Adding a lean-to

rambler · Oct 9, 2003

Soundguy> Not trying to be obtuse here.. but the second thing to think about in engineering is cost vs risk ratio. ( first being safety and
fit to purpose. ) -Anyone- can design a correct structure.. or overdesign it. But sometimes we just need to design for the
'job at hand'. We don't need to build a 10k$ roof over a water-well pump.. when all it needs is something decorative...

Soundguy, you usually have good advise around here, but I don't understand this one.

You live in Florida. I live in Minnesota. I think you don't know much about snow loads!!!!! It can really ruin a person's day.

We have a north-facing roof on an old shed here that is pretty shallow a lot better than the original plan here, but still shallow. I've had to shovel the 3' of snow off it 8 times in the past 20 years. And it is supported with internal posts less than 16' apart - and real wood from 50-70 years ago, not that weak brittle knotty stuff they sell today. The problem is that the snow will melt some but not slide off. Then the next snow comes. And the next... If I leave it, it would collapse.

You just DON'T want to mess with snow load. You don't want to ignore it. Maybe in Florida that's fine. But not up in Ohio.

As to the water well pump house, you do realize how well that has to be built to withstand 33 degrees below F???? I've lived through that temprature. If the pump house freezes, what happens to my livestock? What happens to me? Who wants to work on the busted pipes at that temprature? All of a sudden, $10,000 doesn't look like it's so over-built....

--->Paul

yooperdave · Oct 9, 2003

Good points Paul.

Locality of the situation is critical.

Yooper Dave

Soundguy · Oct 13, 2003

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I think you don't know much about snow loads
)</font>

I know enough to be able to read a chart.

Again...my message specifically stated.. (-twice now-) that in my original message I wasn't taking into account specific geography.. i.e. being built to handle a standing load. etc.. I've said this ad-tedium.

I'll see ya'll in another thread.

Soundguy

Molerj · Oct 13, 2003

Today, I talked to a friend of mine that is a home builder. I got some good suggestions from him. One was to go with 2X10 rafters. Then I visited a farmer that has a lean to on his barn & another friend that has one also. Both lean-to's extend 16' with steel roofing. The first one has been there for about 30 yrs. It has about a 3' drop, maybe even less. It has 2X6 rafters on 24" centers & is facing the east. Next lean-to is also a farmer friend but my age. He just built it this summer. He has a lean-to on each side of his barn. One facing east & the other west. Both are made with 2x6 rafters on 24" centers & extend 16'. His drop is about 2'. So, now I am leaning to 2x8's on either 16 or 24 centers with a drop of 3'. I didn't have the camera with me or I would have snapped a few pics. Tomorrow sounds like a washout so it may take a few days. I guess ultimately it is going to come down to using all the information provided & build what I will feel comfortable with. Thanks for the help & feel free to continue the discussion. I will update as to my progress.

Molerj · Nov 10, 2003

I finally started on the lean-to last Tuesday. I have it all framed up & ready to start putting the steel roof on. I have a few pictures & will post them when I get a chance. (at work now).

Molerj · Nov 10, 2003

Here's one not so good pic.

Molerj · Nov 10, 2003

Another. I was planning on putting up the roofing tomorrow but it looks like rain for the next two days.

SPIKER · Nov 11, 2003

molerj:

nice looking place, the 2x8 should be good for our areas, mine west of you 70 miles sowest of clevelan, snow load is not bad for metal roofs as the actualy roof is not that heavy... mine is all wood with 2x6 on 16, with 7/16 roofing with clips between rafters. setting on dual 2x12 striners. felt & 30 yr shingles... only spanning 10' out from wall though. snow load wasn't calculated on mine, but it faces north, and had a lot of build up last year, about 12" + for a month almost as sun didn't reach it, high gambrel roof prevents sun from reaching the basic corner between the roof vertical & low pitch of the over hang.

anyhwo it looks like a nice place to play, I would remove one of the upper wondows and put in a slider then add a deck for shooting off of, and it don't matter if you have agun or not all you need is a beer and something to soot! lol

Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Molerj · Nov 11, 2003

Thanks Spiker, that's one heck of a nice looking barn you have there. The dump trailer looks darn good too. I envy the flat ground that you have.

gerard · Nov 12, 2003

One suggestion - It looks like you used a single joist running between your posts. Over time you'll likley get some sag in the middle (looks like 2x 8's?) Add another one on the inside of the post the whole length of the lean too, then add a few vertical pieces that will run between the two joists and attach to the rafter. Maybe every third one. Ties everything together and helps reduce the side force on the posts. (Apologies in advance if you planned on doing that and just haven't gotten that far yet!!!)