Adding Hydraulic Side Links
- Thread starter 3RRL
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3RRL
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- 55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284
Hey guys,
Thanks for all the great comments. And it's great to get so much interest. I really appreciate it.
The project sure was fun and the results prove to be beneficial. Customizing the tractor and implements has really made my tractoring a better experience, and made my tractor a "better" tractor. It is unbelievable how a little thing like being able to reposition your implement without having to get off the tractor can be. Sure, you can do it manually like many of us do everyday.(me...used to
) But now I spend more time accomplishing work and less time jumping in and out of the tractor making adjustments. I don't think I've ever gotten it perfect the first time so I'd have to do it several times.
You eliminate all the stress and strain to adjust those heavy turnbuckles, especially with a bucketful of dirt. And there have been plenty of times I really needed to make an adjustment but said "screw it" because I didn't want to hassle with it. Once I get used to adjusting the valve and pick the right speed, there's no excuse now for a perfect job.
One more thing brought up by ovrszd about using the cylinders like a grader does. There was a reason I chose those big cylinders with the Ø1-3/4" shafts and 8" stroke over the normal smaller ones with 4" stroke. I can position the upper lift arms on their splines so that the boxblade can be below ground level with cylinders fully extended and the upper arms all the way in the "up" position. I would have to rely on retracting the cylinders to lift it up. Then I'd have that "down force" that's missing when needed. That could be useful in some applications. My 55hp Kama is pretty big and with FEL, Hydraulic boxblade and 4 loaded tires it has to be pushing 7,000lbs.
I haven't set it that way because I need to check if it will work for my other implements. But if the cylinder stroke allows me enough vertical clearance, I'll do that...maybe for only an inch or two so as not to put too much stress on the 3pt casing. I know it can take it because I've bottomed out the boxblade many times with it raised up going over dips and gulleys and gotten an immediate box full. With the cylinders either completely or partially retracted, the 3pt would still be able to float down and I could still use the draft and position control, like normal use.
Thanks for all the great comments. And it's great to get so much interest. I really appreciate it.
The project sure was fun and the results prove to be beneficial. Customizing the tractor and implements has really made my tractoring a better experience, and made my tractor a "better" tractor. It is unbelievable how a little thing like being able to reposition your implement without having to get off the tractor can be. Sure, you can do it manually like many of us do everyday.(me...used to
) But now I spend more time accomplishing work and less time jumping in and out of the tractor making adjustments. I don't think I've ever gotten it perfect the first time so I'd have to do it several times. You eliminate all the stress and strain to adjust those heavy turnbuckles, especially with a bucketful of dirt. And there have been plenty of times I really needed to make an adjustment but said "screw it" because I didn't want to hassle with it. Once I get used to adjusting the valve and pick the right speed, there's no excuse now for a perfect job.
One more thing brought up by ovrszd about using the cylinders like a grader does. There was a reason I chose those big cylinders with the Ø1-3/4" shafts and 8" stroke over the normal smaller ones with 4" stroke. I can position the upper lift arms on their splines so that the boxblade can be below ground level with cylinders fully extended and the upper arms all the way in the "up" position. I would have to rely on retracting the cylinders to lift it up. Then I'd have that "down force" that's missing when needed.
That could be useful in some applications. My 55hp Kama is pretty big and with FEL, Hydraulic boxblade and 4 loaded tires it has to be pushing 7,000lbs.I haven't set it that way because I need to check if it will work for my other implements. But if the cylinder stroke allows me enough vertical clearance, I'll do that...maybe for only an inch or two so as not to put too much stress on the 3pt casing. I know it can take it because I've bottomed out the boxblade many times with it raised up going over dips and gulleys and gotten an immediate box full. With the cylinders either completely or partially retracted, the 3pt would still be able to float down and I could still use the draft and position control, like normal use.
firemanpat2910
Platinum Member
great job. When you get your tractor to the point you cant make room for any more mods, I will let you borrow mine to keep your skills up Im sure you will enjoy that tilting box blade.
Im sure you will enjoy that tilting box blade.
scott_vt
Super Member
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- Oct 5, 2004
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- 1986 MF 1040, 1942 Farmall A, 1949 Farmall Super A
Afternoon Rob,
I dont know how I missed this thread Now that Ive had a chance to read through it, really enjoyed the whole thread !
What a terrific job, as usual ! The thing that makes it real interesting is that you have a real need for a boxblade that can tilt on an angle for your drainage ditches.
I dont know Rob, I think your becoming a hydraulics expert
Great job, and keep em comin
I dont know how I missed this thread
Now that Ive had a chance to read through it, really enjoyed the whole thread !What a terrific job, as usual ! The thing that makes it real interesting is that you have a real need for a boxblade that can tilt on an angle for your drainage ditches.
I dont know Rob, I think your becoming a hydraulics expert
Great job, and keep em comin
OP
3RRL
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2005
- Messages
- 6,931
- Tractor
- 55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284
Pat,
LOL...You put out the fires at my house and I'll gladly do some mods on your tractor. I've always liked tinkering with stuff being a mold maker but just never had the time before.
Scotty,
I'm surprised you missed it too? Yeah, I use my box blade almost every time I go up to the property. Even more than the fel. I wanted the tilt on the tractor for another project I'll be starting that requires some maneuverability. So it's not just for he box blade. And I'm no hydraulic expert either. I learned everything here on TBN, mostly from MadReferee about how it works. I've always worked with cylinders though....just not the valving or tractors.
schmism,
My box blade is (was) a 7' Howse. I've modified it and beefed it up to make a hydraulic gear drive to raise and lower the scarifiers. It now weighs in at nearly 1,000lbs. In case you missed that thread, you can go here:
GEAR DRIVEN HYDRAULIC BOX BLADE Here's a picture of it now.
LOL...You put out the fires at my house and I'll gladly do some mods on your tractor. I've always liked tinkering with stuff being a mold maker but just never had the time before.
Scotty,
I'm surprised you missed it too? Yeah, I use my box blade almost every time I go up to the property. Even more than the fel. I wanted the tilt on the tractor for another project I'll be starting that requires some maneuverability. So it's not just for he box blade. And I'm no hydraulic expert either. I learned everything here on TBN, mostly from MadReferee about how it works. I've always worked with cylinders though....just not the valving or tractors.
schmism,
My box blade is (was) a 7' Howse. I've modified it and beefed it up to make a hydraulic gear drive to raise and lower the scarifiers. It now weighs in at nearly 1,000lbs. In case you missed that thread, you can go here:
GEAR DRIVEN HYDRAULIC BOX BLADE Here's a picture of it now.
