Advice on fencing type and installation

   / Advice on fencing type and installation
  • Thread Starter
#71  
I have priced out the 3 rail wood fence and the RAMM flex fencing.

The cost to do the fence myself is so much cheaper than the estimates I have received it's hard to believe. (estimates in earlier post) The figures below include the 3pt PHD and Auger which can be sold to reduce cost.

The high tensile wire fencing posted by Rustbucket is also an option but I don't expect it to be more expensive then the wood or RAMM fence so I did not price it out in detail.

If you see that I missed something please let me know.

EDIT - I could also change the spacing on the line posts to 12' and reduce the cost of the RAMM fencing.

Wood vs RAMM estimate.PNG
 
   / Advice on fencing type and installation #72  
The rail fence... I'm not sure you need 2x6x16 pt boards. Maybe someone else will answer but here they use 1x6s which would save you money.
 
   / Advice on fencing type and installation
  • Thread Starter
#73  
The rail fence... I'm not sure you need 2x6x16 pt boards. Maybe someone else will answer but here they use 1x6s which would save you money.

I think Eddie posted earlier and recommended 2x rails. I had the fence company prepare an estimate on 2x because we get a lot of rain and high humidity. 1x rails wouldn't hold up for long.
 
   / Advice on fencing type and installation #74  
Yes. Good to know. I was originally thinking 8'. Will have to lay this out and reconsider.

I went with a 12' on the front gate and at times it seems tight. the 16' double gate at the back is much more 'friendly' feeling. We fenced in our yard, and I really like the look of ours, it's the red topped 'no climb horse fence' from tractor supply. I did do 4 board 'rail' on each side of the gates, and have been considering going back and adding it along the road right of way, only I'd have to pull the t-posts and replace with wooden, and now that the fence is up, I don't know if I want to.

you definitely want the PHD for your tractor though, way easier than the 2 man gas motor powered augers. I use this for a LOT of things too, I have 6" 9" and 12" augers for it. great for putting in flowers, shrubbery, etc.... going to see if I can find a pic of the fence..... ok I found some pictures of the 'project'. I do need to get the wooden rails treated, it's been up 2 years now. We've actually got the driveway finished all the way through from the front road to the back road now. Oh, and we've put vinyl siding on the house since then too, LOL. Got a lot of good use out of the old Ford 850 before I bought the new LS XG3025

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   / Advice on fencing type and installation #75  
^^ Just my own preference I guess, but I would have run INSIDE the utility pole.
 
   / Advice on fencing type and installation #76  
just to throw out more options...you could also use all t posts and in the corners use the "Wedge Loc Corner & Inline Brace Set" I've used them in the past with good luck. You could use this with any type of fencing you decide on.
 
   / Advice on fencing type and installation
  • Thread Starter
#77  
I went with a 12' on the front gate and at times it seems tight. the 16' double gate at the back is much more 'friendly' feeling. We fenced in our yard, and I really like the look of ours, it's the red topped 'no climb horse fence' from tractor supply. I did do 4 board 'rail' on each side of the gates, and have been considering going back and adding it along the road right of way, only I'd have to pull the t-posts and replace with wooden, and now that the fence is up, I don't know if I want to.

you definitely want the PHD for your tractor though, way easier than the 2 man gas motor powered augers. I use this for a LOT of things too, I have 6" 9" and 12" augers for it. great for putting in flowers, shrubbery, etc.... going to see if I can find a pic of the fence..... ok I found some pictures of the 'project'. I do need to get the wooden rails treated, it's been up 2 years now. We've actually got the driveway finished all the way through from the front road to the back road now. Oh, and we've put vinyl siding on the house since then too, LOL. Got a lot of good use out of the old Ford 850 before I bought the new LS XG3025

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Looks great!

just to throw out more options...you could also use all t posts and in the corners use the "Wedge Loc Corner & Inline Brace Set" I've used them in the past with good luck. You could use this with any type of fencing you decide on.

Interesting -Wedge Loc.PNG
 
   / Advice on fencing type and installation #78  
I went with a 12' on the front gate and at times it seems tight. the 16' double gate at the back is much more 'friendly' feeling. We fenced in our yard, and I really like the look of ours, it's the red topped 'no climb horse fence' from tractor supply. I did do 4 board 'rail' on each side of the gates, and have been considering going back and adding it along the road right of way, only I'd have to pull the t-posts and replace with wooden, and now that the fence is up, I don't know if I want to.

you definitely want the PHD for your tractor though, way easier than the 2 man gas motor powered augers. I use this for a LOT of things too, I have 6" 9" and 12" augers for it. great for putting in flowers, shrubbery, etc.... going to see if I can find a pic of the fence..... ok I found some pictures of the 'project'. I do need to get the wooden rails treated, it's been up 2 years now. We've actually got the driveway finished all the way through from the front road to the back road now. Oh, and we've put vinyl siding on the house since then too, LOL. Got a lot of good use out of the old Ford 850 before I bought the new LS XG3025

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You did a really nice job. That's same wire fencing I'm putting up also.
 
   / Advice on fencing type and installation #79  
I think Eddie posted earlier and recommended 2x rails. I had the fence company prepare an estimate on 2x because we get a lot of rain and high humidity. 1x rails wouldn't hold up for long.

The problem with 1x material is that it sags over fairly short spans. If your posts are 8 feet apart, and you run 1x6 railings, I would think that a lot of them are going to start to sag fairly quickly. Even with 2x6 lumber, there is always a chance that you will get one or two that will start to sag on you over an 8 foot span. To help fight this, using boards that are 16 feet long and attached to three posts will improve your odds of remaining straight. There is no guarantee with modern pressure treated wood, so it's better to do all you can then take a chance.
 
   / Advice on fencing type and installation #80  
Yes, this is what I am leaning toward now. I went to TSC today and spoke with a very knowledgeable guy. PHD is reasonable enough.

Anyone know if RAMM Fencing is the same as Centaur Fencing? They look the same. In fact, I think some of the photos on both of their sites are the same but it seems like the RAMM fencing is more expensive.

I was never able to dig up enough info To get a definitive answer. We got ours from Kencove because of the price. You can use larger post spacing with the centaur and even more with high tensile or hotcote.

A typical tractor phd can be a real pain to use. Can you swing a front mount hyd. Unit? If you could get someone to drive them, IMO, you will be better off than buying/reselling anything

https://centaurhorsefence.com/conne...18/08/2018_CENTAUR_Planning_Guide_0818_LR.pdf
 
 
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