Advice on Grapple Hydaulics

[deanocraft]

So, some progress has been made... I was at our place where the tractor lives last weekend, so I was able to figure out the best place to mount the diverter valve. I don't have all my tools there, so I dismantled the support that holds the loader valve and brought it home to work on the mount. I am mounting it under and slightly rear of the existing valve.


I had some 3" wide 1/8" flat bar, so I went at it with a sawzall, file, and grinder. Then drill some holes and add a little black paint.



And mounted it on the support member I brought home to work on.



I still have questions in my head... I am new to this hydraulics game. I am pretty sure that the existing hoses on the curl circuit will reach the new diverter just fine. Hopefully, I can figure out any adaptors I need to buy. The holes in the diverter are 8SAE, but I do not know what the hose ends are. I am also trying to figure out how to mount the quick connect ends of the grapple lid hoses. I think I could mount some kind of a plate to the driver's side loader arm, (yes I know the tractor does not have a passenger side). Here is a picture...



My problem with that is where do I get such a mounting plate, and how to attach it? I do not weld... I can drill, but I am not sure if that is the best idea. I have seen posts on TBN by a guy who used some type of a disc with a stud extending off that he epoxied to clean metal on his tractor. Does anyone remember that guy's name or what that product is called?

 

[ericm979]

You could get a U-bolt that fits on the torque tube between the loader arms and make the bracket out of angle stock that bolts to the U bolt.

A hydraulic store can set you up with fittings and makes hoses for you. Bring in a hose off the loader so they can match the fitting.

Or you can use the document from DiscountHydraulicHose.com to determine what fittings you have. But sometimes it's not clear which it is. Then it helps to have an expert look at it. http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/thread_guide.pdf

 

[deanocraft]

Thank you Eric. That might work... I'll keep that in mind for my next visit to see my tractor. I can see that I would have to figure out how to stay away from those steel hydraulic lines with a u bolt, but it may be doable.

 

[shaeff]

I have seen posts on TBN by a guy who used some type of a disc with a stud extending off that he epoxied to clean metal on his tractor. Does anyone remember that guy's name or what that product is called?

User dragoneggs. The site he got them from is here:

ElectricalHub.com | Your Electrical Connection

I thought they were cool enough that I saved the info.

 

[deanocraft]

Excellent, Shaeff! That is just what I was looking for.

 

[shaeff]

Excellent, Shaeff! That is just what I was looking for.

:thumbsup:

 

[ericm979]

Orient the U bolt so a corner where a leg of the U and the flat plate meets is over the lines.

If you want to use adhesive, VHB or UHB tape on a bracket could have a larger surface area than the click bonds and be easier to apply. Either way make sure the bracket and paint is extra clean (I use acetone) and stick it where you want it as it's not coming off. Is it strong enough? People use it to stick solar panel brackets on the tops of camper vans. Adhesive might not hold if you forget to latch the SSQA and the grapple falls off the tractor only to be held up by the hydraulic lines. A guy here did that (by accident) and posted the video.

 

[Redlands Okie]

Grapples have also been know to come off when a limb pokes thru and moves the latching handle. Limbs poking thru are also hard on the radiators etc etc. keep that in mind on what grapple you buy, or how you modify it or on just how you operate using it.

 

[deanocraft]

Hey all you hydraulics guys... it has been a while since I updated this thread. I have been pretty busy and have finally gotten all the hoses hooked up and the grapple on the tractor. I don稚 have any leaks in my connections, so that makes me happy.

I am having a problem, though. I put the diverter valve on the loader curl circuit and now that I can test this thing, neither the curl/dump nor grapple open/close will work. It is as if there is an obstruction in the diverter. All other hydraulic functions on the tractor work fine. I needed to mow, so I ran my flail for a couple hours and everything else works as expected.

I purposely avoided the curl/dump and grapple functions while mowing. The only thing I noticed that I had not noticed before is that the hose going to the 3 pt got pretty hot over the 2 hr mow session. I could touch it, but it was definitely hot. I can稚 say for sure if that hose, (I assume it is the power beyond to the 3 pt), normally gets hot.

I will say that the diverter solonoid does not make a very loud clank noise when I activate it to power the grapple. I expected to hear a more powerful clank, but I don稚 have any experience with hydraulics or diverter valves... the sound is more like a gentle click. I wonder if this is normal or if this may be my problem. It just seems like there is something wrong in the diverter, as neither function works through it.

Any guidance on what to check first would be greatly appreciated!

 

[jabelding]

Does your loader valve have regen on the dump curl? If it does it might not work with a diverter setup.