Adding Kubota rear remotes

[C4Ranch]

I'm adding triple remotes to mine now. Got the stacks and levers assembled, plan to install on tractor this weekend.

Post with questions as you get into it. It doesn't seem that difficult to me but will know more when I start taking the tractor apart.

You'll kinda have double the work because you have to first disassemble your existing 2 remotes to add the 3rd. I'm not familiar with how your levers are set up, are they an integrated setup or independent? If they're integrated like mine youll need to remove the spacer and add your 3rd lever and linkage to the valve.

You will also need to take apart your stack to add the 3rd valve. Mine have Orings in between so you might consider replacing those while you have all 3 apart.

Then it's just bolting back together. Pretty easy so far...

Ymmv

J

 

[sixdogs]

I don't have a trailer (or a large enough truck) and the closest dealer is 60 miles away, so before it even gets to the dealer it's $150 or more. That makes it worth an attempt. Besides I have all the confidence the experts here can guide me through it.

If I panic when I see the kits plan two - is to call a neighbor mechanic, plan three - call a cousin mechanic, plan four - call a Kubota mechanic who makes house calls, plan - five pay the $150 and remember the savings of not having to buy a larger trailer and truck, plan six - return the kits.

edit: looking at my plans I think I'll move plan four to plan two.

I have done these. Move plan four to plan one. Chalk expense up to part of the price of living.
You can do it yourself, however but the written word is never as good as being there in person with a couple of learning curves under your belt.

 

[txdon]

I'm adding triple remotes to mine now. Got the stacks and levers assembled, plan to install on tractor this weekend.

Post with questions as you get into it. It doesn't seem that difficult to me but will know more when I start taking the tractor apart.

You'll kinda have double the work because you have to first disassemble your existing 2 remotes to add the 3rd. I'm not familiar with how your levers are set up, are they an integrated setup or independent? If they're integrated like mine youll need to remove the spacer and add your 3rd lever and linkage to the valve.

You will also need to take apart your stack to add the 3rd valve. Mine have Orings in between so you might consider replacing those while you have all 3 apart.

Then it's just bolting back together. Pretty easy so far...

Ymmv

J

Please take pictures and post as you assemble, thanks! I know you had a different Kubota but do you have the same kits: Part# L8303 and L8307

 

[C4Ranch]

Please take pictures and post as you assemble, thanks! I know you had a different Kubota but do you have the same kits: Part# L8303 and L8307

My #s are a little different and more expensive unfortunately.
L8308 for the double acting valve and L8309 for the floaters. I've got 2 float and 1 DA.
L8348 for the 3rd lever.

Here is a pic of all 3 valves assembled along with the triple lever assembly.

 

[txdon]

Thanks for the pic. The one I'm ordering I believe looks like this, the lever/hose part only, not the valve part.
Kubota L30 Series Double Acting Remote Hydraulic Control Valve Assembly | eBay

The valve I'm ordering L8303 does not have a float. The valve that does have a float is L8304. I just don't see why I would need a float for my use. What are you using your floats for. I have not ordered yet and can order a float valve instead.

 

[C4Ranch]

I'm primarily using float for my top and side links when attached to ground engaging equipment like a disc but there are other uses.

On the disc or rotary cutter, without float and a rigid 3pt mount, if the tractor begins to drive down a slope, the disc will lift in the back and you'll get an irregular depth. Same principal if you go up a hill, as the tractor angles up, the 3pt creates unnecessary bind on the tractor.

Same basic principals if I float my side link. When pulling my box blade or disc it will follow a sloped curve.

My belief is this will allow a 3pt disc to act much like a pull behind disc (assuming its heavy enough) but give me the 3pt benefit of being able to lift it and do a 180 degree turn for my smaller food plots.

Other uses. If you're running a hydraulic motor, rather than an abrupt stop, you can pop it in float and it will slow down gradually.

I figured I would rather have the option than not when the basic function is the same as a DA with the option to float.

I went with 1 DA incase there is a need for me to have constant flow to a log splitter or something. Will need to buggie it open because unfortunately a DA with detent wasn't available as a factory option.

There may be others and would love to hear what everyone else uses it for.

 

[txdon]

The float valve (L8304) is only $39 more and it does seem like a good option for connecting to the top link when discing. So the float valves have that extension on the bottom for the detent float. Thanks.

 

[The Fred]

Get the float Don you will use it guaranteed.

Fred

 

[sixdogs]

I think I know how float works and have it on my loader. It works great.

How would it apply in the OP's use? What are the advantages or disadvantages?

 

[tprochaz]

Are these kits universal or tractor specific? I'd like to add a couple of rear remotes to my L4850 (and perhaps plumb one remote to the front for a bucket grapple)... where can I find the kit number or find the kit (I tried to google with no results)? Where are the levers mounted (on the fender)? Thanks in advance for informaiton ...