Adding Power Beyond, 3-spool hydraulic valve, and T-n-T to a JD 2520

   / Adding Power Beyond, 3-spool hydraulic valve, and T-n-T to a JD 2520 #121  
If he had done an air check on that valve he would be in a better position.

I think the reason that the pump exploded, was that although he had the PB valve, he put a plug in it and there was no place for the fluid to go.

The out port is blocked in neutral. PB port was plugged, therefore no path for the fluid.

If you plug the PB port, you make the valve a closed center valve.
 
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   / Adding Power Beyond, 3-spool hydraulic valve, and T-n-T to a JD 2520 #123  
I think TBN killed your link. It doesn't work..
 
   / Adding Power Beyond, 3-spool hydraulic valve, and T-n-T to a JD 2520 #124  
He also put the PB port to return and his loader wouldn't lower.
 
   / Adding Power Beyond, 3-spool hydraulic valve, and T-n-T to a JD 2520 #125  
According to my schematic for my open center w/pb port you have to install a special plug into the inside of the pb port in order for it to start to operate. SO you put the plug in it then the return port becomes a closed center valve and return for your functions on the spool and pb becomes the static return to tank line that must be directed to return or it'll dead head.

Hope that's easy to understand.

Surplus Center - 3 SPOOL 8 GPM PRINCE MB31BBB5C1 DA VALVE

If you look at the info they have a pdf of the instructions for this valve where they explain it.
 
   / Adding Power Beyond, 3-spool hydraulic valve, and T-n-T to a JD 2520 #126  
forget the power beyond on the 2520 setup. i did the same thing to a 2520. the 3 point is last to get fed but i hooked up a normal 2 spool open center valve inline ( just like a backhoe does) and it worked great.

That is how JD compact tractors work. They are not like some of the others that have add-on loader valves and what not with power beyond circuits.

I agree totally with kennyd, he knows what he is talking about. i'd like to see a blown up valve as well....

JJ have you ever looked at a jd hydraulic system? i see the same posts of yours time and time again confusing the heck out of people?

I'm not trying to be mean i'm just wondering....

Lets keep it simple for the guys asking the questions.....it will work fine without dumping the return to tank.
 
   / Adding Power Beyond, 3-spool hydraulic valve, and T-n-T to a JD 2520 #127  
forget the power beyond on the 2520 setup. i did the same thing to a 2520. the 3 point is last to get fed but i hooked up a normal 2 spool open center valve inline ( just like a backhoe does) and it worked great.

That is how JD compact tractors work. They are not like some of the others that have add-on loader valves and what not with power beyond circuits.

I agree totally with kennyd, he knows what he is talking about. i'd like to see a blown up valve as well....

JJ have you ever looked at a jd hydraulic system? i see the same posts of yours time and time again confusing the heck out of people?

I'm not trying to be mean i'm just wondering....

Lets keep it simple for the guys asking the questions.....it will work fine without dumping the return to tank.

In case you are still wondering,

With all respects to your age and wisdom, I think you are very wrong in your grasp of the situation.

Although something may have worked for you, and is working at the current time. Time will tell. However if you insist that people ignore the manufacturers data about their valves, you may experience or cause someone else to suffer a high pressure jet of fluid from a valve used incorrectly.

Apparently some of the JD tractors have 2 lines to the back and some have three.

If you install a JD lever 2 port,in/out valve for remote use, and use the return/out port as a flow through port subject to high pressure on their lever valve, mono-block, stacked valve. It may be spec-ed for high pressure return, and be safe.

I would say that the electric over hyd 2 port in/out valve can withstand the high pressure and would be more safe.

If your tractor has three lines to the back, one of the m is the pressure or supply, one of them is the high flow pass through, PB, and the other line is a return direct to tank/reservoir.

On lever type valves.

I have read the data on many valves, and most of them say the out port should go to tank.

You suggest using a two port in/out kind of valve before the 3pt, which can develop up to the relief pressure of 2000 to 2500 psi. Now,if you don't ever use the 3pt and never develop the pressure and cause the complete hyd circuit to be pressurized up to the relief pressure, then there is no back pressure on the valve in question.

Maybe if you can supply data on JD's valve, such as the return port pressure, then maybe I can believe your statements about their use.

I will say this again, if the manufacturer says to run that return port, capable of up to 500 psi back pressure, the return port should go to tank, then that is what you should do. You are no one else has the right to day different.

If you are using a PB remote valve, and you want 3pt, then you have to configure the valve PB to connect to the 3pt circuit. and find someway for the return flow to get to tank, via the fill cap if nothing else.

If you use a 2 port valve, and don't need 3pt, then the remote return can go to tank

All those people that you say that I have confused, I would like to hear from them, via email or PM, of even in this thread.

My suggestion to you and others would be, not try and exploit the use of a 2 port lever valve before the last valve.

A 2 port valve is normally used as the only valve or the last valve in the hyd system.

If you still think I am wrong, so be it, but I don't thing so.

Although I don't have a basket of blown up valves,
I would venture to say that if the manufacture recommended that the return port must go to tank, that someone has tested these valves.

I also do not have a junk yard of wrecked cars to know that if something is used incorrectly, bad things can and will happen at any time.
 
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   / Adding Power Beyond, 3-spool hydraulic valve, and T-n-T to a JD 2520 #128  
!!! Could it REALLY take all this stuff to get the job done ??? Actually, some of it is in a drawer yet, not in the picture.

Nice work
Looks like you ordered SAE6 ORB to 3/8" NPTF 90's for the remote supply and return hoses and reduced them down to 1/4" for the hose?
I was thinking that all of the lines were 3/8" and those would be also.
My 2320 list's a differen't plug. (15H558 Pipe Plug | 1/8in. )
I guess i'll order that from the dealer, it is most likely straight thread and not NPT.
I appreciate the link. I see now what to do and that I will have to remove the original svc and see how you made a bracket for the front quick connects.
I planned on ordering everything from surplus center.
I need to measure up hose lengths, I was going to use 3/8" hose.
your thought on that?

new tractor 499.JPGnew tractor 500.JPGnew tractor 514.JPGnew tractor 515.JPGnew tractor 517.JPGnew tractor 518.JPG
 
   / Adding Power Beyond, 3-spool hydraulic valve, and T-n-T to a JD 2520
  • Thread Starter
#129  
Yes, 3/8" is a better choice than the 1/4" I had at the time. Reduced flexibility is the only downside to the 3/8".
 
   / Adding Power Beyond, 3-spool hydraulic valve, and T-n-T to a JD 2520 #130  
Hi!
the valve you are using, is it for closed system or not? or have anything to say?

Regards Jarle from Norway:)
 

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