A few thoughts on wiring (disclaimer and warning, I am NOT a licensed electrician!!!!!!), so consider this a "wish list", not instructions.
Run all interior wires in conduit. Use 12 gauge wire instead of 14, it is only a few cents more and you may need the extra capacity "someday". Use 3/4" conduit instead of 1/2". If you need to run an extra wire or two, the 3/4" makes your life very much easier (ask me how I know).
If you have overhead lights, you can run the wires to and between them in PVC conduit. Don't glue the conduit sections together, just friction fit them. If or rather when you want to change things "later" it is much easier. They are high enough so you can't run into them, that's why we use metal conduit down lower where we CAN run into it. Use illuminated on/off switches so you can find the light switch in the dark easily.
LOTS of grounded outlets, I like them no more than eight feet apart. GFCI protected of course. A GFCI can protect multiple "downstream" outlets, so you don't need one at every box. Note that there is a new specification for GFCIs, some places still have the old type lying around and will sell them.
Any outlets near water (faucets, sinks, bathrooms) should all be GFCI.
Put the conduit and the outlets about 3 or 4 feet off the floor. That way "stuff" on the floor doesn't get in the way, and you have power at a convenient height for your workbenches.
Place extra wires for 220 volts, you will probably need them before long (compressor or welder). The 220 volt outlets should be close to the service entrance, wires that carry a lot of current should be kept short.
110 and 220 outlets on the outside - you might want to plug in a battery charger or welder outside the building. GFCI protect the 110 outlet inside a weathertight box. The 220 outlet should have a switch inside the building to turn it on or off, and it should be clearly labeled "220 Volts Outside" "ON" and "OFF". The outside 110 outlets can also have a "kill" switch inside the building, this one gets a switch with a red light in it that turns on when you switch the outlet on.
GROUND THE BUILDING. Think about lightning protection. Definitely get a utility grade surge protector at the power entrance or breaker panel. (I have one on the service entrance on the house and another on the breaker panel in the hangar.)
Main disconnect for power to the building. Usually a metal box with a lever. Nice to be able to kill the power to the entire structure in an instant if you have to.
Check your work. Use an outlet tester (three lights, plugs in) on EACH outlet to make sure it is wired correctly. Label the breakers in the breaker box, and check that they actually turn off the circuits they are supposed to.
Outside security lights, LED spots with photocells, automatically on at dusk, off at dawn.
All these goodies cost money, but if you go to Garvin Electric (no affiliation) and convince them you are a business customer (tax number helps, occupational license also works), they'll send you a big catalog and you can buy all this stuff wholesale. You still have to buy the conduit locally, it is too long to economically ship.
Remember, I am NOT an electrician, this information is ONLY for speculative consideration, and is not instructions on how to do it. When in doubt, refer to your local code (usually NEC) and have your work supervised by a licensed electrician or done by one.
And don't forget fire extinguishers. If you have any Kidde brand extinguishers (they were sold under over a hundred different names) with plastic handles, there is a recall and Kidde will replace them FREE no matter how old they are. Problem is that the plastic handles get brittle and break off, rendering the fire extinguisher useless. They'll swap them in for brand new ones with metal handles at NO COST. These are found in homes, businesses, cars, boats, trailers, everywhere. Google for more information on this. ("Kidde recall" or similar.)
Best Regards,
Mike/Florida
www.maxsteelbuildings.com
