Advice on electric golf carts

[SPYDERLK]

Hi Steve. Ill have to discover how to do this since I am computer challenged. However, I know I could talk you thru it. Most important - you must have a digital voltmeter as a test and learning aid. HF sells a cheapie that is plenty good. It is # 90899-2JPB. The suffix designates the special catalog price of $4.99, good til May 1. I have one just like it - 2yrs no problems.
Larry

 

[StevenPaul]

Hello Larry,
Thanks for the reply and the offer to help. I'm a HF junkie at times so I do have a couple of voltmeters, not the swiftest on using them, in fact, I've blown a couple due to "hmmmm, I wonder if this is how its supposed to go...kapow!" melted tips and blown voltmeter circuit boards...but ain't HF return policy the greatest. I can pretty much understand what you've written in previous post yet I'd feel a lot better if I had a visual. I'm really concerned about the using 2 batteries and the overall effect it will have on them. I've checked out reducers and converters and they are a bit pricey for my budget on this project. I've noticed what I think to be a couple of circuit breakers on it and I'm not sure what their used for. Would it help if I took some pictures of them so you can see the set up?

thanks again,
Steve

 

[SPYDERLK]

Steve, sounds like youre sometimes using the R or I scale to check for volts. Volt scales are the only ones you can use with abandon. Yes, post a picture of what youve got and Ill see what I can decipher.
Larry

 

[StevenPaul]

Ok Larry, here it goes with the pictures, the first few are of the items themselves and what I'm guessing they are, the last one is where everything is positioned. If you need more or better pictures let me know and I'll re-take some better ones.

thanks,
Steve

 

[SPYDERLK]

Im not sure what all those components are. Id really have to know the specific cart or be there to see exactly where power comes and goes to figure it out. I imagine they are all overcurrent protection - fuses.
The last picture is most useful. I am having trouble seeing both ends of the string. One is at ~5:00 and is a neg, right? Where is the other end? Hidden?
Larry

 

[StevenPaul]

here are a couple more picture that hopefully help, the wire you spotted is actually the postive start of the string. I've taken a picture from the other side. The other picture is of the foot switch(labeled wrong in the picture), solenoid, and the possible overprotection thingamajig. As embarrassing as it is, it was wired up somehow when I got it but I "unwired" a bunch of it and can't remember where that particular thing was wired too as with the other two items. The cart is running great but I've got a feeling that these other items were used for some kind of accessories or something. No accessories were working or completely hooked up when I got it. All it basically had was broken tail light and horn, no front light. I'm trying to figure out why 3 of them and why the different sizes, etc. Let me know if you need more info.

thanks again

 

[StevenPaul]

oh yeah, the positive start is going to #2 position on the F/R switch and the negative is going to the solenoid if that helps any.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Weird. Black is positive - counter convention on Batt color code hookup.
As good as u are with a camera u gotta remember to take pictures before disconnecting. The item u have circled looks like a Temperature actuated switch. is it attached to something that might get hot? Typically, the way carts work in my experience is that the IGN enables the throttle, the throttle enables the solenloid and the controller. As u push the pedal, the solenoid switch closes, connecting to the motor. as u push further the controller is signaled to feed power thru the solenoid to the motor in proportion to the amt of pedal push. The controller is a solid state device and could warm or even get hot. It is usually attached to a finned heat sink to keep it from overheating as u climb a hill. See if u can find some evidence of this rationale in your setup. - - We dont need to fool with any of this circuitry for the accessories.
First, determine what voltage the accessories u want are meant to operate on. i imagine this will be 12,24, or 36. Im guessing it will say on them somewhere. - - - actually 1st I think u will want V gauges. I got mine from Marlin P Jones. 800-6526733, item#5332ME. They are 2-1/8W x 1-7/8H 15V meters at $7 ea. I got 3 and hooked them up such that each measured the output of 2 of the 6 batts in the string. This is much better that 1 gauge measuring all, but not quite as good as individually measuring each batt. A good compromise if you cant afford room for six gauges-who can? . I recommend this first - then on to accessories. Let me know how u want to proceed.
larry

 

[StevenPaul]

I can't believe I just wrote a whole page of stuff, went to upload the diagram and it tells me I'm not logged in, sheeesh! Ok, so here we go again, condensed version of what I just wrote;

wires will be switched to right colors;
ordered the 3 gauges, thanks for the tip and website;
wiring diagram is attached to this post, this is how I wired everything;
the circuit breaker circled is what I tried with a new light switch and nothing happened;
the other two items aren't on the diagram, therefore I'm even more confused despite having it wired like the diagram;
I know very very little of 36V systems and I'm a little leary of blowin something up or destroying one or more of the batteries. I'd like to get it right the first time if at all possible.

I would like to start buying some accessories like a cheap set of front and rear lights, cheap radio/speakers, heater/fan, new horn, possibly a new wiring harness or build my own, etc. The cart is going to be used for just cartin' around our "bumpy" farm and hauling feed and stuff to the animals so I don't want to go all out on the accessories, just something the wife and I can enjoy with no worries. Any ideas on what kind or where I can find some of this things at a reasonable price?

I do have a charger also and it works fine too and I'm still kickin myself about not taking those pictures.

thanks,
Steve

 

[andrewj]

Eddie: I spent 2500 on a 04 PDS ez go cart. then someone gave me a 96 gas ez go, which I promptly repaired, and now runs like a champ.

get ez go. more replacement parts, more people have them, more aftermarket parts. steel frame so you can weld to it.

Get gas. I know you will scratchyour head at this - my wife loves her electric cart. no smell, quiet, smooth, powerful enough to tote her and all the kids around. But she forgets to charge it...forgets to make sure no acid is leaking out...she wants larger 22 inch tires but doesn't wantto shell out the money for a elec. motor capable of generating torque for large tires.

My gas cart pulls a utility trailor full of tools ALL THE TIME. NEVER been stuck in dry dirt. stuck in mud all the time, but with stock golf course tires, and no lift.

The lift makes sure you don't hang up on a stump or rock, or hit the side on a hill, just gets you good clearance.

these things can be modded easily to go WAY faster than you need to go...from 25 to 50 mph......I drive below 6 mph most of the time. I just creep along in the orchard, pulling the wagon.

So get Ez go, rethink the electric thing, and you will need a 6 inch lift for clearance and bigger tires for traction.

and visit buggiesunlimited.com and go to the forums to learn more than you want to know.

getting a golf cart cured my fever for a gator.