess and no hassle.
Simply test the fuses for one that does what you want (switched power), pull fuse, install this device, reinstall the fuse and off you go!
Maybe the video will help visualize-

QUICK TIP: How to install an add-a-circuit for your gauges - YouTube

The added switched circuit would then "switch" or "excite" the relay the OP wants to install. From there it would go into an aftermarket fuse panel and or directly to the devices he wants powered.

RNeumann · Feb 28, 2017

If you didn't want to add a fuse you can tap an existing fuse with one of these.
ATC & ATO Fuse Tap

These aren't as common locally. They work by attaching to the load side of the fuse. If you use the line side of the fuse the added circuit will not have fuse protection.

rm4usall · Feb 28, 2017

RNeumann said:
I think you guys aren't understanding how the product I linked to works. It piggybacks an existing fuse. No splicing, no mess and no hassle.
Simply test the fuses for one that does what you want (switched power), pull fuse, install this device, reinstall the fuse and off you go!

The added switched circuit would then "switch" or "excite" the relay the OP wants to install. From there it would go into an aftermarket fuse panel and or directly to the devices he wants powered.

OK, I don't know what the OP needs, but I'm glad I'm on TBN 'cause for me, that's the coolest thing.

I'm going to use this to add a work light to my tractor

Thanks -Brian

Juiced06GTO · Mar 1, 2017

My fuse panel could easily be hooked to a relay to make the entire thing switched. I just didnt see the need, but it installs nice and clean and is weather resistant.

leddyda · Feb 26, 2019

Juiced06GTO: I really like your fuse panel. Any issues with heat with the fuse panel being in the "engine compartment"?
I'm adding LED work lights (front & rear) and 3rd function valves on my Kubota L3400
I see this is an old thread, but good info
Thanks, David

Dave M7040 · Feb 26, 2019

For years tractors had fuses along side the engine.
Modern cars have the large fuses in the engine compartment.
In short, no problem

Dave M7040

Fallon · Feb 26, 2019

Dave M7040 said:
For years tractors had fuses along side the engine.
Modern cars have the large fuses in the engine compartment.
In short, no problem

Dave M7040

There are OEM fuses in my Grand an inch or 2 in front of the radiator. Generally anywhere you can put your hand without burning it will be fine for a fuse. That includes most engine compartments where things arent touching the block or exhaust.

I'm sure fuses blow earlier in a hot engine compartment that compared to a "cold" cab. But it's likely less than a 10% amp difference or so. Hotter means it would blow sooner & protect earlier. If you are within that 10% or whatever already, you already have a problem pulling to much juice.

Juiced06GTO · Feb 28, 2019

I have had no issues at all and running like that for two plus years. The only issue i had was catching my light bracket on a tree causing it to bend a little bit. No other issues though.

mpsmith60 · Aug 27, 2019

Juiced06GTO said:
My fuse panel could easily be hooked to a relay to make the entire thing switched. I just didnt see the need, but it installs nice and clean and is weather resistant.View attachment 500438

That looks like the exact same fuse panel I used! Here's a few pics of the install:

I have a video that shows the details of the installation with a link to a materials list:

This setup has really worked well for me.

Imold · Aug 28, 2019

This is what I used in my pickup, just pull the fuse and slide it on and put fuse back in, they make them for the glass fuse also.

ArmyAviatr · Jun 10, 2020

I realize this is an older thread but thought I would weigh in on what I found. I added two additional fuses to my BX2680 factory fuse box. The box has three empty slots, no connectors, no power. I purchased several different types of connectors before I found one that would work like the factory fuse terminals. Since Kubota likes to use soldered butt splices I didn't feel bad adding another soldered splice from the power wire coming off of the lights fuse. I have noticed that ebay links sometimes die so I will also add the description below. Also if anyone is interested I can sell you some connectors since I had to buy 25 of them to be able to use 4 to hook up my ROPS lights.