Adding Hydraulic Side Links

[3RRL]

Looks fantastic ! But I'd expect no less. I'll be content when i do my remote install if it comes out half as professional looking. Just curious...... do you have a crimper to make your own hydraulic hoses? Or did you actually measure, then order them over the phone and have them the correct length the first time? I've had hoses made in the $90 range (obviously much longer)... so it wouldn't take much mis measuring to waste alot of money.

Nice work Rob ! Now we need some action pictures.

Ductape my buddy....Hahaha action pictures yes. I forgot all about taking a video. The wife and I were Dove hunting in between this installation so we were anxious to get out in the field.

As far as the hoses, here's what I did. I measured (best I could) how long each hose run needed to be and wrote that down. I also made a note of what kind of fitting either end needed so that length and fitting end were for that hose only. Then I looked up either at Surplus Center or Agri-Supply for the least expensive hose that would work, being the correct length too. So on MOST of the connections, I went with Agri-Supply and figured on cutting off one end only to have the special fitting put on, and the other remaining the swivel male NPT. I got connector fittings to go from NPT to whatever and save a ton on making hoses up. I have a hydraulic store who then crimps on the other end for the JIC, Metric or SAE as needed. Many hoses I bought long enough (figured it out in advance) so that when I cut them on my abrasive wheel it made two hoses...each needing only one end put on, reducing waste.
Hope that helps.

 

[MadReferee]

The best way to measure for hoses is to get an old garden hose and use it as a template. It can be routed easily to find the final resting position and cut to the desired length. Measure the length and determine your end fittings. I always have my hoses made with swivel ends of the desired type. It makes installing them much easier.

Once you have the proper length and end fittings determined, call Discount Hydraulic Hose and order the hoses. They have supplied several of us here and give good service. Mention TBN when you talk to them as they are quite aware we exist.

Make sure that you get 2-wire hoses (aka R2). You will probably use either 1/4" or 3/8" hose. STAY AWAY FROM ANY 1-WIRE HOSE purchased from places like TSC, Surplus Center, and others. They are not as strong and will not last as long or take much abuse.

Good luck and have fun.

 

[3RRL]

Hi,
I know there was some concern about the clearance of the clevis ends on the hydraulic cylinders when severely tilted. I realized I had not posted any photos of the box blade mounted but only with the lower arms extended and retracted. This weekend I was able to take a few pictures so you could see the amount of tilt I can get on the box blade and no binding in the clevis mounts.

Here is the first one.

 

[3RRL]

The tilt is very important to me because during the rainy season, I am always cutting and cleaning the gutters on my dirt road. It is not surfaced and without proper gutter drainage, I get a lot of wash out ruts.

It tilts the same in both directions. Surprisingly, the big cylinders react faster than lowering or raising the 3 point. I purposely bought 8" travel cylinders so that I could press down the corner I am cutting with, if I want to get a deep gutter or groove. With the cylinder nearing full extension, I can actually pick up the rear tire of the tractor. Finding this out also makes me feel better about the clearance machining I did on the upper lift arms. They did not break in this test and I only intend to use this feature when the ground is soft and soaked.
Here is another photo of the tilt.

 

[3RRL]

Right now the ground is hard as a rock so I had to take it easy. I spent a few hours running up and down the round to "crown" the road and scrape some of the loose dirt and rocks off. This photo shows how I cut the gutters before the rains. Water finds the path of least resistance and the small gutter helps channel the run-off to the nearest culvert. As the road softens up, I will re- cut them as needed.

 

[3RRL]

One thing I found was very useful with the tilt cylinders. Instead of raising and lowering the 3pt to modify grading the road or a cut in the gutters, I found I could more easily...and with more control...use the hydraulic cylinders by extending or retracting them individually. They responded faster and more accurately. I set the position control on the 3pt so the box blade was several inches off the ground and then lowered each cylinder until I got the desired cut...either level or tilted. The only time I had to use the 3pt was to raise the box blade high.

Here is a video (as Ductape requested) showing the movements I can get with the box blade and the new side tilt cylinders. It may take a bit to download, but it's worth looking at. I can operate one valve lever at a time while looking over my shoulder no problem. They are the levers that used to control the old rear remote valve and are on the left floorboard.

So if you're wondering about why I bent over, it is because I tried to get them to move at the same time. My levers have so much "throw" I couldn't move them fully at the same time without doing that. But moving each lever separately does not require bending over. Otherwise it would be worthless.
Pretty cool huh?
Thanks,...

 

[jinman]

Very nice Rob! All you need is music for that waltz.

But can it slice-n-dice for just $19.95?

 

[Ductape]

Nice ! Its almost as though someone fifty years ago wanted every three point hitch to have two tilt cylinders....... why else would they have made it have so much movement??!! In my defense..... i really only asked for action photos..... like crowning your road, BUT..... video is always better !

Once again, great modification !

 

[texasjohn]

Soooo Sweeeetttt!!! I'm green with ENVY I want one, too!!!

Love the video!!!

I hope some day to do what you did... but there are about 1000 things keeping me from starting right now... tools, skill, understanding...

 

[dieselsmoke1]

Very nice. My complements to your ingenuity and execution.

 

[ovrszd]

One thing I found was very useful with the tilt cylinders. Instead of raising and lowering the 3pt to modify grading the road or a cut in the gutters, I found I could more easily...and with more control...use the hydraulic cylinders by extending or retracting them individually. They responded faster and more accurately. I set the position control on the 3pt so the box blade was several inches off the ground and then lowered each cylinder until I got the desired cut...either level or tilted. The only time I had to use the 3pt was to raise the box blade high.


Very good point 3RRL. Most people would miss that concept. What you describe is how a road grader works. Two independent systems control one blade. On my JD grader the two lift levers sit side by side. So close together that the knobs can touch. That allows me to run them with one hand, both knobs in my palm, then twist the wrist to cause action. Works great!!! Good job 3RRL!!!

 

[3RRL]

Hey guys,
Thanks for all the great comments. And it's great to get so much interest. I really appreciate it.

The project sure was fun and the results prove to be beneficial. Customizing the tractor and implements has really made my tractoring a better experience, and made my tractor a "better" tractor. It is unbelievable how a little thing like being able to reposition your implement without having to get off the tractor can be. Sure, you can do it manually like many of us do everyday.(me...used to ) But now I spend more time accomplishing work and less time jumping in and out of the tractor making adjustments. I don't think I've ever gotten it perfect the first time so I'd have to do it several times.

You eliminate all the stress and strain to adjust those heavy turnbuckles, especially with a bucketful of dirt. And there have been plenty of times I really needed to make an adjustment but said "screw it" because I didn't want to hassle with it. Once I get used to adjusting the valve and pick the right speed, there's no excuse now for a perfect job.

One more thing brought up by ovrszd about using the cylinders like a grader does. There was a reason I chose those big cylinders with the Ø1-3/4" shafts and 8" stroke over the normal smaller ones with 4" stroke. I can position the upper lift arms on their splines so that the boxblade can be below ground level with cylinders fully extended and the upper arms all the way in the "up" position. I would have to rely on retracting the cylinders to lift it up. Then I'd have that "down force" that's missing when needed. That could be useful in some applications. My 55hp Kama is pretty big and with FEL, Hydraulic boxblade and 4 loaded tires it has to be pushing 7,000lbs.

I haven't set it that way because I need to check if it will work for my other implements. But if the cylinder stroke allows me enough vertical clearance, I'll do that...maybe for only an inch or two so as not to put too much stress on the 3pt casing. I know it can take it because I've bottomed out the boxblade many times with it raised up going over dips and gulleys and gotten an immediate box full. With the cylinders either completely or partially retracted, the 3pt would still be able to float down and I could still use the draft and position control, like normal use.

 

[firemanpat2910]

great job. When you get your tractor to the point you cant make room for any more mods, I will let you borrow mine to keep your skills up Im sure you will enjoy that tilting box blade.

 

[scott_vt]

Afternoon Rob,
I dont know how I missed this thread Now that Ive had a chance to read through it, really enjoyed the whole thread !

What a terrific job, as usual ! The thing that makes it real interesting is that you have a real need for a boxblade that can tilt on an angle for your drainage ditches.

I dont know Rob, I think your becoming a hydraulics expert

Great job, and keep em comin

 

[schmism]

man ive got a 6' rear blade and it doesnt look NEARLY that big.

how big is your BB?!?!

 

[3RRL]

Pat,
LOL...You put out the fires at my house and I'll gladly do some mods on your tractor. I've always liked tinkering with stuff being a mold maker but just never had the time before.

Scotty,
I'm surprised you missed it too? Yeah, I use my box blade almost every time I go up to the property. Even more than the fel. I wanted the tilt on the tractor for another project I'll be starting that requires some maneuverability. So it's not just for he box blade. And I'm no hydraulic expert either. I learned everything here on TBN, mostly from MadReferee about how it works. I've always worked with cylinders though....just not the valving or tractors.

schmism,
My box blade is (was) a 7' Howse. I've modified it and beefed it up to make a hydraulic gear drive to raise and lower the scarifiers. It now weighs in at nearly 1,000lbs. In case you missed that thread, you can go here:
GEAR DRIVEN HYDRAULIC BOX BLADE Here's a picture of it now.